Common tree species used for residential siding include cedar, pine, spruce, redwood, cypress, and Douglas firs. Sometimes plywood is also used. The wood is graded for quality. Clear heartwood is considered the premium wood siding material. Below that, lesser grades include A Clear, B Clear, Select Knotty, Quality Knotty, Proprietary, and Standard. Each type of wood can be used to make various styles of siding.

Clapboard – These are long rectangular boards that are squared off. They are installed horizontally in an overlapping manner. Clapboard is one of the oldest types of wood siding. You see it on many historic homes.

Bevel – Beveled siding is installed horizontally much like clapboard. The major difference is that one edge is thinner than the other on the opposite side. It’s sort of like a wedge shaped clapboard and is just a modern version of that time-honored design. One face of each board is generally saw-textured. On some products both sides are textured.

Wood Plank – Wood plank is installed vertically and can come in a variety of styles and shapes. Some of these include board on board, channel-groove, or tongue and groove.

Shingles & Shakes – Wood shingle siding is very similar to roofing shingles except these are installed over the sides of the building. Red cedar is a favorite material for shake siding. The shingles are wedge shaped. Installation is done with a nail gun and the shingles overlap vertically. Shakes are basically the same, except they are much thicker than shingles.

Wood Composite – Compressed mixtures of glue, wood chips and other types of debris are used to make sturdy boards. In some respects a composite is similar to plywood, except it does not have a nice wood finish. This material tends to be far less expensive than any other kind. It can be cut to look like any type of traditional siding.

One of the reasons replacement windows are such a popular home improvement item is that they have an impact on both the exterior and interior of a house. They really set the atmosphere in each room. For rooms that could feature a lovely view, replacing small windows with single larger window can add quite a bit of value and appeal to a home.

Picture

A large picture window is one option for enhancing a room with a view. The largest possible picture window you can buy for your home may depend on the type of frame you want. Some manufacturers of residential windows only offer sizes up to 5’x8’ or 6’x7’ in a single pane. Additional panes can be added in geometric shapes at the top or sides of the large pane to increase the overall size of the window. Of course, a local commercial glass company can usually custom make any dimension of double paned picture window glass you’d like.

Bay/Bow

Unlike picture windows, bay or bow windows are generally made in 3 separate pieces and come in standard sizes as large as 10.5’x6.5’. They can create a much more open feel for the interior of a room because they “bow” out from the wall. Plants or other decorative items that might otherwise take up space in the room can be placed in the sunshine and out of the way on the interior window ledge. So, a deep bay window creates the effect of adding more square footage to the home without the expense of building a new room.

Making a Choice

What style will match the existing architectural feel of your home? Bay windows with inset seats are a typical choice for Victorian styles. In contrast, a large picture window or a series of several picture windows may be more appropriate for the front façade of a more modern home. However, bay windows can still be installed for kitchen, dining, or living room spaces that overlook a back yard.

Does one of your bathrooms have a mysterious leak? It may be difficult to figure out where the water is coming from at first. However, you need to find out as soon as possible if the leak is from a valve, drain or some other place. Otherwise, you may end up spending more money than necessary ripping stuff out and having it replaced.

Follow the water trail to its source

When you find water standing on the bathroom floor, your first though might be that it must be coming from a water pipe or drain. While this is possible, it is not always the case. If the toilet is nearby, it should be ruled out as the culprit. Also, make sure the pool of water on the floor was not simply splashed there by someone using the sink.

Check for moisture around the surrounding drywall. Nine times out of ten, water is coming from behind the wall. If the wall is wet all the way to the ceiling, water might be coming from a source outside of the bathroom. For example, a roof leak may simply end up near the tub.

Inspect the caulking, grout and seals around the bathtub. If they are deteriorated, water may be seeping through these areas and soaking the drywall when the tub or shower is in use. Allow the bathroom tub or shower to dry out for about 48 hours.  If the drywall remains wet, you probably have a constant slow leak from a pipe.

If the area dries out, you know the leak is caused by bathroom use in some form or fashion. Sometimes people unknowingly splash water from the shower or the tub onto the adjacent floor. They simply do not notice until it becomes a large puddle. Adding small rubber dams around the corners of the tub and making sure the shower curtain liner stays inside the tub rim will limit this problem.

Lightning rods are most commonly installed on the roofing of high rise buildings and houses located on hill tops. These structures are most vulnerable to million volt bolts. Lightning strikes on low houses are rare enough that most homeowners don’t worry much about them. However, when a lightning bolt does connect with an unprotected house it can destroy all the electrical systems present. Phone lines and metal plumbing are potential conduits for electricity from the lightning strike to cause injury to people inside the home.

