As discussed in part 1 of this series, if you spot a water leak in one of your bathrooms, it is important for you to act promptly. This means you need to know where the main water valve is located ahead of time. That way, you can shut it off as soon as possible to prevent extensive damage. The main line shut off valve is usually outside of the house near the water meter. Make sure you have access to this area in case of an emergency. Auxiliary shut off valves are usually behind the toilet and under the sink basin. Once the water is turned off, clean the area and follow the water trail. You should be able to identify the general vicinity where the leak started.

Moisture Detection Tip

There should be a clear dripping pattern or stain in the area of the leak. This can often be observed from underneath the basin of a sink. If it seems to be dry, then use a paper towel to probe the entire area. If the towel soaks up any moisture, then you know where the leak is.

If you suspect that the leak is coming from elsewhere in the bathroom, that’s OK. The same paper towel trick can be used along any pipe connection, valve, or handle. You can also confirm the specific spot by temporarily turning the water back on. That way you can tell if the water is coming from a pipe under pressure or if it is leaking from a drain.

Additional Bathtub Drain Check

Tub drainage pipes can become dislodged or a seal might break. To confirm a bathtub drainage leak, you will need to fill up the tub with water using buckets filled from another location such as the bathroom sink. This is inconvenient but necessary. That’s because you need to isolate whether the leak is a drain, faucet, or showerhead. If you run water from the tub faucet, this will make it more difficult to identify where the water is coming from.

Does one of your bathrooms have a mysterious leak? It may be difficult to figure out where the water is coming from at first. However, you need to find out as soon as possible if the leak is from a valve, drain or some other place. Otherwise, you may end up spending more money than necessary ripping stuff out and having it replaced.

Follow the water trail to its source

When you find water standing on the bathroom floor, your first though might be that it must be coming from a water pipe or drain. While this is possible, it is not always the case. If the toilet is nearby, it should be ruled out as the culprit. Also, make sure the pool of water on the floor was not simply splashed there by someone using the sink.

Check for moisture around the surrounding drywall. Nine times out of ten, water is coming from behind the wall. If the wall is wet all the way to the ceiling, water might be coming from a source outside of the bathroom. For example, a roof leak may simply end up near the tub.

Inspect the caulking, grout and seals around the bathtub. If they are deteriorated, water may be seeping through these areas and soaking the drywall when the tub or shower is in use. Allow the bathroom tub or shower to dry out for about 48 hours.  If the drywall remains wet, you probably have a constant slow leak from a pipe.

If the area dries out, you know the leak is caused by bathroom use in some form or fashion. Sometimes people unknowingly splash water from the shower or the tub onto the adjacent floor. They simply do not notice until it becomes a large puddle. Adding small rubber dams around the corners of the tub and making sure the shower curtain liner stays inside the tub rim will limit this problem.

Slippery moisture buildup is common on all bathroom surfaces. On the floor, this creates a slip and fall hazard for children, elderly individuals, and persons with disabilities. Of course, anyone can slip on a pool of water if they aren’t paying attention – such as when they are trying to shower and rush to work in the morning. It makes sense to proactively limit the hazards created by smooth flooring in your bathrooms.

A common solution is a decorative bath mat that lies outside the tub or shower. This absorbent surface captures a lot of the water that follows you out of the bath, but some usually gets tracked out onto the rest of the floor. A better and more permanent solution is to install nonskid products over the entire bathroom floor, not just in one spot. Carpeting is a possibility, but most nice thick carpets act like a sponge to soak up moisture. Then, it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria, mold and fungus.

Add Tiles That Reduce Slipperiness

Special nonskid safety tiles are available that can be added to existing floors. These can be sized to fit any space. The tiles can easily be cleaned, removed and replaced as needed. Antiskid tiles can be laid directly on the original hard flooring making installation costs manageable.

