The most common home plumbing problem is a leaky faucet. The leaks happen when the washers, O-rings, or seals inside the faucet get dirty or worn out. It’s not hard to fix a leak, but the techniques vary depending on the type of faucet you have. Determine the faucet design and the  replacement parts before you begin your work.

There are four basic designs: ball-type, cartridge, disc, and compression. Many can be identified easily just by their outer appearance, but there are some that you have to take apart before it can recognized.

Many double-handled faucets use the compression design. From time to time you have to replace the washers or seals in the compression faucets.  These are very easy to make, and the replacement parts are not expensive.

The ball-type, cartridge, and disc faucets are known as washerless faucets.  Many of the washerless faucets have a single handle, but some do have two handles.  These faucets will make less trouble for you than the compression faucets will, and they are designed for quick repair.

Make sure the replacement parts match the original parts before you install them. The replacement parts for the more popular washerless faucets are identified by their brand name and model number. Bring the worn parts with you when you go to the store to get ones. It will help you identify the parts you need.

Expanding your home can be an expensive proposition. Custom built sunrooms are generally priced from 10k to 70k dollars. However, this type of home addition increases the value of your property and provides an area where you can conveniently entertain guests. The outdoor experience of this indoor space creates a feeling of openness to the natural world around you. Folks who have a sunroom built usually believe it was worth the investment.

The DIY Option

There is, of course, an alternative to having a sunroom professionally built. A DIY kit allows you to pick from several different designs and cuts the cost substantially. Kits for sunrooms range in price from 2-20 grand depending on the size and materials you select. For best results, choose a simple patio or porch enclosure. That’s as much complexity as the average DIY homeowner can handle.

The instruction manual and/or video included with your kit will be designed to make the building process as straightforward as possible. However, there are always some safety concerns when untrained friends or relatives help you with a construction project. In addition, you may still need licenses or building permits before getting started. Each community has its own building codes that require strict adherence. A local installer can help you navigate the permitting system and ensure proper safety protocols are followed throughout the project.

Additional Concerns

Prefab sunrooms aren’t guaranteed to fit perfectly into the space you have selected. If you go with the cheapest materials, you can also expect a great deal of energy loss. There could be drainage problems or leaks that need to be fixed by a professional. However, if you are handy with home improvement projects, you may enjoy both the initial installation and ongoing upkeep involved in creating your own sunroom.

This is a task that is easily handled.  You only need a few supplies and a little bit of time.  If you have any small holes in your walls that have been bothering you-here’s how you handle them:

Get yourself over to the home improvement store in your neighborhood, pick up a 1″ knife, and a 3′ putty knife.  You will also need some lightweight spackle.  If you have textured walls you may want to get some spray texture as well.This is what I used the last time I did this project.  You will need a sanding block, I prefer to use “fine” grade. You may also want to get a mouth and nose covering of some sort to avoid the dust you’ll create when sanding.

When you get home be sure to move any valueables out of the way, you won’t want to get them covered in the dust from the spackle nor would you want to drop any spackle on them. 

Begin by sanding down the area around the hole to make it as close to smooth as possible as well as removing any chipped or peeling paint.

Put a generous amount of the spackle on the big putty knife, using the small knife to get it out of the bucket.  I like to drip just a tad of water onto the pile of putty, mix it in with the small knife.  Once you have a nice soft paste apply that to the area around the hole and get some in the hole as well, the types of holes I am talking about are no bigger than a quarter, for example, maybe the door knob slammed into the wall in the bathroom and created an indent and a partial hole, well this is a place that you would be able to use this technique.

Once you have coated the area make sure and smooth it out using the large putty knife.  Once smoothed, allow to dry, I like to wait overnite but usually you can start sanding in as little as a couple of hours, just follow the guidelines on the spackle that you purchased. 

Once dry, sand the spackled area down as smooth as possible then re-apply another coat of the spackle, allow this coat to dry.

Apply the spray texture as appropriate, most residential walls that use texture use a “knock down” method of application.  What this means is that once you have sprayed the texture on the wall you will use your large putty knife to “knock down” the texture by lightly running the knife’s flat edge over the texture.  I suggest you practice this outside on a piece of old cardboard to get the right texture pattern down that will match your walls.

Now, once you have double coated and textured the wall, you are ready to paint it, get the paint matched to your current color and cover the entire area, I would suggest two coats of paint as well, now voila! You’re finished!

