Stepping out of a hot shower into a chilly bathroom is not something anyone wants to experience. The amount of heat delivered through the typical HVAC system just isn’t sufficient to take the edge off on winter days. That’s one reason many homeowners opt to install an additional heater in their bathrooms.

Which One Should You Choose?

Any space heater will do the job, but safety is important in a wet environment. Ideally, you should purchase a model that is specifically designed to be used in a moist environment. The unit should be small enough that it won’t eat up too much space or come into contact with flammable objects.

Ease of installation is another big factor. Complications may arise when you need a power switch to work in conjunction with the existing electrical system. This is often a concern when installing wall panel, baseboard radiant strip or ceiling bathroom heaters as DIY projects.

To avoid this problem, you might choose a fan based or portable convection heater that is UL listed as safe for use in a bathroom. Perhaps you would be satisfied with simply having a warm towel on hand when you get out of the tub. Towel warmers are available in designs that are as inexpensive or as fancy as you like. Some can be plugged directly into an existing outlet – eliminating the need for rewiring of any kind.

For real luxury, consider radiant in-floor heating. This is a fairly energy efficient option that can keep your toes toasty warm. However, it is usually only a suitable choice if you were already planning a major remodel. It requires tearing out and replacing the existing floor as well as adding wiring that may require expert help from a licensed electrician.

How Much Heat Do You Need?

Regardless of which type of bathroom heater you buy, make sure the device is powerful enough to do the job. The basic rule is that the heater should use 12 to 15 watts to heat 1 square foot of bathroom space. This means that a 1500 watt heater should be adequate for a 10’ by 12’ space. If you have more room than this, you need a more powerful piece of equipment – perhaps one using 3000 watts.

You should always use two people when wallpapering the ceiling. Make sure you use heavy duty adhesive and give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. If you are using the same paper on the walls, paper the ceiling first and make sure to match the seams from ceiling to walls.

Step1: PRIME AND PATCH THE CEILING

Lay out the paper on the ceiling so that the strips will overlap the wall by about ½ inch. When you lay out the strip, hold a roll of paper against the ceiling at one side of the room. Now, mark on the ceiling ½ inch from the end of the roll. Go the the other side and make a similar mark.

Step2: SNAP A CHALK LINE CONNECTING THE TWO MARKS.

You will want to use blue chalk because red chalk will bleed through the paper. Cut a strip of paper to the exact length and then apply wallpaper paste activator.

Step3: WORKING IN SMALL SECTIONS, POSITION THE STRIP AGAINST THE GUIDELINE

Make sure you overlap the side wall by ½ inch and the end walls by 2 inches. Take a smooth brush and flatten the strip as you work. If you are going to cover the walls with the same paper, trim the ceiling wallpaper so it overlaps the wall by ½ inch. If you are not covering the walls then trim the excess by holding a broad knife against the corner and cutting with a razor knife.

Step4: CUT OUT A SMALL WEDGE OF WALLPAPER IN THE CORNER SO THAT THE STRIP WILL LIE SMOOTH.

Press the wallpaper into the corner with a broad knife.

Preparing the walls is as important as hanging the paper. If the surface is greasy or dirty, the paper won’t stick. Also, if there are irregularities in the wall, they may be visible on the paper’s surface. So be prepared: Wash, patch, fix, prime, seal, and size before you paper. The good thing is primers, sealers, and sizing are combined into a single product. Paint and plaster companies market many wall repair kits.

Step1: PATCH AND PRIME THE WALLS BEFORE YOU START

Primer can be white, clear, or tinted slightly to match the paper. When you have finished priming, look at the paper you selected. The pattern type determines how the strips are cut and glued on the walls. On straight-match and random-match papers, patterns along the left and right edges of the paper are the same, and the installation is straight forward.  On drop-match papers, the elements are staggered along both edges.  Aligning the pattern results in an uneven top edge, which get’s trimmed.  This will take more time and you will waste more paper but results in a  more interesting and fun patern. Cutting alternating strips from two rolls  of wallpaper will cut down on some of the wallpaper waste.

