Galley kitchens are a common feature in many smaller homes. This type of layout is designed to put everything within easy reach and take up as little square footage as possible. However, a narrow kitchen is the bane of existence for couples who love to cook together. Even with the recommended 48” walkway for a two person work area, you will find yourself bumping into one another. If you are holding a knife or a pot of boiling water when this happens, it can spell the end of a happy relationship.

Is there is an adjoining wall separating your kitchen from a living area? Take it down – assuming it isn’t a load bearing wall. Relocate the appliances to one side of the new, larger area to form an L shaped layout. Or, if your dining room is larger than your kitchen, simply swap rooms. Both of these remodeling options will require rewiring and plumbing updates, but you can incorporate your existing appliances into the new layout.

Upgrading Offers Decent ROI

Sometimes, homeowners use a kitchen remodel (including new, energy efficient appliances) as a way to increase the resale value of their home. According to the 2008-2009 Cost versus Value report, most of the cost of this type of major remodeling job can be recaptured during a sale. Of course, this varies depending on the condition of the real estate market in your area. Whatever your reasons for upgrading your kitchen, you can’t go wrong with more space and better appliances.

Slight cuts or scratches in your vinyl flooring can be easily patched with liquid seam sealers. Otherwise, the damaged area may need to be patched with replacement tile.

Measure the length and width of the damaged area [square]. Place the patch over this area matching the pattern. Now, lay duct tape around the edges of this patch square, on top of the damaged area. When the patch is securely in place, use a utility knife to cut around the edges of the repair patch and through the old damaged tile. A carpenter’s square serves as a cutting guide.

When you have made the cuts, remove the duct tape, lift off the patch you will use for to replace the damaged area. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the tile and a putty knife to lift the damaged tile. Use a chisel, putty knife,  Goo Gone and a sharp floor scraper to remove the remaining adhesive from the floor underneath.

Apply adhesive to the back of the replacement patch. A notched trowel [1/8" V-shaped notches] should be used to spread the adhesive. Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle as you spread the adhesive. Lay one edge to the floor and lower the patch into place. Starting at the center and working out toward the edges, use a j-roller and pressure to avoid air bubbles and get a solid bond. Apply a thin bead of seam sealer to the outer edges of the patch. Avoid foot traffic across this area for 24 hours.

The biggest reason people don’t like to use this type of sink is it doesn’t offer any type of storage area.   First off, they are mounted in two ways. The more expensive ones are hung in the manner of wall-hung sinks. But the pedestal sinks have the structure built into it so it can do most of the bearing on it’s own.  But for those of you that do like the way it looks here is how you would install a pedestal sink:

Step1: Install 2 x 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the area where you want the sink. Make sure you cover the wall with “water-resistant” drywall.

Step2: Make sure you set the basin and pedestal in the position you want and brace it with 2 x 4′s.  Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor.  Also, make sure you mark your reference points on the wall and the floor through the mounting holes that are in the back of the sink and bottom of the pedestal.

Step3: Put the basin and pedestal to the side.  Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor where you marked your reference holes then reposition the pedestal.  Now anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws.

Step4: Attach the faucet, then set the sink on the pedestal. Make sure the holes in the back of the sink line up with the pilot holes you drilled in the wall, then put lag screws and washers into the wall brace with a ratchet wrench. Make sure not to overtighten the screws.

Final Step

Step5: Time to hook up the drain and add fittings. Don’t forget to caulk between the back of the sink and the wall when you are done with all of the installation.

Now that concludes includes our lesson for the day. Make sure to check with us daily for all of your do-it-yourself needs. Happy installing!!!!

Stone siding lends your home an air of permanence. However, the fine craftsmanship it takes to properly install stone is hard to come by. The costs are usually very high in comparison to other types of siding. Limestone also presents occasional problems with staining. Because of these issues, a number of manufacturers have developed faux stone options for homeowners who want the look of rock without the hefty price tag.

Concrete Stone

Portland concrete is sometimes used as a stone substitute. The concrete is blended in different natural colors and poured into molds that imitate the shape of real stones. Unlike a stone wall that is built solid, these faux rocks are glued to a substrate to form the façade. If the concrete blocks aren’t attached correctly, this type of siding may come off over time. Otherwise, it is very durable and long lasting.

