Wood siding is popular with homeowners because of its low initial cost for materials and installation. However, many consumers end up being disappointed at how quickly this material degrades. This often happens because the siding was not installed with an eye toward length of service. A wood exterior can actually last for several decades if it is properly installed and maintained.

There are several things you can do during the installation process to significantly increase the lifespan of your wood façade. Keeping moisture out is the #1 challenge. Prime and paint each piece of siding (including the cut edges) before nailing them to your house. This ensures the full surface is more resistant to water - not just the part you can see.

Ongoing Maintenance

Check caulking, flashing, and nailed areas a couple of times per year for signs of deterioration. Basically, any area where bare wood might exposed to moisture or insects can pose a problem. Keep tree branches pruned away from the sides of your house as well as the roof. Even small twigs can tear up wood siding when the wind blows them against your home.

Unlike vinyl, wood siding has to be repainted regularly. That could mean every 4-5 years depending on how much wear and tear the weather causes in your area. Choose a high quality exterior paint that is designed for the type of wood you have installed. Clean your siding and allow it to dry before you apply new paint. If the former coat is glossy, use sandpaper to add some texture. This will help the fresh coat of paint adhere properly.

Most people have experienced trouble when opening up their windows due to swollen wood or painted channels.  Or, their windows won’t stay open due to a broken sash cord or chain. Regular maintenance is very important to avoid these problems.  Here is how to adjust your windows:

1. For Spring Loaded Windows

Make sure you have an adjustment screw on the track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and open and closes smoothly.

2. Spring Lift Windows

These windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded lift rod that’s inside a metal tube.  To adjust these type of windows unscrew the top end of the tube from the jamb. then twist the tube to change the spring tension: if you turn it clockwise you will get more lifting power; and counterclockwise for less.  Keep a good strong grip on the tube so you don’t unwind it.

Hope this helps with you fussy windows…

Galley kitchens are a common feature in many smaller homes. This type of layout is designed to put everything within easy reach and take up as little square footage as possible. However, a narrow kitchen is the bane of existence for couples who love to cook together. Even with the recommended 48” walkway for a two person work area, you will find yourself bumping into one another. If you are holding a knife or a pot of boiling water when this happens, it can spell the end of a happy relationship.

Is there is an adjoining wall separating your kitchen from a living area? Take it down - assuming it isn’t a load bearing wall. Relocate the appliances to one side of the new, larger area to form an L shaped layout. Or, if your dining room is larger than your kitchen, simply swap rooms. Both of these remodeling options will require rewiring and plumbing updates, but you can incorporate your existing appliances into the new layout.

Upgrading Offers Decent ROI

Sometimes, homeowners use a kitchen remodel (including new, energy efficient appliances) as a way to increase the resale value of their home. According to the 2008-2009 Cost versus Value report, most of the cost of this type of major remodeling job can be recaptured during a sale. Of course, this varies depending on the condition of the real estate market in your area. Whatever your reasons for upgrading your kitchen, you can’t go wrong with more space and better appliances.

Slight cuts or scratches in your vinyl flooring can be easily patched with liquid seam sealers. Otherwise, the damaged area may need to be patched with replacement tile.

Measure the length and width of the damaged area [square]. Place the patch over this area matching the pattern. Now, lay duct tape around the edges of this patch square, on top of the damaged area. When the patch is securely in place, use a utility knife to cut around the edges of the repair patch and through the old damaged tile. A carpenter’s square serves as a cutting guide.

When you have made the cuts, remove the duct tape, lift off the patch you will use for to replace the damaged area. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the tile and a putty knife to lift the damaged tile. Use a chisel, putty knife,  Goo Gone and a sharp floor scraper to remove the remaining adhesive from the floor underneath.

Apply adhesive to the back of the replacement patch. A notched trowel [1/8" V-shaped notches] should be used to spread the adhesive. Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle as you spread the adhesive. Lay one edge to the floor and lower the patch into place. Starting at the center and working out toward the edges, use a j-roller and pressure to avoid air bubbles and get a solid bond. Apply a thin bead of seam sealer to the outer edges of the patch. Avoid foot traffic across this area for 24 hours.