Step2: BEGIN IN THE LEAST-CONSPICUOUS INSIDE CORNER OF THE ROOM

You should position the first strip so that most of the paper is on the first wall to be pampered, with about 1/2 to 2 inches of the strip wrapping around the corner onto the adjoining wall. This helps hide the cracks they may develop in the corners. When you measure the strip, you will need to lay out the strip and measure it from the corner by the width of the paper minus the wrap. Draw a plumb line at this point, guided by a level.

Step3: CUT THE FIRST STRIP OF PAPER

You will need to cut it about 4 inches longer than needed so that it can temporarily overlap the ceiling baseboard. Then roll out the paper on a long work surface and cut the strip to length with scissors.

Step4: APPLY ACTIVATOR OR PASTE

It’s recommended to use a paste activator instead of soaking prepasted paper: It’s a stronger bond and it takes longer to dry so you can continue to move the paper around on the wall. Brush or roll on the activator. Make sure you follow the directions for the activator as well. Also, make sure you get paste ACTIVATOR not paste!

Step5: GENTLY FOLD THE ENDS TOWARD THE MIDDLE,

glued sides together with the patterned side out. The term used for this is “booking the strip”. Try not to crease the paper. Wait at least 1 minute so the paste has a chance to activate before hanging it.

Step6: HANG THE FIRST STRIP ALONG THE PLUMB LINE WITH A GENTLE BUT FIRM HAND

Start by positioning the middle of the strip, and work your way up to the top, sliding the paper to align it. Align the bottom and work it gently against the wall. Now, start from the top and work your way down the wall and smooth the paper onto the wall with a brush or a flexable plastic smoother.

Step7: HANG THE SECOND STRIP AND THEN TRIM THE FIRST

Allow the glue to dry on the first strip while you hang the second one. Then when you are done hanging it, you can go back and trim the first strip.

Step8: BUTT SUBSEQUENT STRIPS AGAINST EACH OTHER

When you have finished hanging a few strips, go over the seams between them with a seam roller to fix the edges in place. Be careful not to force too much paste out from under the strips or your seams will loosen. Use clean warm water and a sponge to remove excess paste from the wall. Do not use a roller on foils, flocked, or embossed papers because it may damage it. Instead, press along the seams with a smoothing brush.

Step9: PAPER OVER ELECTRIC SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

Cut away excess paper. Before you cut around an electrical box, make sure you turn the power off to the room. Make four diagonal slices, starting at the center of the box and working toward corners. Trim and make a rectangular opening, leave enough paper for the cover plate to conceal the edges.

Do you love the thought of having lovely green vines growing over the siding on your home? Your romantic ideas about living in a quaint, ivy covered cottage can be shattered when you learn the truth about the damage it can cause. Heavy plant growth provides an ideal environment for moisture to collect and cause permanent staining on your siding.

Permeable surfaces like brick and stucco offer a foothold for the root-like tendrils of vines. These don’t just cling to the surface, they work their way into the façade materials – especially mortar. As the tendrils grow and expand, they can cause these types of siding to deteriorate. Ivy can also work its runners between vinyl and wood siding panels, gradually separating them.

Ivy Removal

If you already have ivy growing on your siding, removing it can be difficult. The suckers cling tenaciously to any surface. Start by cutting all the vines off where they root into the ground. Allow several weeks for the plants to die back. Keep checking these roots since the ivy will try to send runners back down to the soil to re-root.

Pull off as much of the vines as you can. This will expose the dense network of runners and sucker pads still clinging to your siding. Power washing can remove some of these, but be prepared to do some heavy duty scrubbing by hand too.

Refinishing Your Siding

Sand and repaint wood siding as a final step. You may be able to scrub stains off vinyl siding using a weak bleach solution. Just check for color fastness in a non-conspicuous area first. Brick will probably require mortar repairs. Stucco may need to be patched and painted.

