Bamboo is a very fast-growing renewable resource. It has been used for centuries in countries like China for all sorts of tools and building materials. It can be used as a substitute for a variety of items (including paper) that are normally made from wood or other fibers in the West.

Bamboo is lightweight; but it can be very hard as well. Quality bamboo floors tend to be about twice as hard as oak and extremely durable. The grain is similar in appearance to that of more traditional hardwoods making it an excellent substitute.

How Bamboo is Prepared

When high-quality bamboo is first harvested, it is already very strong. Boiling, chemical treatments, and gluing processes make it much stronger. It also becomes resistant to termites, scratches, and UV light damage.

The length of boiling time will control the carbonization of the grain. This determines the darkness and final look of the flooring. Once it is dried, it can be treated to resist moisture.

The Right Stuff

Several types of bamboo flooring are available. Solid bamboo is often not the most expensive option. Nor is it considered the best choice in many cases. The various treatments used to make the other kinds of bamboo flooring render them more durable. Some contractors consider the strand woven products to be the best.

Be cautious when you go shopping. While old growth bamboo is quite strong, new growth tends to be very soft. New growth products have recently flooded the market to keep up with demand. Such materials can be far inferior to hardwood flooring.

Purchase quality flooring from a reputable dealer who offers a reliable guarantee. Good bamboo products should last 25 years or more. Junk bamboo may need to be replaced after a single year. The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is the fingernail test. If your fingernail makes a mark in the material, it is poor quality.

Are you considering replacing your gutters? One alternative option developed by an MIT engineer is called the ‘Rainhandler’. Its design diverts rainwater from the roof over an area 2 to 4 feet beyond the eaves. There are no downspouts in this aluminum system. The rain is dispersed through specially designed slits upon reaching the edge of the roof.

One of the biggest advantages of this design is that it rarely gets clogged. It can be easily cleaned with a water hose and sprayer operated from ground level. This means you don’t have to worry about falling off a ladder while cleaning your gutters.

This rain handling system also prevents a ‘cutline’ from developing on the ground along the perimeter of the roof. This erosion feature is an ‘eyesore’ commonly seen in residential landscaping under traditional gutters that have become clogged or overloaded during a storm. Besides being unsightly, these depressions can permit pooling of water that will eventually damage a home’s foundation.

The only way a Rainhandler system could be overloaded is when three sloping roof sections meet to collect water at a single point. This might occur for a short span along the roofline of a U-shaped building. In such a unique circumstance, installing a very limited section of  traditional guttering is recommended. However, the rest of the building can still be adequately handled by the Rainhandler. 

A different alternative system called ‘RainbreakerZ’ features tiny perforations in stainless steel plates that are configured much like those of the Rainhandler. It works in a similar fashion - but the RainbreakerZ attempts to make a single large raindrop disperse through 19 separate holes. Theoretically this reduces the impact on the soil and vegetation below.

If you redo the trim on your house, you will probably want to paint your gutter system to match. The paint on galvanized materials often gets chipped over time. Vinyl gutters can become discolored as they age. A good coat of fresh paint can make these older gutters look like new again.

Basic Tips For Gutter Painting

For best results, disassemble the gutter system prior to cleaning and painting it. Vinyl gutters often come in lengths that will fit inside your garage. Extruded metal pieces generally run the length of your house and will have to be laid out and painted outdoors. Place all gutter sections on a flat surface away from dust and other debris.

Clean the gutters and downspouts thoroughly. All residue and grit must be removed from the surface so that the paint can adhere properly without peeling.

Get rid of all rust on metal surfaces. Use a wire brush and/or sandpaper when necessary. Paint remover may help in some circumstances. Finish cleaning any galvanized surfaces by wiping them down with mineral spirits or a similar solvent.

Use soap and a sponge to removed caked dirt from vinyl. Then, rinse the vinyl gutters thoroughly with water and let them air dry.

Metal gutters and downspouts need a layer of primer to treat the surface and ensure the paint sticks. Allow the primer coat to dry overnight. Vinyl parts don’t need primer, so you can skip this step for plastic gutters.

Use weather resistant exterior latex paint for vinyl parts. Galvanized metal gutters should be covered with an oil based paint designed for outdoor use. Allow plenty of time for each section to dry completely before reassembly.

Most hardwood flooring is made from either oak or maple and then stained to achieve the preferred tone or finish. If you have a beautiful hardwood floor, you want it to stay that way for decades. A hard, polyurethane protective coat on top of the wood finish can help. This layer tends to minimize deep scratches into the surface. However, despite your best efforts wood floors will eventually become scratched.

Fortunately, fixing these scratches is relatively easy

First assess the extent of the damage. Minor blemishes can be sanded smooth with steel wool or extremely fine sandpaper. More extensive ones will require heavier duty sandpaper. Always sand with the grain of the wood and do so slightly on either side of the scratch as well as directly over the damaged area itself.

Finish with 0000 steel wool (or very fine paper if you starting with a heavier grade). Wipe the area clean with a rag dipped in water for water based finishes and mineral spirits for oil or polyurethane based ones.

The repair area needs to match the rest of the wood finish. With minor scratches, the sanding may not have even reached the bare wood. For deeper scratches you may need to apply premixed wood filler or perform a subsequent stain touchup.

Dry Brush Finishing Method

Refinish the surface using the dry brush technique. Dip the very tip of a dry paint brush in varnish or polyurethane. The bristles should be almost completely dry before you touch them to your hardwood flooring. Brush lightly over the repair area with long strokes in the direction of the grain of the wood.

