Most people think of natural light when they consider brightening up a room with a window. But you lose this light source after dark. At night, window lighting can be used to simulate daytime illumination. The illusion of daylight on the interior space can be transformative. It offers a very different visual effect than traditional overhead lighting. From the exterior, the indirect lighting can be highly decorative at the same time making window lighting dual purpose.

Warm, full spectrum LED or fluorescent light around a window is just one option. You can choose any color to enhance the interior décor or mark a particular holiday with window perimeter lights. Rope lighting can be added along all four sides, the top, or just the window sill. Or, small lamps can be added at the corners. Button lights such as those typically installed under cabinets in the kitchen could be used for window sill lighting in some situations.

Window lights can also be directed toward the outside perimeter of the home for security reasons. These make it difficult for anyone to approach the window without being noticed. Burglars tend to shy away from well lit areas at night and look for easier targets.

Drapes, curtains, shades, blinds or any other window treatments can be accented with well placed lighting. In fact, light itself can be a window treatment. This is especially true for windows around a sunroom at night. The light reflections off the glass can give a mirrored effect to the room and make it seem much less gloomy.

Natural lighting for bathrooms can come from two different sources. The first is a window in an exterior wall. The alternative is a skylight. These can look like a window in the ceiling; or they can be a bit more inconspicuous, such as a solar tube.

It’s often simply inconvenient to have a normal window in the bathroom. It takes up too much wall space that can be used for other things such storage, mirrors, etc. For a bathroom that is centrally located, a window isn’t an option at all. In contrast, skylights are out of the way and do not require an exterior wall.

Some people suggest installing skylights with venting units that can be opened to increase airflow and reduce humidity in the bathroom. Often, such systems are inconvenient to operate. They simply don’t get opened nearly as often as they should. A completely sealed, fixed skylight unit is usually a better choice. A separate vent fan unit should be installed to control the ventilation in the bathroom properly.

Additional Considerations in Skylight Selection

If a roof has load bearing trusses in the area over the bathroom, a large skylight can be a significant problem to install. While conventional rafters can be adjusted, trusses should be left alone. An improper redistribution of the loads could cause the roof to eventually warp or even collapse. A possible solution to avoid this is to install several small skylights instead of just a single large one.

Tubular skylights can be more efficient at capturing the sunlight from any angle and diverting it into an interior bathroom. They’re typically easier to install than rectangular types and will fit into most tight spaces.

Don’t buy the cheapest brand. Over several years seals can break. Condensation can build up on the glass. Rain can seep into an already humid environment. It’s best to buy a brand with a lengthy warranty that is durable enough to last for most of the lifetime of the house.

Most kitchens these days have some sort of vent over the stovetop. Standard range vents for kitchens need to be able to handle at least 120 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air. If you cook a lot or the range vent is too noisy, it may be time to upgrade your unit.

The three types of range vents are duct, convertible, and ductless.

Duct range vents direct cooking smoke and steam to the outside of the home. These vents may or may not have a filter connected to them. Modern duct range vents will have a cap that is usually installed on the roof. Depending on the power of the system and how active the kitchen is expected to be, this may include its own filter.

Convertible range hoods can be used with either ductless or duct systems. This is handy because you don’t have to immediately install a duct system to make it operational. But installing a duct system will vastly increase its power and efficiency. The advantage of this kind of range hood system is that it will fit most residential cooking needs.

Ductless range vents rely exclusively on filters to clean the grease and grime from the smoke and circulate the clean air back into the kitchen. Those that use charcoal filters can remove odors, but they must be periodically replaced. Some use an aluminum filter that can be cleaned with soap and water. Filters must be washed or replaced often (every 3 to 6 months) to maintain the vent’s peak operating efficiency. Typically these will not have the power to handle nearly as much airflow as the other two types of range hoods. For homeowners who don’t cook much, these are still a viable option.

It is always a good idea to install GFCI outlets in bathrooms for the highest level of safety. These ground fault circuit interrupter outlets provide an added level of protection from short circuits in areas that may get damp. These are essential for reducing the risk of electrical shock. Many newer homes have these in place already, but older houses require an upgrade.