Sunrooms are often added later in the life of a house. This means you may not be able to exactly match the flooring in this type of addition to what you already have in other areas of your home. Tile, carpet, and other products are often produced in “lots” that vary from one run to the next. So, finding an option that simply compliments your existing flooring is your best bet.

Laminates

Faux wood and tile laminates are the least expensive flooring options. They are easy to keep clean. If you expect mud to be tracked into your sunroom, consider one of these materials. They can look very nice if you choose a durable, name brand product.

Carpet

If you plan on using your sunroom as a cozy conservatory, you may wish to carpet it. High quality UV blocking glass will reduce carpet’s tendency to fade in the sun. Select a stain resistant indoor/outdoor product for this area if you have kids or pets.

Tile

This is a classic flooring material for sunrooms. However, it will be chilly underfoot until the sun warms it up. Add textured throw rugs made from natural fibers such as sisal or coconut to wake your feet up. Or, install under-floor heating to make this flooring more comfortable.

Wood

Depending on the style of your sunroom, you may want a natural wood deck surface underfoot. The darker you stain it, the more warmth it will absorb from the sun. Seal it just as you would an outdoor deck to keep out moisture. Apply a scratch resistant finish to keep the wood looking nice.

Concrete

Are you having a fresh concrete slab poured for your sunroom? If so, it won’t have blemishes like adhesive residue or scratches typically found after pulling up existing carpet or tile. This means the concrete surface will be in perfect condition for glazing – a very modern effect.

Wouldn’t it be nice if a fresh coat of paint over a good primer would cover over stains, water marks, and mildew? When the paint is still wet it may appear to cover, but as it dries these stains will seep through and you’ll end up with a fresh coat of stained paint.

Before you prime or paint, remove all stains and mildew. It will take some elbow grease, but cleaning it before hand will save you time in the long run because you won’t have to repaint it. The best thing to use to destroy the spores that cause mildew is regular household bleach diluted with water. You will need to fix water stains at the source before you repair the wall or ceiling.

Water leaches chemicals from wood and drywall. When the mixture seeps through a wall or ceiling, it stains. Mildew is a spore in the air. Given food (paper or paint) and moisture, mildew flourishes on walls.

Step1: MIX THREE PARTS WATER TO ONE PART LAUNDRY BLEACH

You will want to mix this two solutions in a bucket. If you are sensitive to bleach, protect your eyes and hands.

Step2: APPLY LIBERALLY WITH A SPONGE

Apply again after 20 minutes even if the mold has disappeared.

Step3: RINSE OFF THE BLEACH AND DEAD MILDEW WITH CLEAN, FRESH WATER

Allow it to dry throughly before cleaning with TSP substitute. Then prime with a stain-blocking primer and paint.

Only compression valves have valve seats. When repairing a compression valve, check to see if the valve seats need to be resurfaced. You will need to stick your finger down into the faucet body to feel if the valve seat is rough. If it is rough it will quickly damage a washer. You should either replace it or resurface the valve seat at the same time you are replacing the faucet washer.

Step1: TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY AND DISASSEMBLE THE FAUCET VALVE

Lower the sink stopper and cover it with a cloth to prevent loose parts from falling into the drain. Pry off the handle cap with a screwdriver. Remove the valve. Now loosen the compression valve with water-pump pliers and remove it. Make sure you keep any and all washers or O-rings with the valve and set them aside.

Step2: BACK OUT THE SEAT

Use a seat wrench to remove the valve seat. Now select an end that fits snugly into the seat. Insert the end of the wrench into the seat and tap the top to seat if firmly. The valve seat may be stuck, so the first turn should be quick and firm to release it without stripping the threads. When you have it loose, turn the wrench until you can remove the screw and take the seat out. You will need to take the old seat with you when you go to buy a new one. That way you will get the right one.