If you need more varnish, you can always brush on additional coats later. The idea is to not overdo it; this would create a puddle on the floor. Let the top coat dry over night; don’t let anyone walk on the repair site while it dries.

Paint is one of the cheapest and quickest fixes that you can do to your home. Your house will look better and if you are trying to sell, you will get back more money than you invested in the paint. There are many different types of paint to choose from. Oil, Latex, Sheen (Gloss), Color or Decorative Paint.

Oil vs. Latex: Latex is what most people use because it is water-based, durable, and easy to clean up. Oil (also known as alkyd) is still available in most parts of the country. It is a little harder to work with and it isn’t easy to clean up or dispose of, but it still have uses.

Sheen (Gloss): The glossier the paint, the easier it is to clean. The more flat or less glossy, the more it hides mistakes. You should use flatter sheens on most of the walls. Use glossier sheens on trim and in kitchens, and baths, all of which get a lot of splatters, fingerprints, and other abuse.

Color: Believe it or not, white is not the only color and white on white is not the only color scheme. Though it may seem “safe”, you can do so much more. Read literature and do some research and check which scheme would work best for you. When you are ready, buy a quart and put it in the section of the wall you want to paint, then paint the trim also and live in it for a few days and see if you still like it. If it’s a disaster, redo it. If you like, finish the house.

Decorative Paint: Sponging, dragging, stippling, texturing add a lot to a room and are easy to master. Before you start on your walls, get a piece of drywall and try different techniques and color schemes.

When your drain is stopped or really slow, it is seldom the result of collapsed or defective pipes. Blockage in the lines is usually caused from many different things. Mostly from solid waste, small objects, hair, or clumps of soap and grease. What you need to do is isolate the problem. If one of the fixtures seems to drain slow or not at all, check and see if the other fixtures have the same problem. If only one fixture is the problem, fill the sink with water. If the water drains for two seconds or less before clogging, the problem is in the trap. If two or more fixtures are clogged, the clog may be in the branch line, the main line, or the vent stack. When you isolate the affected area, it will help you decide how to clean out the line-and whether you need to hire a professional.

Remember, drain lines are very fragile. They are probably more fragile than you would expect because of all the fixtures attached to them. You will need to be careful when using chemicals and augering. Some chemicals can weaken the walls of the drain lines, and augers can shatter porcelain fixtures. If either one of those don’t work, try to snake the line, but work slowly and carefully. There is a risk when you use chemicals. It is best to avoid them if possible. But if you do decide to use one, be sure that you FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS when using it. Never use a drain cleaner on a clogged drain or in a toilet, and never pour acid in standing water.

There is no such thing as maintenance free gutters. They need to be regularly cleaned regardless of what type of anti-clogging device you install. The biggest difference in the various types of gutter protection systems is how easy they are to maintain. Certain gutter protection devices can help keep debris out. However, fancy screening equipment may also make cleaning your gutters even more difficult once they do eventually get clogged.

Meshes or Screens: This is a just mesh or screen installed as a cover on top of any type of traditional gutter. “Gutter Guard” is a well-known brand. While these do help marginally, smaller leaves and debris can still build up and impede the drainage system. Regular cleaning is a must.

Solid Covers with Open Edge Slots: These rely on water’s tendency to adhere to surfaces to direct the liquid into the slots. Debris simply falls off the edge onto the ground. “Gutter Helmet” is an example of this type of system. In a perfect world, this works. However, in a heavy downpour this can change. Torrents of water may direct small debris into the slots and cause drainage problems.

Gutter Filters: With a filter system, sponge-like foam is used to fill the gutter space. This allows water to drain through while preventing leaves and debris from getting into the system. “Gutter Filter” is one popular brand name. While these work well for a while, any filter will eventually clog. Generally, very small dirt and debris fill up the pores of the filter. This type of debris is difficult to flush out.

Insulating your sunroom is the only way to make it usable all year round. Many sunrooms are designed with the assumption that they will not be heated during the winter months. If you intend to heat yours, it needs to be well insulated and sealed for maximum energy efficiency.

Glass Insulation

Windows enclose much of the area in a sunroom. You need additional strategies to increase the R-value of glass. If you can afford to do so, always use at least double pane glass. The gap between the layers is filled with an inert gas that increases the insulating capacity of the entire windowpane. Ensure that all windows are properly glazed and sealed to prevent leakage around the edges.

Low-e rated windows have multiple layers of metal coating that is invisible to the naked eye but blocks harmful rays. This can protect any furniture in the sunroom and also acts as a thermal regulator. Triple pane glass combined with this feature gives sunroom windows an R-value of about 4.35. This should be enough to keep out the hot air in the summer and maintain warm air inside during the winter.

Wall Insulation

Wherever possible, you should install high quality batt insulation with increased R-value. It should be at least R-13 instead of the normal R-11 for walls, and R-38 for ceilings instead of the normal R-30. Make sure there are no gaps in the construction. Fiberglass batt insulation must be cut to fit properly. You may need to purchase special types of insulation for unusually shaped spaces.

Install a vapor retardant layer over insulation before the wall board or plywood is fixed in place. The wall board you use for the interior top layer should have an additional R-4 to R-8 rating per inch on top of everything else. If your sunroom floor is raised above the ground, you will also need to insert insulating materials such as closed cell boards in that space.