Archive for January, 2010

Pros and Cons of Fiber Cement Siding

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

If you are replacing siding on your home, there are a number of factors to consider. You will want to balance durability, functionality and practicality with cost for this project. Fiber cement siding is a viable option. It is made from sand, cement, and cellulose fiber.

Pros

Fiber cement siding is available in many different textures and sizes to imitate other types of home exterior materials. It can come in planks or sheets that look similar to wood or stucco. It is more fire resistant than most other siding products. It requires very little maintenance, and it will not rot or corrode.

Many manufacturers offer a 50 year warranty on fiber cement siding (with proper installation). Usually, only one coat of acrylic paint is required for full coverage over this surface. You can expect the paint to last at least 10-15 years.

Cons

Although the manufacturers provide installation and handling instructions, working with this material requires intermediate to advanced skill level. The pieces can be difficult to maneuver because of their extreme weight. Special saw blades are needed to cut the siding sections to the correct size.

The dust created by cutting through the siding can be hazardous if inhaled. Air filtration devices may be required for optimal safety and health. Dust collecting power tools are recommended. If you are uncomfortable with the idea of working with this material yourself, hire a qualified contractor.

Adding a Wet Bar to Your Kitchen

Friday, January 29th, 2010

A wet bar is a very useful addition to your home if you entertain regularly. The best spot for your wet bar depends on where you have an available water supply. That’s why kitchens are an optimal location – you can simply extend an existing line to bring water to the bar sink. This makes installation simple and relatively inexpensive.

You can make your wet bar a free-standing island or build it onto the end of a counter. Installing it as an extension to your breakfast counter is another option. Just be sure to leave enough room for a walkway at the end. Otherwise the flow of traffic into and out of your kitchen may be impeded – something you definitely don’t want during a party.

To maintain consistency, it is best to apply the décor theme from the rest of your kitchen to your wet bar. You may also add a few more exotic touches. Try an ornate chrome faucet, drawers with vintage glass pull knobs, or a marble counter top to give the area a sophisticated look.

Wet Bar Essentials

Besides a sink, there are a few things you should definitely include in a fully functional wet bar. An icemaker, a refrigeration unit, and storage space for glasses are must have items. Depending on your beverage preferences, you may also want a wine rack or a full-fledged liquor cabinet. 

Don’t feel like you have to add an ice bucket, espresso machine, and other accessories unless you have enough room. You don’t want your wet bar to be cluttered.

Putting Contact Paper in Your Kitchen Cabinets

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

Contact paper is a useful item for redecorating kitchens. It can be used in cabinets and on pantry shelving to provide semi-permanent protection from scratches and stains. High quality contact paper can be easily wiped down and sanitized. It can be installed in old or new cabinets on top of the bare particle board or over a coat of paint.

You can choose contact paper in a wide variety of patterns and colors. If your cabinet exteriors are painted white, a bright gingham or flowered contact paper provides a surprising contrast. There also specialized types of film lining that are skid resistant or have bug repellant properties.

Removing/Replacing Old Contact Paper

Is there already contact paper in place that you don’t really like? You aren’t stuck with it. A few removal tricks can make redecoration quick and painless. Use a hair dryer to warm the surface of the old contact paper and restore some flexibility in the plastic film.

The heat will also melt the underlying adhesive just enough so that a corner will easily peel back. From that corner, you can work the hair dryer gradually over the entire surface. Pull the contact paper off at the same time with your other hand. Work slowly so that the old paper is less likely to split into fragments as you peel it off. Once the paper is removed, residual adhesive needs to be wiped away. Use ‘Goo Gone’ or another citrus type cleaner.

Let the surface dry completely before attempting to put in the new contact paper. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation. Use a soft cloth to smooth the surface of the paper with gentle pressure from the palm of your hand.

Once all the bubbles are gone from underneath the paper, carefully trim away any excess with a pair of sharp scissors. A nice even edge on the contact paper will make your kitchen cabinets look professionally redone.

How to Make Roof Turbines Stop Squeaking

Saturday, January 23rd, 2010

Attic ventilation is extremely important. It keeps heat and moisture from accumulating in your home. Because spinning roof turbines (whirlybirds) have moving parts, they will eventually experience some kind of mechanical failure. You’ll know it is time to take action when you hear the annoying squeak or notice that a turbine is not moving anymore.

To access the turbine and fix the problem, you need to get on top of the roof. Remember to use proper safety procedures and be cautious. Bring along a can of WD-40 and some silicon based lubricant or sprayable lithium grease.

First, spray the pivot point with WD-40. This solvent should free the mechanism. While the problem may seem to be solved, that little squirt will not last for long. You need to grease/lubricate the pivot point for a more permanent solution.