It’s good to know that most home owner’s insurance will cover damage from a lightning strike. The insurance carrier will investigate the legitimacy of the claim by tracking the weather and checking satellite lightning strike data. However, it will take time to repair extensive damage. Preventing this inconvenience and protecting expensive electronics may be worth the expense of installing a lightning protection system. This is especially true for luxury homes that are several stories tall.

A lightning protection system generally has 5 parts:

1. A series of Air Terminals (the actual lightning rods) installed along the highest points of the roof
2. A braided conducting cable that connects the rods with the grounding elements
3. Ground rods or plates to redirect the electricity into the earth away from the home
4. High grade metallic bonds to the keep parts together during the surge
5. Surge arrestors to protect the home from indirect strikes on nearby electrical lines

Lighting protection systems add stress to the roofing system. Care must be taken to ensure that leaks do not occur from mounting the rods and cable. Extra flashing may be needed to ensure a proper seal around the various components.

When homes are designed, the pantry is often simply tucked in a corner that is “leftover” and not useful as open kitchen space. However, this can mean the pantry interior features odd angles and is too cramped to turn around in.

During a remodel that involves making your kitchen larger, don’t forget to convert your pantry from a broom closet into a nice walk-in room. This kind of pantry shouldn’t make you feel like a sardine in a can, so don’t skimp on space. 30” is a comfortable walkway width for most people – but this doesn’t include the area taken up by shelving along the wall. Keep this in mind when you are deciding if you really have enough room for a walk in pantry. The shape of this space should, of course, be rectangular if you want to make use of modular containers, bins, and shelving kits available for kitchens from places like The Container Store or Home Depot.

Tuck Appliances Out of Sight

Strategically placed electrical outlets in your new pantry will allow small counter-top appliances to be hidden away, yet close at hand. These plugs can be located in hidden corners on or near the ceiling or floor. This means quality wall space is not unnecessarily obstructed. Some of these power conduits can be used to recharge batteries and cell phones completely out of the way from open living areas.

Don’t Cram Your Space with Stuff

Some walk-in pantries are large enough to include secondary refrigerators or freezers. Only put one of these in if you won’t have to crawl/reach over it or squeeze by it to access your pantry shelving. Otherwise, you’ve defeated the purpose of having a walk in pantry.

Go Wide Instead of Deep

You may need to make your pantry wider rather than deeper depending on the layout of your home. In that case, you can put accordion doors on the pantry to keep it separate from your kitchen but still allow immediate access when you need to grab some pasta for dinner. A shallow pantry is actually a very efficient design since the shelving will not be so deep that canned goods get lost and go out of date while you’re not paying attention.

The main component of any screen is the mesh itself. Your choices include: solar, fiberglass/vinyl, insect control, aluminum, bronze, pet resistant, security or alarm screens. Each has its own unique properties – but screens are usually designed with multiple functions in mind. Replacement screens and their frames can sometimes be bought already assembled in one package. However, these won’t always fit older windows so you may need to make your own replacement screens.

Purchasing Replacement Materials

Window screens need to be replaced when they get torn or damage beyond repair. The easiest and usually least expensive way is to keep the original frame, remove the damaged mesh, and insert new screening with the proper width of spline.

If a new frame is needed, make sure you get the right size. Outside dimensions are not the only determining factor. Different windows require different thickness of metal frame. You don’t want to discover that the new screen you bought won’t fit inside the guides of your existing window.

Measure the spacing between those guides and test the fit before you actually build a new frame from a kit. The corner pieces available at home improvement stores are often slightly thicker than the lengths. Keep this in mind when testing for appropriate size. Also, make sure you purchase a color that won’t clash with your home exterior.

Instructions for Installation

With the exception of alarm screens, installation can be done following the same basic steps for all screen types with only minor adjustments. Cut the mesh to cover the outside dimension of the frame. This will give you a little extra material to work with so you don’t end up with a gap between the mesh and the frame. The spline will pull the screen into the slot provided by the frame as you seal it in place with the roller tool. If you make a mistake at this point, you can pull out the spline and start over. When the screen is completely taut, carefully cut any extra mesh away from the edges. Now, pop the screen into place over the window and you’re done!

