Composite shingles are the usual choice for new and replacement roofs on most U.S. homes. These shingles are cheap to make and easy to install. However, they don’t last as long as other materials such as metal or slate. This shorter life cycle means the production and disposal of each roof places a strain on the environment. However, there is a way to reduce this impact – by ensuring that the composite shingles contain a high percentage of recycled material.

Products Used in Recycled Shingles

A number of plastic and rubber items can be incorporated into shingles. These include post-consumer waste like milk jugs and tires. The leftover scraps from the manufacture of baby diapers are another popular source of plastic for roofing materials.

One Canadian waste management company is currently developing plans to offer collection services that pick up used baby diapers for recycling as a roofing component. Of course, these “nappies” have to be sterilized (probably using a waste autoclaving process) to break them down into usable, germ free material. Knowaste already has the technology to make this possible. It’s just a matter of getting the public involved in this new recycling effort.

Quality and Variety Included

These composite shingles don’t look second hand. They can actually be formed to mimic slate and other high-end roofing options and are available in many colors. You can also buy shingles made with recycled fiberglass. These are advertised as being particularly energy efficient. So, the next time you go roof shopping, keep an eye out for recycled products. The more you know the more you can do to buy “green”.

CPVC is used for hot and cold water supply. It is cheaper to but than copper and it is just as durable. It also withstands high temperatures and pressure in the supply system. It’s easy to cut with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and connections are easy and quick to assemble. You can get one-step cements for CPVC and eliminate the purple primer. You need to make sure that one-step cements are allowed and that they meet your codes before you use them. Also, check the local codes carefully to determine whether or not you need to use primer.

Step1: DEBURR THE PIPE

Make sure you remove the burrs to ensure even coverage with the primer and cement. After you have deburred, sand lightly with an emery cloth, that way the pipe will sit in the bottom of the fitting.

Step2: COAT THE SURFACES WITH PRIMER IF REQUIRED

Apply an even coat of primer to the pipe and the fitting. Primer will soften the pipe to help seat it and reacts with the cement to make a permanent bond. Make sure you use a purple primer if you are required under code to primer. That way the inspector will be able to easily see it.

Step3: APPLY THE CEMENT AND ASSEMBLE THE PARTS QUICKLY AND CAREFULLY

You will need a dauber to apply an even coat of cement to the pipe and fitting and insert the pipe all the way into the fitting until it stops. Make sure you twist the pipe a quarter of a turn to spread the cement evenly. Hold the pipe for 30 seconds to prevent the heat made by the cement from pushing apart the connections. Wipe off the excess cement with a clean rag.

A pot rack is one of those upscale kitchens accoutrements that are frequently featured in the movies and in interior design magazines. The shiny set of a dozen or more burnished copper pots and pans are always perfectly flawless. That’s your first clue what you are seeing is a fantasy rather than a reality.

Take out your own pots and look at them. Do they have any scorch marks, stains, or mineral build up? That’s the authentic look of well worn cookware. You might not want to display them prominently in your kitchen. For the Southern Living kitchen look, you would need to buy a matched set specifically for show.

Your other option is to embrace the homey, eclectic look by mixing cast iron, stainless steel, and copper pieces. This is the way to go if you are more interested in the functionality of the pot rack than in the aesthetics. Either way, the placement of your pot rack will play an important role in how happy you are with this kitchen accessory.

Avoid Common Pitfalls

The #1 mistake homeowners make is installing the pot rack where it gets in the way of other activities. Hanging it over a center island may seem like a brilliant idea – until you actually add the pots and pans. Then, if you didn’t allow sufficient height you will end up banging your head on this suspended cookware. In contrast, a rack that is hung too high will make it difficult for you to reach items when you need them.

Putting a pot rack near the stove will mean you have to constantly wipe splatters off the saucepans. Instead, choose a low traffic area. Consider a wall rack rather than a suspended circular “chandelier” style rack if you have a smaller kitchen. This will minimize pans banging against each other and becoming dented if they are jostled.