This quick fix is sanitary and safe with minimal maintenance required. These tiles can even be made of materials that will provide a soft landing area should a fall occur despite precautions. A variety of available colors allows you to augment the décor of the rest of the bathroom. If you are ready to sell your house later, the antiskid tiles can be removed to reveal the beauty of the original floor beneath.

Coat Your Existing Floor To Add Texture

Alternatives to non-skid tile include textured coatings that are painted onto the flooring surface. Durability depends a great deal on properly matching these coatings with materials they must adhere to. This type of substance is not easily removed but may be less expensive in the short term. If your existing bathroom floor consists of linoleum, you may not mind coating it with this kind of skid protection material as a stop gap measure until you can afford a permanent flooring upgrade.

Fixed, hanging, and adjustable are the three types of mirrors most commonly used in bathrooms. Most vanities require some sort of mirror. Often these may be part of an inset medicine cabinet. Additional mirrors can be added easily during remodeling. Wall mirrors in particular can make the bathroom space seem much larger than it actually is. Here are several installation methods to explore:

Bracket

Most bathroom mirrors come with L shaped brackets for quick and easy installation. There should be at least 4 included in the package, but larger sized mirrors may require more. Ideally, the supports will help keep the mirror secure and level while remaining inconspicuous themselves. Oversized bathroom mirror brackets are decorative in design and need extra support. Wall studs can often brace them sufficiently so they don’t pull away from the wall or damage the mirror.

Hanging

Framed mirrors can sometimes be hung like pictures or paintings on a wall. This type of mirror is often found in “designer” bathrooms. This approach to hanging mirrors requires extra care. Any wire mounts must be sturdy enough to support the extra weight of the mirror. Otherwise, your expensive mirror may have a short lifespan.

Mounted

Large framed mirrors are usually given extra support which may include a set of sturdy mounts. These mounts can typically support much more weight than L shaped brackets. Extra sturdy mounts are required for adjustable (telescoping) mirrors that can be pulled forward away from the wall. These are typically set in a vertical series with several screws that hold a manufactured hinge in place.

Adhesive Installation

Special adhesive or glue is used to attach a single mirror or a series of mirror-surfaced tiles onto a flat wall. This is a permanent solution that can look seamless when done properly. Mistakes cannot be corrected easily – so always measure and level the pieces first. Removal of the mirror will likely damage the wall, the mirror, or both.

Are you remodeling one or more bathrooms in your home? Installing a new commode may be at the top of your list. With such a basic appliance, it is surprising how many different options you really have. It can actually be confusing to go to the home improvement store and see all these models that appear similar but vary so much in price. Here are some of the options that are available:

Overall Shape

The most easily recognizable difference in commodes is the shape of the bowl. Standard variations are the round and elongated basins. Your best choice for this feature will depend on which design you find most comfortable (people with short legs often prefer a round seat). You may also want to avoid installing an elongated bowl commode in a very small bathroom since it takes up a little more space.

Toilets also come in different throne heights that can affect user comfort. Other variations include the one piece (with the tank and base manufactured as a single unit) and the wall mounted commode that doesn’t have a base. The cost of installation generally goes up with these non-standard models.

Flushing Performance

A typical commode uses the force of gravity to pull water from the tank down into the bowl and toward the drain. Pressure and vacuum assisted toilets offer a little extra boost to ensure flushing is completed efficiently. Older commode models used as much as 7 gallons of water per flush. These days, you can find models that use a little over a gallon and a half. Check the packaging for the EPA approved WaterSense label to identify models that will save you money on your water bill over the long run.

Tub sealer trim is a good alternative to re-caulking for beginners and can be used in most standard bathrooms. It will not mildew or become grossly discolored with the passing of time. It also prevents the buildup of mold and bacteria because of a special anti-microbial compound embedded into the material. When installed properly, it can create a professional looking finish along the edges of the tub.