Plastic Faux Stone

High quality plastics such as polyurethane are molded in sheets for easy installation. These come in a variety of patterns to mimic various stacking methods for real stone. There are plenty of fade resistant color choices as well. Some products offer an insulating value of up to R6 making this siding a potential energy saver.

The material is light enough that no special expertise is needed to affix the “stone” sheets to the exterior of your home. Just be careful to select a product that offers nicely finished edges – otherwise your faux stone siding won’t fool anyone. This type of material can be sprayed down with a hose every 6 months or so to remove dirt. No other maintenance is required.

When preparing to install new windows or doors, it is important to carefully remove the old material. This is removal, not demolition. Some of the material can be re-used.

First, all interior wall surfaces and trim must be removed. Have all replacement product and necessary tools at hand to install the new product right after removing the old.

You will use: a utility knife, flat pry bar, hammer, scredriver, plywood, reciprocating saw, screws and masking tape.

For doors — Gently remove the interior trim using a pry bar. This trim can be reused upon installation of the new window/door. Use a utility knife to cut away any old caulk between the siding on the exterior door frame.

Casing nails, which secure the door jambs to the framing, should be removed using a flat pry bar. Here is where your reciprocating saw comes into play. Those stubborn nails you can’t remove can be cut away. Now, remove the door from the casing

For windows — Place tape across the window to avoid shattering. Remove the interior trim from the frame with care. Again, this may be reused. Those stubborn nails can be cut with the reciprocating saw.

Your replacement windows or door can now be installed.

Nothing starts off a chilly winter morning like a hot pot of coffee. But, what do you have to go through to reach it? If your trek takes you barefoot across ceramic tiles in your kitchen, you will appreciate the ingenuity of under-floor heating. This idea dates back to the era of the Roman Empire (the same civilization that invented indoor plumbing). These days, you have two options for keeping your toes toasty – electric and hydronic.

Electric

This type of radiant heating system generally features cables fixed in a looping pattern on a mesh backing. Some manufacturers recommend placing a cork layer or other insulator between your concrete foundation and the heating system for greater energy efficiency. The cable matting is laid down over this substrate and affixed firmly to it. Thinset mortar is poured and leveled as usual (taking care not to damage the underlying electrical system). Finally, the tile is laid down, grouted, and sealed.

An electrical floor heating system can also be used under stone, marble, or wood flooring. Some manufacturers make a product that is simple enough for a DIY job. However, you will want a licensed electrician to handle connecting the heating system to your house’s wiring.

Hydronic

A hydronic system runs heated water through metal pipes to achieve a radiant heating effect. This application is not limited to kitchens and bathrooms but can be used throughout the house as a substitute for traditional central heating. Some products feature piping laid down in grooves cut in aluminum coated wood panels. This increases the efficiency of heating compared to pipes set in gypsum concrete. Carpet as well as hard flooring surfaces can be installed over these floor boards.

In our previous post, we explored the things you need to consider when you are shopping for replacement windows. Once you have investigated all your options by comparing products and prices from several dealers, here’s the next step:

Determine whether you will install the windows yourself or have an expert do this for you. Hiring a contractor to perform this task is more expensive; but a professional will usually complete installation correctly and in a timely manner. This can put your mind at ease – and you won’t have to worry about purchasing all the tools necessary to do the job.

Gather recommendations from organizations (such as the Better Business Bureau) that collect/publish information on local suppliers and contractors. That way, you will be able to select a company that follows industry standards and best practices. Don’t simply hire a handyman to handle this type of job. If you do and something goes wrong, you might have to go to small claims court to resolve the issue.

Safety & Liability

Whenever workers are using tools or ladders on your property, there is the potential for a claim against your homeowner’s policy. Before allowing work to begin, ask to see the contractor’s business license and general liability/workers’ compensation insurance. If any of the contractor’s employees are injured while installing your replacement windows, they will need to file a claim with their employer – not against you.