Step3: REPLACE THE SEAT

Install the new seat into the faucet. Apply pipe dope to the seat threads to seal them; insert the end of the seat wrench into the seat and set the seat in place. Now, screw the valve into place and assemble the compression valve, faucet handle, and handle cap. When you turn the water supply on make sure you go slow and check for leaks.

If you want to add delightful, old fashioned charm to your home, you can’t go wrong with window awnings. Nothing says “small town USA” like these brightly colored canvas accents. Residential awnings may be purchased in standard sizes or custom made for your windows. The dimensions are typically measured in height and projection (the depth of the overhang). The larger the awning, the more shade it will provide for your window.

Awning Styles

Canvas awnings may be open or enclosed on the sides. They can feature a dome top or have a sleek rectangular profile. The valance (the front edge that hangs down) may be scalloped, notched, or straight. With a huge number of colors and stripe combinations to choose from, you can find an awning style to suit any home.

Installation and Care Tips

Installing an awning is very simple. You will need a ladder, a drill and bits, a screwdriver, a pencil, and a level. The assembly instructions will vary a little from one product to the next but the basics are the same. Centering and keeping the awning level is, of course, the most important step. Here are a couple of other important tips:

Drill into the header and studs to install the back bar/return arms for maximum support.

Take care not to puncture the canvas fabric with the drill or screwdriver while you are working.

For cleaning, simply use a garden hose to spray your awnings down once a month. Don’t let dirt build up on the canvas – this can lead to mildew growth and staining. You can use warm water and dishwashing soap for deeper cleaning. Let the fabric air dry.

Shutoff valves let you turn on and off the water near your fixtures so you don’t have to shut off the water to the entire house to make repairs. They attach in different ways: by soldering, threading, or compression fittings. Compression fittings are the easiest to install and don’t require pipe dope, or compound. A metal sleeve makes the fitting watertight, as long as you install it right. Make sure you turn the water off before you start working. You will need to open the faucet you are working on and another one somewhere below it in the house so you can drain all the water out of  it.

Step1: DISCONNECT THE SUPPLY PIPE

Before you start, turn off the main water supply to the house. Unscrew the supply pipe at the wall. You will need to cut it with a mini-pipe tubing cutter or a mini-hacksaw if it is solder ti the wall. Make sure you are careful when cutting the tube. If it is out of round, the compression fitting will leak. Leave enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to install the fitting. Deburr the pipe with an emery cloth. Now slide the compression nut over the supply pipe as far back as you can.

Step2: PLACE THE COMPRESSION RING OVER THE END OF THE SUPPLY PIPE

The end should completely cover the end of the supply pipe. Thread the compression valve into the compression nut. The valve should slide snugly over the ring. Hand tighten the nut. If it doesn’t turn easily, add a tiny drop of oil to the threads. Don’t use pipe compound; the fitting doesn’t require it, and it can make the fitting leak.

Step3: TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION VALVE TO THE NUT BUT DON’T OVER TIGHTEN IT

You will need one wrench to hold the back of the valve and keep it square and another to turn the nut. Follow the same procedure you used to install the valve to attach the supply lines. Only turn the water on for a second and let it flow into a bucket to flush the lines before installing the fixtures.

Keeping your kitchen sparkling and spotless is a never ending task. Food crumbs, spills, and spatters just seem to get everywhere. If this room isn’t well lit, all that wiping, sweeping, and scrubbing may still leave debris behind. This is one good reason to add under-cabinet lights.

These shine a spotlight on your food prep surfaces making it easier to achieve the highest standards of cleanliness. Of course, extra lights also help during cooking. They can make it easier to read instructions in your cookbook. Being able to see your cutting board more clearly might save you a finger as well.

Unfortunately, you can’t just plug under-cabinet lighting into a standard wall outlet (it’s not safe). You need to draw power from another source. If you are comfortable working with wiring and transformers, you can install these lights yourself following the manufacturer’s instructions. Otherwise, hire an electrician to help you out for an afternoon.