Replacement Options

If this quick fix fails (or you must do it repeatedly), it is time to replace the whole turbine with a newer ventilation mechanism. You don’t necessarily have to purchase another whirlybird. There are some devices such as flat roof vents or Aura Vents that work without any moving parts. You just need to make sure that the product you choose will adequately handle sufficient air volume.

If you do decide to replace your roof turbine with another whirlybird, buy one that has permanently sealed ball bearings or plastic bushings. It is usually the ones with cheap metal bushings that begin to squeak within a few years of installation.

Window and Patio Door Security

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Windows and sliding glass patio doors on the first floor of a residence are among the most vulnerable home entry points. A determined thief can break the glass to get inside. However, most criminals don’t want to attract that much attention. There are many security strategies you can use to inconvenience, slow down, or call attention to a potential burglar.

Connect all windows and doors to a central alarm system. If a burglar decides to enter anyway, the time he has available to locate and carry out anything of value is greatly reduced. Place alarm company stickers on your windows as another disincentive.

Many standard patio door locking mechanisms are merely clasps. These simple contraptions can easily be forced with a screwdriver, pry bar, or even a butter knife. Simply placing a properly sized dowel rod or length of PVC pipe directly in the track of sliding patio door can discourage a would-be burglar. Removing the handles from casement windows is another quick fix

Install sturdier locking devices to serve as a backup. Track grips, pins, keyed sash locks and slide bolts, anti-sliding blocks/wedges, and specialty keyed locks are some of your available options. These are available at any home improvement store.

As a last resort, replace your windows with tempered or wired glass. Although this is an expensive solution, any attempt to break in through the glass will be extremely difficult and noisy. Burglar bars are another high-end solution.

Cool Frosted Glass Options

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Frosted glass is a favorite material for areas of the home where privacy is important. Bathrooms and bedrooms that have exterior windows are ideal locations to install frosted panels. If you have a home office, you could use this option to diffuse sunlight into your workspace and reduce glare.

You might also use this as a decorative concept in an entry way. The intention is to brighten an area without actually making it appear completely open. The soft glow of natural or artificial light through frosted glass creates a serene atmosphere.

Types of Frosting

Traditionally, frosted glass has been created at factories using sandblasting or acid etching processes. These panes can incorporate intricate designs such as falling leaves or geometric shapes.

Today, there are DIY kits you can use to apply a frosted appearance to your windows. These come in the form of films or sprays. With films, you must be careful not to get wrinkles in the material. For sprays, keeping the application even across the surface of the glass is the main challenge.

The newest and coolest type of frosted glass makes use of cutting edge technology. Switchable liquid crystal panes can be installed anywhere in your home. An electrical current is passed through the liquid crystal layer sandwiched between two panes of glass. The flick of a switch turns the window from transparent to opaque. You can use this type of material to block whatever type of light you choose, including a targeted spectrum of UV rays.

Window Replacement Materials

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Homeowners frequently select vinyl window replacements because they do not require painting and they are easy to maintain. The better quality the window is made out of the higher the price for the windows. Some vinyl replacement windows are actually wood windows with vinyl cladding (the exterior of the window is coated in vinyl). Homeowners like these ones because you get the natural wood look on the inside, and the low maintenance features on the outside.

Wood replacement windows are also still very popular. They are much more affordable and the homeowners like the natural wood look. The downside of wood windows is do require you to maintain them and paint them. Also, over time the window sill splits.

Metal/Steel window replacements are also another good alternative. The only downside of these windows is that they can be dented resulting in permanent damage.

Skylight Windows

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

There are many different Skylight options out there today. You can get Skylights made out of many different materials, sizes and styles and can be operational or fixed. You can even get them with integrated screens to help block out the sun if you wish.

In the beginning, skylight windows were only available in single pane glass. But today, skylights are available in multi-pane Low-E glass and also tinted coatings to reflect the suns rays and radiation block. That will help keep the home cooler.

You can also get ventilated skylights if you choose. You can open them with hand cranks, switch controlled motors, or you can even have them installed with an automatic temperature sense that is self controlled to open up to allow warm air to be vented out of a room. They also are available with insect screens.

All windows come with a selection of ultra-violet ratings and insulation for you to choose from. Normally, the better the skylight the higher U-values and R-values they have and they usually come with a much higher price tag. However, it is your home and it is always a good investment to go with the better product for the future.

Skylights are a really good natural lighting option and accent piece. You can always add this to a new home or make it a great home addition to your existing home. They are easily retrofitted into the home. So I suggest when you are thinking about adding a little light or brightness to your home, look into skylights and see if that’s an option.

Decorative Gutter Downspouts – Rain Chains

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Rain chains are Japanese style drainage mechanisms used in gutter systems. These are alternatives to downspouts. They use surface tension to help guide rain water gently to the ground. Although heavy rainfall can sometimes overwhelm this system, it doesn’t get clogged. The more surface area there is on the chain, the more water it can handle.