It’s a costly decision to make when it comes to new carpet. There are many styles to choose from, Berber, Loop-Pile, and Frieze just to name a few. Not to mention all of the brands there are available; Aladdin, Armstrong, Coronet, HollyTex, Mohawk, Philadelphia,
Stainmaster and Sutton. Don’t forget about all of the textures that are available, plush, saxony, and textured carpets. After all is said and done, you will probably find yourself rather tired due to the many choices.
Make sure and verify the length of time the company has been in business when you do finally decide to go with a particular company. You can visit their showroom and get an idea of what you may be intersted in as far as price, style etc. In order to choose the color though, I would suggest getting a swatch that you can take home and see if it goes well with your current decor. Make sure to cover with the dealer what type of pad will be used. I would suggest nothing less than the 8lb pad. If you have allergies you may want to see if they offer a hypo-allergenic pad. These usually can run a few hundred dollars more but if you are allergy sensitive and this is a concern for you, the additional cost is well worth the peace of mind.
Also, consider the usage the carpet will recieve, are you planning on selling this home? Or staying in it for many years to come? Do you have pets? Kids? These are all things to consider and discuss with the dealer before making a purchasing decision. Remeber, this is most likely going to cost thousands of dollars so you will want to have all of your bases covered.
Be sure to inquire as to the installers and their tenure with this company, are they just fly by the night guys that have no care or are they long-time employees that are skilled in customer service, care and satisfaction?
Lastly, take your time. Just because the salesman wants to sell you the carpet TODAY wait a week or a month, really mull it over and decide if you still like the color or texture or price you were willing to settle on a month ago. If not, you may want to rethink some of your choices. Afterall, this is a decision that you may have to live with for a while, so you may as well make it a great one!

Tuck-pointing is the most common brick and block wall repair. It is the process of replacing failed mortar joints with fresh mortar. Tuck-pointing is a really good repair technique for homeowners. It can be used to repair all sorts of things such as: walls, chimneys, brick veneer, or any other structure that the bricks or blocks are bonded with mortar.

To fix minor repairs you can always use caulk or repair compound when patching popouts or chips. Before attempting any major repair always consult a professional.

Basement walls are a big trouble area for homeowners. There’s constant moisture and stress created by contact with the ground. Also, contact with the ground will cause leaks, bowing, and plant failure. Small leaks and cracks can be fixed with hydraulic cement. You can use masonry-based waterproofing products to give deteriorated walls a fresh look.

When the time comes to upgrade your windows, consider more than just double or triple pane glass. The screens you select can have a big impact on efficiency too. In fact, solar window screens have the potential to save you a significant percentage on your energy bills. The initial price is not much more than what you would pay for regular screens. This means you will recoup your costs quickly – unlike with other home improvements that can take years to show an ROI.

Rooms equipped with these screens will be much cooler in the summer than ever before. Solar window screens can save you money in the winter too. Radiated heat loss is significantly reduced because the special coating on these screens reflects heat back inside your home. That means solar screens are a good investment no matter what climate you live in.

Additional Perks

Most UV light is blocked by these screens. This means your interior furnishings such as carpet and drapes are protected from fading. Sunlight will no longer cause an annoying glare on your TV or computer monitors either.

This type of screen is also designed to enhance your privacy. The protective effect is strongest during the day. Obviously, if you stand in front of a “privacy” window screen at night with a light source behind you, a silhouette will still be visible.

Are you concerned that dark colored screens won’t look attractive against the exterior of your home? Don’t worry. There are now “solar” materials available in neutral colors that look like regular screens.

Loose hinges are the most common door problem. Loose hinges cause the door not to hang right and then they will rub and stick together throwing off the latch mechanism.  Check the hinge screws first. If they are tight but the door still rubs, try sanding down the door’s edge and make it smooth. If you notice that the door doesn’t close easily, it may be warped; you can use a long straightedge to check for warpage. If it is slightly warped you may be able to straighten it with weights, but if it’s really bad, you’ll need a new door. Door latch problems happen for a lot of reasons: loose hinges, swollen wood, sticking latchbolts, and paint buildup.  After you have tried all of the above and the door still won’t shut, it’s probably because the door frame is off. This happens because the house is getting older and it is settling. you can make minor adjustments by filing the strike plate on the door frame. If you have room, align the latchbolt and strike plate by shimming the  hinges. Or, you can drive a few extra-long screws to adjust the frame.

Nothing is quite as relaxing as a long, hot soak in a whirlpool tub at the end of the day. If you have upgraded your bathroom by adding a jetted bathtub, here are some maintenance tips to keep it in good working condition.

Surface Cleaning

If your tub has an acrylic or fiberglass surface, you must be very careful not to scratch it. Stay away from abrasive scrubbing powders. Also, don’t use Scrubbing Bubbles® or other chemical cleaners that may degrade the plastic surface.

All you really need is dishwashing soap and a soft rag. Diluted Clorox (chlorine) is also safe for acrylic. However, it may cause bleaching on darker surfaces. Ammonia based glass cleaners like Windex are also recommended for maintaining acrylic. Always read bathroom cleaning product labels so you don’t accidentally mix ammonia (or other acids) with chlorine!