Stippling is a subtractive finish. You apply the glaze and then you remove some of it. You do this by pouncing or bouncing the ends of a finely bristled stippling brush through wet glaze. It creates a more finely textured surface than sponging on or off. However, it does require more effort to pounce the brush over every inch of the glazed wall. A stippling brush has long bristles that cover a larger area than the end of a regular brush with each pounce. Stippling brushes are more expensive, but worth every penny to get the right effect. For the edges of the wall you should get the edge stippler. It has a narrow design that makes it easier to pounce along the edges.

You can also use stippling as an additive effect. You can dip a brush into the glaze mix and apply it to the wall lightly by slapping the bristles against the palm of your hand and splattering tiny drops of paint on the base coat.

Step1: PRACTICE AND PRIME

First apply a semigloss base coat. Brush short sections and then roll out as many of the brush strokes as possible. Finish rolling the area and paint more of the edges with the brush. Allow the base coat to dry. Mix the paint and the glaze with four parts glaze and one part paint. Only roll the section of the wall that you will be able to stipple before it begins to dry. Pounce or bounce the stippling brush on the glaze surface to create your effect. Brush on the glaze near the edges. Apply it elsewhere with a 3/8-inch roller or a foam roller. Use less glaze if you are looking for a lighter finish and apply it in random swirls with a paint brush.

Step2: STIPPLE THE GLAZE

Always work from top to bottom. Pounce the brush so that you feel a rebound from bending the bristles. Gently push to finely freckle the layer of glaze. The effect on the wall should be even. Turn your wrist between each application of the brush to avoid creating a pattern. You will need to remove excess glaze from the brush because a loaded brush won’t leave a finely textured surface. Use a rag to absorb excess finish from the bristles and to lighten the overall effect of the wall. Clean the brush after every five or six pounces. Stipple the corners. Move along the wall, rolling and stippling, section by section. In the corners use a small, stiff-bristled brush to stipple around the edges of the wall.

There may not be room for a full size linen cabinet in a half bath, but you definitely shouldn’t miss out on this appealing storage option in your master bathroom. This is the perfect space to store fresh towels, toiletries, and extra paper products.

Open vs. Closed

Open linen storage is simply a recessed area with wood or wire shelving that makes everything easily accessible. This approach is very inexpensive and can be incorporated into bathrooms of any size. This option may work for you if you keep everything super organized. Otherwise, it might simply look cluttered and unfinished.

A closet or cabinet with doors is more elegant and keeps everything out of sight. This gives you a discreet place to store items that you may not want on view. You can also combine open shelves for towels with drawers or closed cabinets for personal hygiene supplies. Make sure the cabinet is positioned so the doors can be opened without obstruction.

Finishing Options

White and ivory are lovely, classic choices for the exterior of a linen cabinet. Use a deep rose, cobalt blue, or lime green for the interior for a surprising burst of color. Don’t use contact paper to line the shelves – it may bubble and peel. Use moisture resistant latex paint instead.

A rich wood exterior is another great look – especially if it ties in with furnishings in your master bedroom. Choose wrought iron or glass drawer pulls and handles for eye catching accents. Make sure any wood veneers are well sealed since bathrooms tend to be humid.

What to Avoid

Some people like to use the bottom half of a floor to ceiling linen closet as a clothes hamper. However, soiled clothing and wet towels can cause unpleasant smells and mildew if they are allowed to sit in an enclosed space for more than a day or so.

That’s one good reason to have a separate, portable laundry hamper in your bathroom (canvas on a wood frame is a nice choice). You can simply transfer the contents to your washer/dryer utility room for sorting at the end of each day.

Windows take a good beating all the time. The finish degrades. The effects
of the sunlight and moisture make it necessary to sand and strip the window. Most windows installed before the 1950′s were done with clear finishes and they were shellacked. Then came lacquers and now polyurethane is the standard for homeowners. If you won’t be stripping the old finish,sand carefully to ensure that the new coats adhere well.  What about stripping a painted window and finishing it clear? You face the challenge of coaxing paint from the crevices of the trim, the window frame, and all the molding. It can be done, but it’s not easy. Take a good look and assess how much work you have ahead of you. You may want to send the woodwork out to a dip-and-strip shop.