There are two basic widths – one for the tub/floor lining and one for tub/wall seam. Each strip is a single piece with a factory built score line that ensures a proper 90 degree fold during installation. Tub/floor trim will have one side that is wider than the other. Traditionally, the wider edge goes on the tub and the shorter edge on the floor. However, you can reverse this if you need to cover a gap between the floor tiles and the bottom of the tub.

Step by Step Instructions

Before securing the trim in place, clean up the area where it will be attached. Remove any mildewed caulk, loose grout, or debris. Wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol to make sure it is clean. Let it dry completely for a few minutes before continuing.

Measure and cut the trim to size along each adjacent wall or floor. Take one side of the bathroom trim at a time and pre-fold it along the score. Next, remove a few inches of the adhesive paper from the back. Press the trim into place with your fingers and secure it to the wall and tub edges. Continue to peel the paper backing a few inches ahead of where you are working.

The edges that meet at each corner should overlap. Although you can leave them this way, most installers prefer to cut the folded corners along a 45 degree angle (mitered) so that the two connecting sides will fit snuggly. The idea is to get a tight fit. That way, the trim will provide a lasting seal and grime won’t accumulate in the corners.

With many bathroom remodel projects, replacing the tub is a major decision. This item serves as the focal point for the room. Comfort and style are both important when you are selecting a new bathtub. Here are several options to consider that will make your master bath look trendy and give you a luxurious place to soak at the end of a long day:

Pedestal and clawfoot tubs are available in many stylish shapes. From the classic slipper tub to boat and bowl shaped basins, there is sure to be a model that will fit with your décor (or set the tone for a new motif). Chrome, glass, acrylics, ceramics, wood, and even concrete may be used to create a unique exterior surface texture for these bathtubs. The faucet and controls offer another set of options to play with. For example, you can have them installed as standalone pieces completely outside the tub.

A tub that is sunk into the floor can give your whole bathroom a spa-like feel. If you enjoy being able to step down into the bathtub instead of having to hike your leg over the side, this is an ideal solution. The surround can feature elegant marble, granite, tile, or wood planking.

Special Considerations

One thing to watch for here is size – some oddly shaped tubs won’t be right for your available space. However, if you really have your heart set on a particular bathtub you can always consider enlarging the master bath and blending it with the master bedroom as a single space. Specialty tubs may also require reworking of your plumbing. So, plan ahead for extra expenses in installation.

Bathrooms are one of the most frequently remodeled rooms in most homes. A bathroom makeover offers a quick way to update even the oldest house and make it appear more contemporary. High quality fixtures combined with up-to-date décor ensure a great result. One choice that’s hot in interior design for an ultra modern look is a monochrome color palette. Instead of using contrasting or complimentary colors, consider sticking with just a few closely related shades of the same hue.

A sparkling white bathroom with porcelain tiles and fixtures and gold detailing offers classic beauty. For a slightly warmer feel, mix ivory, cream, or eggshell with light, mottled beige marble or granite. Select pale, dove gray with charcoal trim for a soothing ambiance. Or, you can take a bolder approach with an array of pale blues or greens. Mirrored glass tiles and chrome can act as sleek, sparkly accents to a darker color such as crimson.

If you want a subdued look that isn’t monochrome, pair white and black elements in a guest bathroom. The key to making any of these styles work is paying attention to detail. Everything from your toothbrush holder to the color of the bar soap should stay “on theme”.  Make sure there is plenty of storage space available to hide any items that don’t fit in. This makes the entire room look less cluttered.

A half bath or powder room usually doesn’t offer much in the way of space, but it can be elegant and inviting if you decorate with care. Here are some ideas for making this room special for your guests:

• Install wall sconces with a fairly flat profile to brighten the room without taking up too much room. If the half bathroom has a high ceiling, consider putting in a mini chandelier for an extra touch of class.
• Since a powder room has no tub or shower, this area can be carpeted without much risk of mildew. Choose a product with a soft, lush pile for a luxurious feel. Add a decorative mat made of a water resistant material in front of the sink to catch any drips.
• Replace the traditional sink with an old fashioned wash basin style or pedestal sink. Select unusual materials and shapes to make the sink the focal point of the half bath. Store extra towels and toilet paper in a small, ornate armoire.
• Select a tryptic painting to use as wall art. The three pieces can be hung in a series along a single wall. Or, they can be split up around the room to make the space more visually interesting and lead the eye from one wall to the next.