Along with your GFCI outlet terminal, purchase a circuit tester plug or analyzer. These are available at hardware or home improvement stores. You will use this device to check for any potential problems with the existing wiring. If you find that an outlet has been incorrectly wired, you need to fix it before installing a new GFCI outlet. Most GFCI outlets have test and reset buttons for periodic maintenance. These are not the same thing as the circuit analyzer and don’t serve the same purpose.

Replacing a Receptacle

1. Test the existing outlet with the analyzer to make sure it’s wired correctly
2. Turn off the power to the receptacle at the circuit breaker box
3. Remove the outlet cover
4. Unscrew the receptacle plug from the electrical junction box
5. Pull it out of the junction box to gain easy access to the wiring
6. Mark all wires so that you know which ones are which. There should be 3 types of wires: positive, negative, and ground. Additionally, there might be 2 or more sets of these in the box. It will depend on whether there are additional outlets on the same circuit. Keep track of which are line wires and which are load wires too.
7. Disconnect the marked wires from the old receptacle’s terminal screws
8. Connect those wires onto the new GFCI outlet terminals. The line wires coming directly from the circuit breaker box should be connected to the appropriate line terminals. All other wires need to be connected to the matching ones that are marked ‘load’.
9. Mount or screw on the new receptacle to the junction box
10. Install a new electrical outlet gasket that fits over the receptacle
11. Reinstall the cover
12. Turn the power back on
13. Retest the outlet with the analyzer
14. Test all outlets on the same circuit to make sure they all work properly too

When you upgrade your bathrooms, don’t forget to consider putting in a fancier door as well. Bathroom doors need not be a simple 24” white painted wooden construction. There are a variety of choices and themes available.

Accessibility

The door frame can be expanded to make the room fully accessible. This requires some carpentry and drywall experience, but can be completed in a weekend. Additionally, the bathroom door can be hung in reverse so that it opens outward into a hallway rather than inward. This sometimes allows more space to get in and out. A swing away door hinge can also be installed to add an extra 2” of clearance.

A Distinctive Look

The door itself can have frosted glass insets to give it an entirely new feel. This affords privacy, but the light shines through. It is also easy to tell whether the room occupied. Stain glass in particular turns the bathroom door into artwork.

Hardware can also be updated to change the look of an existing door. Install a new handle or door knob that is decorative and functional for an affordable makeover. Or, you could consider painting the side of the door that faces into the bathroom to make it match or compliment your new wall coverings.

A Practical Approach

Accessories can be added onto existing doors or built into a new door. This includes door hooks for hanging your bathrobe, clothes, or an extra towel. A storage rack can be added for other bathroom accessories as long as the unit doesn’t keep the door from opening fully. Remember to ensure the hinges are screwed in place tightly since added weight on the door can place strain on the hinge mechanisms.

Most modern kitchens have a garbage disposal to take care of food scraps. This is a nice amenity, but clogs and blockages are a pretty frequent occurrence. If your kitchen garbage disposal rattles or makes a lot of noise, it could be a sign that maintenance is required. Excessive vibrations from the garbage disposal can loosen screws and bolts over time. If abnormal sounds are ignored, significant damage to the pipes and sink is possible. Objects stuck in the disposal can easily prevent it from working altogether.

Fixing a Jam

The culprit could be as simple as something hard like a piece of glass or metal spoon caught inside. This must be removed as soon as possible. Never stick your hand inside a garbage disposal. It’s dangerous for three different reasons. First, the power could inadvertently be turned on while your hand is inside. Second, your hand could get stuck inside causing injury. Third, whatever is caught inside may be sharp and jagged and could easily cut you.

Emergency Maintenance

• Disconnect the electrical power from the disposal.
• Use tongs to remove anything loose inside.
• Check to see if the impeller lugs are rotating (these are sometimes referred to as blades; but they are not actually sharp). Use a large screwdriver for a brace and rotate the lugs manually with it. If they move freely, then the problem could be the motor. If it was stuck, physically rotating the lugs can release enough tension for the disposal to operate normally again.
• Make sure all screws, bolts and pipes are connected securely.
• Reconnect the power and test the disposal’s operation again. Always run cold water down the disposal while it is turned on. This lubricates the system, keeps it cool, and protects the seals from any potential overheating.