Internal Cleaning

With water jets, the internal plumbing is where the real maintenance problems can occur. That’s why manufacturers recommend not adding aromatic oils to your whirlpool tub water. It will coat the pipes and is difficult to remove. Soaps, minerals, and your natural body oils will create deposits in the plumbing regardless.

Keep this buildup to a minimum by dosing the used water with a specially formulated cleaner after you bathe. Run the jets for 10 minutes prior to draining. Have your whirlpool tub professionally cleaned once a year to remove any tough deposits that your regular cleaning regimen can’t touch.

If you are just replacing the sink and not the countertops, you need to make sure that the new sink is the same size or larger. Remove all old silicone caulk residue with either acetone or denatured alcohol. If you don’t remove the old stuff the new stuff won’t stick.

You will need:

caulk gun, spud wrench, screwdriver, sink, sink frame, plumber’s putty or silicone caulk, mounting clips, jigsaw, pen or pencil

Ok, let’s get started!!!

Step1. Turn the sink upset down and trace around the edges so you have a reference for making the sink cutout cutting lines, they will be parallel to the outlines, but 1″ inside of them to create a 1″ ledge.

Step2. Drill a starter hole and cut out the opening with a jigsaw. Cut right next to the line. The opening doesn’t have to be perfect because the sink’s flange fits over the cutout.

Step3. Do your best to attach as much of the plumbing as you can before you set the sink. It’s much easier to do it now then after it is installed.

Step4. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the edges of the sink opening. Since the sink flange won’t be flat, try and apply the caulk in the area that will touch the flange.

Step5. Insert the sink. Do your best to get the sink centered right away so the caulk doesn’t get disturbed because that can break the seal around it.

Now that does it. I hope this has been a helpful tool. Have fun installing!!!

An asphalt shingle roof is generally the most economic choice for homeowners over the short term. Composite shingles can be installed by minimally skilled laborers and are very inexpensive. However, these materials don’t offer much in the way of texture and aesthetics. Asphalt sometimes lasts for a couple of decades. That may be all you need if you will eventually sell your house and move on.

However, when you are building a retirement home that you plan to pass on to your descendents, it makes sense to look at more distinctive options that are longer lasting. Metal is one of these higher end options. It can be formed to look like many different roofing materials. However, it doesn’t require extra structural support like that needed to handle the weight of tile or slate. Unlike wood shingles, it is highly fire resistant and won’t absorb moisture.

Material Options

For a striking and unique finish, consider copper. It changes color from pale metallic brown to rich green over the years as verdigris forms on its surface. This is a lovely option if your roof has a steep pitch – it makes your investment more visible. Aluminum is very lightweight and naturally rust proof. This makes it a popular choice for the residential market.

Steel and stainless steel are both very durable. They aren’t as prone to denting as softer metals like aluminum and copper. Regular steel must be coated with a corrosion resistant finish while stainless steel may be coated to make it more attractive (and more energy efficient).

No matter which metal you choose, decide in advance if you really want to hear the sound of rain drumming overhead. If you wish to reduce the noise level, adjust your budget to include the cost of installing sound insulating materials under the metal roofing panels.

Wood siding is popular with homeowners because of its low initial cost for materials and installation. However, many consumers end up being disappointed at how quickly this material degrades. This often happens because the siding was not installed with an eye toward length of service. A wood exterior can actually last for several decades if it is properly installed and maintained.

There are several things you can do during the installation process to significantly increase the lifespan of your wood façade. Keeping moisture out is the #1 challenge. Prime and paint each piece of siding (including the cut edges) before nailing them to your house. This ensures the full surface is more resistant to water – not just the part you can see.

Ongoing Maintenance

Check caulking, flashing, and nailed areas a couple of times per year for signs of deterioration. Basically, any area where bare wood might exposed to moisture or insects can pose a problem. Keep tree branches pruned away from the sides of your house as well as the roof. Even small twigs can tear up wood siding when the wind blows them against your home.

Unlike vinyl, wood siding has to be repainted regularly. That could mean every 4-5 years depending on how much wear and tear the weather causes in your area. Choose a high quality exterior paint that is designed for the type of wood you have installed. Clean your siding and allow it to dry before you apply new paint. If the former coat is glossy, use sandpaper to add some texture. This will help the fresh coat of paint adhere properly.

Most people have experienced trouble when opening up their windows due to swollen wood or painted channels.  Or, their windows won’t stay open due to a broken sash cord or chain. Regular maintenance is very important to avoid these problems.  Here is how to adjust your windows:

1. For Spring Loaded Windows

Make sure you have an adjustment screw on the track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and open and closes smoothly.

2. Spring Lift Windows

These replacement windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded lift rod that’s inside a metal tube.  To adjust these type of windows unscrew the top end of the tube from the jamb. then twist the tube to change the spring tension: if you turn it clockwise you will get more lifting power; and counterclockwise for less.  Keep a good strong grip on the tube so you don’t unwind it.

Hope this helps with you fussy windows…