Step1: SAND OR STRIP THE EXISTING FINISH

If your window is in good condition, you can sand it to smooth the finish and dull the sheen. Make sure you cover your work area with a cheap drop cloth. Start with 120-grit sandpaper; after most of the work is done,  finish sanding it with 180-grit sandpaper for a smoother surface. If the sash doesn’t just pop out, you may have to carefully pry off trim pieces. Brush paint and varnish remover onto the window sashes. Make sure there is good ventilation and wear rubber gloves and a vapor respirator. Scrape off the finish with a putty knife. Rinse with the right solvent that is  recommended for the remover.

Step2: FILL HOLES

You can use wood putty to fill the flaws. You will want to spot-sand those areas when you are done. If you are using an oil-based finish, go over the window with a tack cloth or damp paper towel if you are using a water-based finish. There is not a putty that will match the wood exactly.  You can stain the wood and use a stainable putty that will absorb the  stain and come close to a match. But keep in mind, it won’t be a perfect  match. Try different brands to see which works the best for you.

Step3: MASK PANES

Use masking tape so you don’t get the finish on the glass. The low-tack  tapes are easy to remove and they leave less residue. They will also work  when you mask off the trim too. The white and blue rolls stick better than  the brown so I suggest you use those. There are a lot of low-tack tapes  out there, so read the labels and find out which one will work best for  you. Mask the two side edges of the sash; they are usually left unfinished so the finish won’t stick when you open the window.

Step4: APPLY THE STAIN AND FINISH

If the window is stripped and you want to darken it or just stain it, do it now. The stain will only work evenly if you have throughly removed the old finish. If the window is made with a soft wood, you will have an additional problem staining it. Soft wood will absorb the stain unevenly and it will look blotchy. Apply a gel stain if the wood is soft, it won’t blotch because the gel doesn’t soak deep enough into the wood.  Apply at least two coats for best results. Sills take the worst of the weather so I would apply three coats there.

Step5: REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE

As soon as the finish begins to dry, remove the the tape from the glass to prevent adhesive residue. If you have residue on the windows, draw a sharp utility knife along the edges of each pane.

Giving shape to your home’s exterior with geometric replacement windows is lots of fun. Finding the perfect location is your first step. Many homeowners choose to put an accent window just below the apex of the roof. It can be an actual window looking into an attic loft, or a faux one that is merely decorative. Round “porthole”, half circle, and octagonal styles are popular for this type of application. They draw the eye up to the tallest point of your home making it look more imposing.

You can also flank standard, rectangular windows with smaller right angle triangle or trapezoid shaped accent panes. These angular shapes add interest to your home exterior. Use your imagination – these can be placed in almost any area. Geometric windows are usually non-opening, so don’t rely solely on this style if you want to have the option of letting in fresh air.

Larger windows such as bay or bow styles offer you the ability to take geometry 3 dimensional. Use at least three sections or as many as eight to create a radius that gives you an expanded view into your back or front yards. For a ray of bright color, consider adding geometric windows with panes of colored glass in your kitchen or bathroom. Install these decorative stained glass accents in walls with a southern exposure for maximum effect.

A sunroom can be added to a home in any geographical area. However, sunrooms are generally not heavily insulated. This means they are a lot more comfortable when the weather isn’t too hot or cold. Where you live makes a difference in the materials, style, and construction considerations for your home addition. A lanai is one example of a sunroom that works best in very temperate parts of the U.S.

A lanai (also called a Florida room) is basically an upgraded patio, veranda, or terrace. The area is usually open or screened. It can be enclosed in glass if that suites your preference and your budget. Finely crafted woodwork sets the lanai apart from more standard sunrooms. Rather than being simply a box, it is intended to provide maximum aesthetic appeal.

That’s one reason this type of addition is generally customized to match and enhance the exterior of the existing home. If your house has a classic look, a lanai is a good choice for taking it up another notch and adding character.

Introduce tropical style to the interior of your sunroom with high quality wicker, earth toned tapestries, and vivid accent pillows. Add a palm frond style ceiling fan for a little extra cool.