Types of Lighting

The 3 most popular types of bulbs are fluorescents, xenon, and LED. Fluorescent bulbs can look like regular task lamps – a long bulb of whatever length you require. Xenon and LED lamps are usually circular “pucks” that offer spot lighting. With many brands, you can connect these pucks in a series to illuminate the entire length of your cabinet from a single power source.

Most under-cabinet lights for kitchens have a slim profile that makes them virtually invisible after installation. Others are designed to be recessed. In this case, you will need to cut holes in the bottoms of your cabinets as part of the installation process.

Soldering copper pipe fittings isn’t hard, but you will need to practice to make perfect. It’s a good idea to gather some scraps of copper and solder a few joints until you get it right. Copper plumbing is appreciated for it’s professional look. Copper is a durable, clean functional connecting system.

Make sure that you get the L pipe instead of the M pipe. The M pipe has a thinner wall and is for heating systems. It may leak under greater pressure of a water supply system.

Step1: PREPARE THE INSIDE OF THE FITTING

You need to start with rimming the inside of each fitting with a round wire brush and sand the end of the fitting with an emery cloth. When the connections are clean it ensures a good seal.

Step2: CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE.

To do this use an emery cloth or steel wool. Use a deburring tool or the handle of a pair of pliers to deburr the inside of the pipe. If you don’t deburr the pipe a burr can cause a hum once the water starts running through the pipe. You’ll need to be careful because the edges may be sharp.

Step3: APPLY FLUX TO THE PIPE

Apply a layer of flux (lead-free soldering paste) to the end of the pipe using a flux brush. You will need to cover about 1 inch of the pipe with the flux. When you insert the pipe into the fitting make sure it is tight against the bottom of the fitting. Twist the fitting slightly to spread the flux.

Step4: UNWIND THE SOLDER WIRE

You will need at least 8 to 10 inches of the wire extended from the spool. You will need to bend the first 2 inches to a 90-degree angle.

Step5: HEAT THE FITTING

Put the pipe in both sides of the fitting so soot from the torch won’t contaminate the joint. You will need to hold the flame against the center of the fitting for 4-5 seconds or until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

Step6: TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE PIPE

Move the flame to the low end of the fitting. Now remove the flame and touch the solder against the pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is ready to solder.

Step7: APPLY MORE HEAT IF NECESSARY

After the solder melts when you touch it against the pipe, remove the flame and quickly melt ½ to ¾ inch of solder into the joint. Capillary attraction will draw the liquid solder into the joint. If your joint is properly soldered, it will show a thin bead of solder around the fitting.

Step8: CLEAN THE FITTING

Some of the plumbers will reapply flux and briefly heat the pipe to clean it further. You should always wipe away the excess solder with a rag. Be careful when handling the pipe because it will be hot. You can cool the pipe and fitting with a damp rag. Now turn on the water and check for leaks. If the joint leaks, take it apart and re-solder it.

Was the brick siding on your house painted over by the previous owner? Very occasionally, this improves the look of the home. Usually, it turns out to be a regrettable mistake. If you want to remove paint from the façade of your home, you need to do this without causing additional damage to the underlying surface. Here are some Dos and Don’ts.

Blast Off

Sand blasting may seem like a quick and efficient way to strip paint. However, this technique can permanently damage brick by, well, blasting it to pieces. Save your sandblaster for taking rust off of metal. You need to be gentler with your brick siding.

Power Up

A power washer poses the same problems as a sand blaster but adds a new twist. The pressurized stream of water can work its way into the pores of the brick. This will erode your siding faster than you think.

Strip It Down

Chemical stripping agents are your best bet for removing paint. That doesn’t mean every formula is created equal. Some are ineffective while others are corrosive. Test a small area before applying a treatment to an entire wall.

Start by washing down the siding with a sprayer on a regular garden hose. Next, apply the paint-dissolving chemical. For latex, you can use Smart Strip or Peel Away 7. Spray again to remove the paint after the stripping agent has softened it up. Use a brush with very stiff bristles to scrub any remaining residue off the bricks.