If removing a jam doesn’t work, the motor may have seized. If so, it is probably time to replace the garbage disposal. Consider a quieter or more powerful model rather than picking the one with the lowest price. Upgrading your garbage disposal is a smart and cost effective home improvement project and paying a little extra for quality is well worth it.

Gutters are recommended for most homes. But whether they are absolutely necessary depends on the answer to 2 major questions:

1. How much rain must the roof handle?

2. Where does the water drain?

Without gutters, a building needs some feature that ensures rain runoff is directed safely away from its foundation. If the overhang from the roof is extended far enough, the water will drain a safe 6 feet away. This is an unusual circumstance. Eaves on most homes stick out only 2 to 3 feet.

If the building is located in an arid climate where there is very little rain, then gutters might not be required. Again, this is a highly unusual situation. So, most buildings require properly maintained gutters of some sort.

Why Don’t New Homes Have Gutters?

Some builders have been known to leave gutters off new houses. The reason is fairly simple. Guttering can create warranty issues with eaves and overhangs because the gutter needs to be nailed into the fascia. There, it can create wear and tear and water damage over time. Crafty construction businesses know gutters are required. Yet they want other companies to handle the warranty for this work. This can save them a lot of money over an extended period of time.

Building contractors can get away with this because homes often look finished without gutters. If a buyer of a new home asks about gutters, the builder can always recommend another company to do the work. Their excuse is often that they are not in the gutter business and custom built ones will work better anyway. So, if you are planning to buy a new home, remember to ask for an additional discount to cover the cost of having gutters installed.

Wainscoting is a centuries-old paneling technique that protects the lower part of walls. It’s generally limited to the bottom 3 to 5 feet above the baseboard. These wall sections used to be much more susceptible to damage from moisture than they are today. However, wainscoting also protects walls from bumps and scratches from furniture – so it’s still useful. Many homeowners install it as a decorative feature in kitchens and dining room areas. The exterior design of the kitchen cabinets often serves as inspiration for the design and color of wainscoting.

Decorative molding marks the upper limit for the wainscoting and is sometimes called the chair rail. Typically the horizontal molding strip is placed approximately at countertop height (or 1/3 of the way up the wall from the floor). Its primary function is to serve as decoration to cover the cut edge of the beadboard.

In the kitchen, this feature also ensures clearance for appliances. An appliance doesn’t bump directly into the wall because the molding behind it sticks out a bit. This strip of molding needs to be properly mitered at the corners so that it fits together and appears to be one single piece. It covers the entire perimeter of the room and should have as few seams as possible. It also needs to be absolutely level to look good.

Generally, matching the appearance of the baseboard and upper molding creates a pleasing effect. Or, the baseboard can be wider than the upper trim. The baseboard and molding are installed on top of the wainscoting boards or paneling.

As an alternative to beadboard paneling, extra cabinet doors (without the knob or hinges) can be used as accent pieces to cover lower wall sections or the lower portion of a center island. This is a more expensive option, but has a very aesthetic appearance on walls that are brightly painted.

Many homeowners are hesitant to consider a tile roof because of misconceptions about this material. However, this is actually the most popular roofing material across the globe. Here are some facts from the Tile Roofing Institute that deliver the straight scoop.

Weight Not Usually a Problem

Clay and concrete tiles are heavier than many other types of shingles. It’s a feature – not a bug. The weight of the roof material is a key factor in its stability and strength. This is especially important for areas where ice buildup is common. Most modern homes are able to support a tile roof. For houses that can’t handle traditional tile, lightweight varieties are available.

Resistance to Extreme Weather Events

When properly installed, air penetrates through the tile layer – reducing stress on the roof. At the same time, tile sheds water very well. Because of these characteristics, tile holds up better than asphalt shingles to tornadoes, hurricane force winds/rain, and hail storms. These weather resistant features have been lab tested with wind tunnels and ice cannons. Tile is also the only roofing material that has been tested for its ability to withstand earthquake activity. Class A fire resistance is another attractive benefit of tile.

Minimal Maintenance

Maintenance is required, but generally restricted to areas such as the gutters and flashing. Because of the modularity of tile roofing installation, damaged tiles can be replaced individually. Warranties on this material are generally 50 years (or longer). The color of the tile may fade a little over time, but the process is very gradual since the pigment is usually incorporated into the material itself.