Some of these drainage devices are simple chain links that can be bought at hardware stores. You can easily make one of these yourself. Other rain chains are very ornate and include double and triple ring links or a series of copper cups. Figurines such as small fish or tiny umbrellas may be intermixed with the links. The artisans who make these chains can get very creative. This doesn’t compromise the rain chain’s ability to perform.

Installing Your Rain Chain

This is easy. All you need is a gutter installation clip and an anchor to mount the chain in the ground at the other end. Simply disassemble the old downspout from your existing gutters. Attach and secure the installation clip in the hole left by removing the old downspout. Fasten the rain chain to that clip.

Secure the other end of the rain chain by driving the anchor into the ground. Make sure the connection is strong and the chain is fairly taut. This prevents it from whipsawing back and forth during high winds.

It is also a good idea to place gravel or other small stones around the anchor. Bury the anchor several inches deep if possible. This helps keep the rainwater from eroding the soil around the anchor and causing it to loosen or break free from its mooring.

Coping With A Leaky Roof

Friday, January 15th, 2010

Water damage from a leaky roof can be swift and extensive if not dealt with immediately. Contractors are rarely available to repair a roof before your ceiling is completely saturated. The water will spread horizontally throughout the structure of your home unless you take emergency action to mitigate the situation. Coping with leaky roofing requires several steps, some of which must be done in rapid sequence:

Locate the leak – This may not be easy depending upon the location of the damage. Follow the drips, moisture, mold/mildew or water stains (in that order) to find the source of the leak.

Redirect the main flow of water – You will need buckets for this. They will act as reservoirs to protect against flooding of your living space. Place these containers underneath the drips and attach a string from the main flow of water to the bucket. Surface tension will help keep the water flowing along the string and safely into the bucket.

Limit the damage whenever possible – If necessary, poke a hole in the ceiling at the point where water seems to be building up. This will allow the drywall or ceiling panels to drain much more easily. Also, you can plan for where the water will fall and protect the area underneath.

Call a roofing contractor ASAP.
 
Apply a temporary repair patch if appropriate – This can be done with roofing cement, plywood, or tarp depending on the extent of the damage. Remember the rule, one piece of patchwork per leak.

Invest your home improvement funds to get the repair done properly.

If there is physical danger in taking any of these steps because of a potential collapse or fall hazard, wait for the arrival of a qualified contractor.

Hanging Wooden Shades in Bay Windows

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

If you add bay windows to your house, it can make the house feel brighter and more spacious. It will also add a touch of elegance to the home. Wooden shades in a bay windows are necessary to provide shade from sun rays and they also add a little privacy from the outside.

Measurements

You need to measure the bay windows before you buy any type of wooden shades to make sure that the size is correct. First measure the width of each of the window panes because some bay window panes are different sizes. Now measure the length of one of the window panes, the length of the window panes should be the same for each of them. You will need to add 2 inches to this measurement for the depth of the shades.

Hanging

When you hang them, measure 2 inches above the ceiling corners of one of the window panes and mark with a pencil. Next you will need to take the bracket and line it up with these marks. Now use a drill to lightly screw in the bracket. Keep doing this step with the other bay window panes. When you have finished with all the brackets and they have been lightly attached to the wall, use a screwdriver or drill to fasten them securely into place. When all the brackets are secured, the wooden shades can be attached to the brackets.

Installing Base Cabinets

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

Whenever you install base cabinets you’ll find out that they are trickier to install than wall cabinets. This is because the floor is almost never level, so you have more shunning to do. You also work around plumbing lines and that is never easy. Here is how to install them step by step.

Step1: Find the floor’s highest point where the cabinets will be installed. Now measure up 341/2 inches from that spot, and make a mark on the wall. Make sure you use a level to carry that point around the walls where the cabinets will go.

Step2: Mark wall studs for base cabinets that were not marked for upper cabinets.

Step3: You always want to start in a corner. Corner cabinets aren’t able to support a countertop on their own, so first install permanent ledger boards along the mark.

Step4: Align the adjacent cabinet with the corner unit before fastening anything in place. The standard cabinet will help ensure that the corner cabinet is positioned properly. Clamp the vertical stiles of the two cabinets’ face frames together with C-clamps. Now, you will need to drill countersunk pilot holes, then fasten them together with wood screws.

Step5: Use the level to make sure you have a perfect vertical and perfect horizontal. If you do not, use shims to make adjustments. Now fasten them into the wall with the screws driven into the wall studs that you found and marked earlier. Keep doing these steps adding one cabinet at a time by first attaching the stiles, then level it, and then screw it into the wall studs.

Final Step 6: You will need to cut holes for the plumbing lines when you install the sink base. Measure the locations of the pipes from the edge of the neighboring cabinet and up from the floor. Now transfer the measurements to the back and base of the cabinet. Mark where the holes are and cut them out with a spade drill bit for holes less than 1 ½ inches and a saw bit for the larger holes.