Slippery moisture buildup is common on all bathroom surfaces. On the floor, this creates a slip and fall hazard for children, elderly individuals, and persons with disabilities. Of course, anyone can slip on a pool of water if they aren’t paying attention – such as when they are trying to shower and rush to work in the morning. It makes sense to proactively limit the hazards created by smooth flooring in your bathrooms.

A common solution is a decorative bath mat that lies outside the tub or shower. This absorbent surface captures a lot of the water that follows you out of the bath, but some usually gets tracked out onto the rest of the floor. A better and more permanent solution is to install nonskid products over the entire bathroom floor, not just in one spot. Carpeting is a possibility, but most nice thick carpets act like a sponge to soak up moisture. Then, it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria, mold and fungus.

Add Tiles That Reduce Slipperiness

Special nonskid safety tiles are available that can be added to existing floors. These can be sized to fit any space. The tiles can easily be cleaned, removed and replaced as needed. Antiskid tiles can be laid directly on the original hard flooring making installation costs manageable.

This quick fix is sanitary and safe with minimal maintenance required. These tiles can even be made of materials that will provide a soft landing area should a fall occur despite precautions. A variety of available colors allows you to augment the décor of the rest of the bathroom. If you are ready to sell your house later, the antiskid tiles can be removed to reveal the beauty of the original floor beneath.

Coat Your Existing Floor To Add Texture

Alternatives to non-skid tile include textured coatings that are painted onto the flooring surface. Durability depends a great deal on properly matching these coatings with materials they must adhere to. This type of substance is not easily removed but may be less expensive in the short term. If your existing bathroom floor consists of linoleum, you may not mind coating it with this kind of skid protection material as a stop gap measure until you can afford a permanent flooring upgrade.

Fixed, hanging, and adjustable are the three types of mirrors most commonly used in bathrooms. Most vanities require some sort of mirror. Often these may be part of an inset medicine cabinet. Additional mirrors can be added easily during remodeling. Wall mirrors in particular can make the bathroom space seem much larger than it actually is. Here are several installation methods to explore:

Bracket

Most bathroom mirrors come with L shaped brackets for quick and easy installation. There should be at least 4 included in the package, but larger sized mirrors may require more. Ideally, the supports will help keep the mirror secure and level while remaining inconspicuous themselves. Oversized bathroom mirror brackets are decorative in design and need extra support. Wall studs can often brace them sufficiently so they don’t pull away from the wall or damage the mirror.

Hanging

Framed mirrors can sometimes be hung like pictures or paintings on a wall. This type of mirror is often found in “designer” bathrooms. This approach to hanging mirrors requires extra care. Any wire mounts must be sturdy enough to support the extra weight of the mirror. Otherwise, your expensive mirror may have a short lifespan.

Mounted

Large framed mirrors are usually given extra support which may include a set of sturdy mounts. These mounts can typically support much more weight than L shaped brackets. Extra sturdy mounts are required for adjustable (telescoping) mirrors that can be pulled forward away from the wall. These are typically set in a vertical series with several screws that hold a manufactured hinge in place.

Adhesive Installation

Special adhesive or glue is used to attach a single mirror or a series of mirror-surfaced tiles onto a flat wall. This is a permanent solution that can look seamless when done properly. Mistakes cannot be corrected easily – so always measure and level the pieces first. Removal of the mirror will likely damage the wall, the mirror, or both.

Termite damage is more common than most people think. Often, infestations go undetected until heavy damage has already occurred. It is important to inspect your home perimeter regularly for castings and other evidence of termites. The best protection is prevention. This may include laying down ‘termiticides’ prior to pouring the foundation of a new home.

Any wood attached to the house should be at least 6 inches from the soil (18” is ideal). Termites are attracted to wet environments near wood, so proper drainage is a priority. Reduce moisture accumulation from around the foundation and within crawl spaces. Wood siding should be painted every 2 to 5 years to maintain a barrier against these insects.

Act Quickly

Homeowner’s insurance generally will not cover termite damage, so you are on your own if an infestation occurs. If you suspect any wood siding damage is the result of termites, consult professional pest control immediately. Don’t wait. The problem will quickly get worse and serious structural damage may be the result of procrastination. It is also important to note that termite damage can occur no matter what preventive steps you have taken.

First, get rid of the cause of the damage through pest control. Then, concentrate on fixing the actual damage.  You can do small jobs yourself, but large projects beyond the replacement of a few boards will require professional help. The true extent of the damage may not be discovered until the obviously deteriorated wood siding is removed. A close inspection around and underneath the work area should be done to identify hidden defects that could pave the way for further damage from the elements.