When it comes to picking out new gutters for your house, you have several materials from which to choose. Aluminum, steel (galvanized or stainless), and vinyl are the most common choices. Vinyl is the cheapest material and is available in thicknesses from 1.7-2.2 mm. Durability is fairly low regardless of which gauge you choose; this material tends to turn brittle over time.

With metal gutters, the gauge does make a big difference. Thicker is better with .032 considered optimal. Steel doesn’t dent easily and aluminum is corrosion proof. Stainless steel is resistant to rust, but is more expensive than aluminum or galvanized steel. Copper is another option, but few homeowners choose this material because of its high upfront cost.

Profiles

There are 3 basic profiles for gutter channels. The basic U shape (also called the half round) is an open design that is easily accessible for cleaning. The K or ogee shape is one of the most common gutter profiles. It doesn’t have the highest capacity, but the indent along the front edge offers a little more structural support for thin gauge materials.

Fascia style rain gutters are designed to blend in with the trim on your house. They are one of the most attractive options. For any profile, you can choose a 5”, 6” or 7” size. Downspouts are generally either round or rectangular in cross section and may be smooth or corrugated. The amount of rainfall in your area plays a role in how large your gutters and downspouts need to be.

You should inspect your garage door at least once a year to make sure that there aren’t any worn or loose parts. Clean the rollers, pulleys, and cables; lubricate them with light oil. Also, spray or wipe a Teflon lubricant to the weatherstripping where it contacts the door.

The two extension springs that counterbalance the door’s weight should hold the door steady in a half-open position. If you want to increase the tension, you will need to shorten the lifting cable. You should NEVER service a torsion spring (the large horizontal spring above the door) without an expert there. It is very dangerous.

If the door is operating properly, it should reverse if it hits something. However, if the opener was made prior to 1982, they do not have a backup to this system; so they should be replaced.  Since 1993 all openers have to include a monitored backup system. It is a sensor that passes a light beam across the door opening. What happens is once the beam is interrupted the door will reverse, and if the beam sensor is unplugged the door will not operate. You cannot bypass the beam sensor.

Bathrooms present a challenge to homeowners in the ongoing battle to keep mold at bay. Using a vent fan to pull moisture out of the room only does so much to reduce humidity.

The materials you use in your bathroom play an important role in keeping this area of your home as dry as possible. Starting with a base of moisture resistant drywall is best. Then, you can choose from any of the following options as a finish.

Waterproof

Ceramic tile, glass, and laminate panels come closest to being fully water repellent. These are good materials to use for areas in your bathroom that will be splashed with water. When it comes to using glass, don’t assume you can only choose mirrored squares. Instead, look into stained glass tiles and other colorful, artistic styles.

You can mix and match any of these options in the same area. For example, use tile blocks to create a tiny mosaic trim around a laminate panel. This is easier than tiling an entire shower stall; you have the edge of the laminate to guide you in keeping the tile border straight.

Water Resistant

Vinyl wallpaper and glossy paint are somewhat resistant. They can be used in moist areas that don’t get hit directly with water. Paint and wallpaper that are suitable for use in a bathroom are usually labeled accordingly.

The paper should be thick vinyl with a canvas or other water resistant backing. Paint should be semi or high gloss. If you find a latex paint you like that isn’t specifically formulated for bathrooms, you can mix in an additive to make it resistant to water. This inhibits the growth of mold and prevents water spotting.

Screening is usually made from either fiberglass or aluminum. Aluminum is stronger than fiberglass, but it is subject to corrosion and harder to install. Make sure to use the same material and color as your other screens unless you are replacing all of your screens.  You can buy the screening in different lengths, either by the foot or in rolls. Purchase enough screening to cover the entire screen frame at with at least a 2-inch overhang on all sides.

The screen is held in place by a spline pressed into a groove in metal frames. Most of the splines are made from vinyl or rubber. As long as vinyl or rubber is still in good condition, you can reuse it. If the spline is dry or cracked, you will need to replace it. When replacing the spline, make sure you bring it with you to buy the new one. That way you can ensure a good fit.

If you have a wood frame, the screen is stapled directly to the frame it’s self. Use molding to cover the staples and the edges of the screen so it will have a neat appearance.