Windows take a good beating all the time. The finish degrades. The effects
of the sunlight and moisture make it necessary to sand and strip the window. Most windows installed before the 1950′s were done with clear finishes and they were shellacked. Then came lacquers and now polyurethane is the standard for homeowners. If you won’t be stripping the old finish,sand carefully to ensure that the new coats adhere well.  What about stripping a painted window and finishing it clear? You face the challenge of coaxing paint from the crevices of the trim, the window frame, and all the molding. It can be done, but it’s not easy. Take a good look and assess how much work you have ahead of you. You may want to send the woodwork out to a dip-and-strip shop.

Step1: SAND OR STRIP THE EXISTING FINISH

If your window is in good condition, you can sand it to smooth the finish and dull the sheen. Make sure you cover your work area with a cheap drop cloth. Start with 120-grit sandpaper; after most of the work is done,  finish sanding it with 180-grit sandpaper for a smoother surface. If the sash doesn’t just pop out, you may have to carefully pry off trim pieces. Brush paint and varnish remover onto the window sashes. Make sure there is good ventilation and wear rubber gloves and a vapor respirator. Scrape off the finish with a putty knife. Rinse with the right solvent that is  recommended for the remover.

Step2: FILL HOLES

You can use wood putty to fill the flaws. You will want to spot-sand those areas when you are done. If you are using an oil-based finish, go over the window with a tack cloth or damp paper towel if you are using a water-based finish. There is not a putty that will match the wood exactly.  You can stain the wood and use a stainable putty that will absorb the  stain and come close to a match. But keep in mind, it won’t be a perfect  match. Try different brands to see which works the best for you.

Step3: MASK PANES

Use masking tape so you don’t get the finish on the glass. The low-tack  tapes are easy to remove and they leave less residue. They will also work  when you mask off the trim too. The white and blue rolls stick better than  the brown so I suggest you use those. There are a lot of low-tack tapes  out there, so read the labels and find out which one will work best for  you. Mask the two side edges of the sash; they are usually left unfinished so the finish won’t stick when you open the window.

Step4: APPLY THE STAIN AND FINISH

If the window is stripped and you want to darken it or just stain it, do it now. The stain will only work evenly if you have throughly removed the old finish. If the window is made with a soft wood, you will have an additional problem staining it. Soft wood will absorb the stain unevenly and it will look blotchy. Apply a gel stain if the wood is soft, it won’t blotch because the gel doesn’t soak deep enough into the wood.  Apply at least two coats for best results. Sills take the worst of the weather so I would apply three coats there.

Step5: REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE

As soon as the finish begins to dry, remove the the tape from the glass to prevent adhesive residue. If you have residue on the windows, draw a sharp utility knife along the edges of each pane.

Related posts:

1. Removing Paint from Your Windows
2. Repairing a Hole in Your Wall
3. Window Pane Replacement Tips
4. Removing Old Doors & Windows
5. Interior Window Trim Basics

Tags: Home Improvement, staining, stripping, window frame, windows

This entry was posted on Wednesday, December 9th, 2009 at 11:32 am and is filed under Home Improvement, Replacement Windows. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.