The installation or replacement of roof flashing requires experience and attention to detail. Extensive installation and repair jobs are best left to professionals. A properly completed flashing project involves the layering of several roofing materials using methods and equipment that aren’t in the average homeowner’s “toolbox”. Any mistake will make a roof susceptible to a severe leak.

While you might not want to handle a DIY flashing repair job, you can periodically inspect both perimeter and joint flashing for weathering defects. Then, you can call a contractor out to prevent or limit damage to your roofing. This is not usually an expensive repair as long as you catch the problem early on.

Inspection and Repair Basics

Flashing is designed to redirect the flow of water in potential leak areas away from underlying material in a sloped roof. It typically does this by having the top edge of the aluminum or galvanized metal flashing piece lie slightly underneath the underlayment material, while the bottom edge lies on top of the upper section of lower layers of shingles.

Top layers of flashing are typically seen around vents, chimneys, and roof intersections with walls (such as around dormers). This creates a waterproof barrier that needs to be sealed with caulking or roof cement. This layering system is designed to withstand expansion and contraction due to seasonal changes in humidity and temperature.

In the case of perimeter flashing, the bottom edge will hang slightly over the edge of the roof along the spot where gutters are installed. This makes it convenient to inspect flashing anytime the gutters are cleaned or require maintenance. A quick look at the surface of the material is usually sufficient to let you spot any problem.

Cracks in old sealants or loose nails need to be discovered early before water penetration occurs. This is especially true for areas where heavy runoff tends to pool on the roof’s surface. A DIY flashing maintenance project will include cleaning and re-securing the layers, then applying new sealant.

Eco-friendly kitchen remodeling incorporates strategies that lead to more sustainable living – without sacrificing comfort or convenience. With some forethought you can actually save money over the long run by making “green” choices. The following are ten simple and easy ways to make your kitchen more environmentally sensitive – and healthier for your family:

1. Purchase an Energy Star rated refrigerator. Older fridge models are generally the biggest ‘energy hog’ in the kitchen, so a more efficient unit will save you the most money on your electric bill.
2. Donate old appliances or cabinets that are still in good condition to organizations like Habitat for Humanity. This saves a lot of landfill space and helps out those truly in need at the same time.
3. Remember that cabinets and appliances can sometimes be refinished/refurbished to look new. You might have this done as part of the remodeling plan. When this is not possible, make sure the materials and equipment that cannot be reused are sent out for recycling. Ask your contractor about eco-friendly disposal options in your area.
4. Choose products that come from renewable sources. An example would be cork floors.
5. Use concrete and glass. These are family friendly materials because they do not give off toxic fumes.
6. A viable option for flooring is terrazzo made from recycled materials and resin. This type of tile resembles marble.
7. Vetrazzo is a highly durable material made from recycled glass. It is often used for countertops and is as tough as granite. Beautiful backsplash tiles can be made from recycled glass too.
8. Use hypoallergenic materials and those that don’t give off VOCs (such as formaldehyde) whenever possible.
9. Better and more intelligent placement of appliances can make them operate at their highest possible efficiency. Keep the refrigerator away from outdoor light and the stove or other obvious heat sources.
10. Use Energy Star rated CFL bulbs for your most frequently used kitchen lights.

Are you remodeling one or more bathrooms in your home? Installing a new commode may be at the top of your list. With such a basic appliance, it is surprising how many different options you really have. It can actually be confusing to go to the home improvement store and see all these models that appear similar but vary so much in price. Here are some of the options that are available:

Overall Shape

The most easily recognizable difference in commodes is the shape of the bowl. Standard variations are the round and elongated basins. Your best choice for this feature will depend on which design you find most comfortable (people with short legs often prefer a round seat). You may also want to avoid installing an elongated bowl commode in a very small bathroom since it takes up a little more space.

Toilets also come in different throne heights that can affect user comfort. Other variations include the one piece (with the tank and base manufactured as a single unit) and the wall mounted commode that doesn’t have a base. The cost of installation generally goes up with these non-standard models.

Flushing Performance

A typical commode uses the force of gravity to pull water from the tank down into the bowl and toward the drain. Pressure and vacuum assisted toilets offer a little extra boost to ensure flushing is completed efficiently. Older commode models used as much as 7 gallons of water per flush. These days, you can find models that use a little over a gallon and a half. Check the packaging for the EPA approved WaterSense label to identify models that will save you money on your water bill over the long run.