As with any major remodeling project, a bathroom makeover can go very wrong. This is especially true if you decide to handle the job yourself instead of finding a qualified, reputable contractor. Here are a few mistakes that you can avoid if you do the proper planning:

Overcrowding

Most bathrooms aren’t very spacious – even in larger homes. This means you need to check your layout carefully before making any changes to the interior. Putting in a new sink and then finding that you can no longer open the door all the way is a real problem. When possible, choose minimalist fixtures and space-saving storage options. Measure everything in the bathroom at least twice before you start installing anything new.

Making Repairs Difficult

When it comes to plumbing, there’s no telling when disaster will strike. If you resurface your bathroom walls and floors, make sure you aren’t inadvertently creating a barrier that must be ripped out for a plumber to fix a simple issue such as a leak.

Wrong Sink/Faucet Combo

You want holes in your sink for the faucet/handles. Just make sure the spacing and number of openings in your new sink match up with the faucet you have selected or vice versa. Otherwise, you will be in for an unpleasant surprise when you go to put everything together.

Fumes and Moisture

A bathroom is a tight space to work in and often isn’t well ventilated. This is a problem during remodeling because fumes from paint, epoxy, and other materials can accumulate and make you sick. Also, after the work is done moisture will build up in the room and create a mildew problem. Use a pedestal or box fan to ventilate while work is being done and install a ceiling vent if there isn’t one already in the bathroom.

Carpet remains one of the most popular flooring options for two reasons – price and comfort. However, many homeowners won’t put carpet down in their bathrooms. They fear that moisture will be absorbed by the fibers and soak through the pad. When this happens, mold, mildew, and bacteria can quickly turn a carpeted area into a smelly disaster zone. So, most people settle for linoleum or tile with just a small bath rug to catch water when they step out of the shower. The rest of the floor is cold – and sometimes slippery.

Fortunately, people who want wall-to-wall carpet in their master bath for that warm fuzzy feeling underfoot do have some options. If there is a concrete sub-floor, there is less risk of a leak or spill causing permanent damage to the home. The carpet, backing, and adhesives used should be designed for moisture resistance. This may mean they aren’t as plush as luxury carpets, but they will do a better job of keeping stains and mold at bay. A short pile Olefin is generally considered the material of choice for bathroom carpeting.

Bear in mind that even a carpet designed for use in bathroom applications isn’t intended to act as a sponge. Keep water off the carpet as much as possible and be sure to soak up any spills or leaks as soon as they occur. You may also want to treat the carpet fibers with an additional anti-mildew product for extra protection.

According to the National Kitchen and Bath Association, Traditional designs for bathrooms continue to hold the top spot for 2010. Sleek contemporary and simple Shaker styles are the distant runners up. Colors are bland with beige and bone beating out white as the most popular hues. Ivory and brown will also be featured making earth tones a prevailing theme for this year.

Fixtures are still predominantly white with off-white and bisque as the secondary choices. In keeping with the Traditional concept, undermount sinks will continue leading the pack. Pedestal, vessel, and other sink styles will also have a place in modern bathroom designs.

Faucets will continue to boast a brushed nickel finish that can be cleaned with delicate agents such as a vinegar/water mixture. Shiny chrome and rich bronze are other popular 2010 choices. Tile and stone will provide the foundation for bathroom décor as flooring while granite tops off most new vanities.

The folks at Signature Contractors have compiled a different list of bathroom trends for this year. They point to luxury items like flat screen TVs and filtered shower heads as prime picks. Radiant floor heating, low flow toilets, and other environmentally friendly upgrades are also heading the list of remodeling projects.