Warranty & Maintenance

One of the most important aspects of window replacement is the warranty. Understand exactly what components and time period your warranty covers. With a contractor, the workmanship and installation should be covered in addition to the product. Retain a copy of these warranties for your records. During the installation process, ask the contractor to show you how to perform required maintenance to keep your windows in good condition over the years.

Windows generally last for many years. But, like any other part of your home exterior, they will eventually require maintenance. You can often adjust or repair seals, locking mechanisms, glass, woodwork, vinyl, screens, and other components.

However, as a homeowner you know it is time to buy replacement windows when yours:

• Are beyond repair or not cost effective to repair
• Feature a design or material that is not energy efficient
• Don’t fit the style you want for your home

Materials, Sizing, & Efficiency

Your final purchasing decision will have consequences for years to come, perhaps decades. Invest in high quality materials (other than wood) that will withstand the long-term wear and tear of normal use. Most windows on the market today offer superior performance compared to those typically installed a few decades ago.

Standard sizes today are not necessarily the same as those sold years ago. To make sure your new windows will fit properly, use a tape measure to accurately assess what sizes you need. Then, double check to make sure! You may have to customize the window to fit the space or change the dimensions of the opening. This will increase the material and labor costs necessary to get the job done properly.

Energy savings from high efficiency triple-pane glass windows may offset some of the upfront costs for replacement over the first few years of use. This often makes it reasonable to upgrade – even if there is no apparent damage to your current windows. Check the NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council), Energy Star, and Consumer ratings for more information on this critical topic.

Your kitchen is the one room in your home where you probably make the most mess. Hot grease spatters from frying pans, mashed potatoes spin off the mixer beaters, and water splashes out of the sink when you are washing dishes. This means moisture resistant, easy to clean surfaces are a must.  Paint doesn’t react well to constant scrubbing, so it isn’t the best finish for this area. This is one reason backsplashes are often used as an alternative to painted surfaces in kitchens.

Installing a kitchen backsplash is a fairly simple DIY project that can spruce up the area behind your stovetop/sink or above all your countertops. Here are a few materials and design ideas to consider:

Stainless Steel

Brushed stainless steel is long lasting and attractive. You can purchase it in sheets that are flat or embossed. This material is easy to install – use a construction adhesive to glue it in place. Add a decorative molding around the edges or just caulk them. Wipe down stainless steel with a damp cloth and a gentle detergent to remove food splatters.

Decorative Tile

This is the most versatile option for your kitchen backsplash. Match the tile to your flooring or any other feature/decoration in the room. You can create a geometric pattern using tiles of different sizes or colors. Or, you might prefer a mural of fruit or a Tuscan countryside. It is important to measure and place the tiles carefully or you will end up with a crooked design. The grout will need to be well sealed (and cleaned frequently) to prevent staining.

Smooth Stone

If your kitchen countertops are high quality granite, you may want to simply continue this effect up the wall for a seamless backsplash effect. You can also top a low granite backsplash with marble tiles for a sophisticated accented look.

In the world of prefabricated sunrooms, the most basic options are simple glass boxes that enclose a patio or deck. These structures accomplish the job of allowing sunlight in. However, they don’t offer a great deal of aesthetic appeal. This is one reason many homeowners choose to spring for a slightly more customized design like those created by TEMO and Four Seasons.

The conservatory is a good example of a home addition that offers grace and elegance as well as light filled space. Unlike a traditional sunroom with a flat or low vaulted ceiling, a conservatory sunroom rises to a dome or a steep apex. The ceiling is often paneled with clear or frosted glass rather than being opaque.

Room Structure

The room itself may be hexagonal or octagonal offering a panoramic view. This shape blends well with Victorian architecture. Rectangular conservatories are also available that more closely match Georgian style homes. Laminated aluminum generally forms the exterior, but the interior can be finished in wood or other materials to match the rest of your home. White is one of the most popular exterior colors for this type of sunroom – it matches the trim on many houses.

Possible Uses

Historically, conservatories have been used as attached greenhouses for upscale homes and public buildings. This is still a great way to use your own, modern sunroom. The climate is somewhat controlled while letting in plenty of natural sunlight. You can also furnish this area as a parlor, music room, or library.