Soldering copper pipe fittings isn’t hard, but you will need to practice to make perfect. It’s a good idea to gather some scraps of copper and solder a few joints until you get it right. Copper plumbing is appreciated for it’s professional look. Copper is a durable, clean functional connecting system.

Make sure that you get the L pipe instead of the M pipe. The M pipe has a thinner wall and is for heating systems. It may leak under greater pressure of a water supply system.

Step1: PREPARE THE INSIDE OF THE FITTING

You need to start with rimming the inside of each fitting with a round wire brush and sand the end of the fitting with an emery cloth. When the connections are clean it ensures a good seal.

Step2: CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE.

To do this use an emery cloth or steel wool. Use a deburring tool or the handle of a pair of pliers to deburr the inside of the pipe. If you don’t deburr the pipe a burr can cause a hum once the water starts running through the pipe. You’ll need to be careful because the edges may be sharp.

Step3: APPLY FLUX TO THE PIPE

Apply a layer of flux (lead-free soldering paste) to the end of the pipe using a flux brush. You will need to cover about 1 inch of the pipe with the flux. When you insert the pipe into the fitting make sure it is tight against the bottom of the fitting. Twist the fitting slightly to spread the flux.

Step4: UNWIND THE SOLDER WIRE

You will need at least 8 to 10 inches of the wire extended from the spool. You will need to bend the first 2 inches to a 90-degree angle.

Step5: HEAT THE FITTING

Put the pipe in both sides of the fitting so soot from the torch won’t contaminate the joint. You will need to hold the flame against the center of the fitting for 4-5 seconds or until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

Step6: TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE PIPE

Move the flame to the low end of the fitting. Now remove the flame and touch the solder against the pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is ready to solder.

Step7: APPLY MORE HEAT IF NECESSARY

After the solder melts when you touch it against the pipe, remove the flame and quickly melt ½ to ¾ inch of solder into the joint. Capillary attraction will draw the liquid solder into the joint. If your joint is properly soldered, it will show a thin bead of solder around the fitting.

Step8: CLEAN THE FITTING

Some of the plumbers will reapply flux and briefly heat the pipe to clean it further. You should always wipe away the excess solder with a rag. Be careful when handling the pipe because it will be hot. You can cool the pipe and fitting with a damp rag. Now turn on the water and check for leaks. If the joint leaks, take it apart and re-solder it.

CPVC is used for hot and cold water supply. It is cheaper to but than copper and it is just as durable. It also withstands high temperatures and pressure in the supply system. It’s easy to cut with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and connections are easy and quick to assemble. You can get one-step cements for CPVC and eliminate the purple primer. You need to make sure that one-step cements are allowed and that they meet your codes before you use them. Also, check the local codes carefully to determine whether or not you need to use primer.

Step1: DEBURR THE PIPE

Make sure you remove the burrs to ensure even coverage with the primer and cement. After you have deburred, sand lightly with an emery cloth, that way the pipe will sit in the bottom of the fitting.

Step2: COAT THE SURFACES WITH PRIMER IF REQUIRED

Apply an even coat of primer to the pipe and the fitting. Primer will soften the pipe to help seat it and reacts with the cement to make a permanent bond. Make sure you use a purple primer if you are required under code to primer. That way the inspector will be able to easily see it.

Step3: APPLY THE CEMENT AND ASSEMBLE THE PARTS QUICKLY AND CAREFULLY

You will need a dauber to apply an even coat of cement to the pipe and fitting and insert the pipe all the way into the fitting until it stops. Make sure you twist the pipe a quarter of a turn to spread the cement evenly. Hold the pipe for 30 seconds to prevent the heat made by the cement from pushing apart the connections. Wipe off the excess cement with a clean rag.

Stippling is a subtractive finish. You apply the glaze and then you remove some of it. You do this by pouncing or bouncing the ends of a finely bristled stippling brush through wet glaze. It creates a more finely textured surface than sponging on or off. However, it does require more effort to pounce the brush over every inch of the glazed wall. A stippling brush has long bristles that cover a larger area than the end of a regular brush with each pounce. Stippling brushes are more expensive, but worth every penny to get the right effect. For the edges of the wall you should get the edge stippler. It has a narrow design that makes it easier to pounce along the edges.

You can also use stippling as an additive effect. You can dip a brush into the glaze mix and apply it to the wall lightly by slapping the bristles against the palm of your hand and splattering tiny drops of paint on the base coat.

Step1: PRACTICE AND PRIME

First apply a semigloss base coat. Brush short sections and then roll out as many of the brush strokes as possible. Finish rolling the area and paint more of the edges with the brush. Allow the base coat to dry. Mix the paint and the glaze with four parts glaze and one part paint. Only roll the section of the wall that you will be able to stipple before it begins to dry. Pounce or bounce the stippling brush on the glaze surface to create your effect. Brush on the glaze near the edges. Apply it elsewhere with a 3/8-inch roller or a foam roller. Use less glaze if you are looking for a lighter finish and apply it in random swirls with a paint brush.

Step2: STIPPLE THE GLAZE

Always work from top to bottom. Pounce the brush so that you feel a rebound from bending the bristles. Gently push to finely freckle the layer of glaze. The effect on the wall should be even. Turn your wrist between each application of the brush to avoid creating a pattern. You will need to remove excess glaze from the brush because a loaded brush won’t leave a finely textured surface. Use a rag to absorb excess finish from the bristles and to lighten the overall effect of the wall. Clean the brush after every five or six pounces. Stipple the corners. Move along the wall, rolling and stippling, section by section. In the corners use a small, stiff-bristled brush to stipple around the edges of the wall.

There may not be room for a full size linen cabinet in a half bath, but you definitely shouldn’t miss out on this appealing storage option in your master bathroom. This is the perfect space to store fresh towels, toiletries, and extra paper products.

Open vs. Closed

Open linen storage is simply a recessed area with wood or wire shelving that makes everything easily accessible. This approach is very inexpensive and can be incorporated into bathrooms of any size. This option may work for you if you keep everything super organized. Otherwise, it might simply look cluttered and unfinished.

A closet or cabinet with doors is more elegant and keeps everything out of sight. This gives you a discreet place to store items that you may not want on view. You can also combine open shelves for towels with drawers or closed cabinets for personal hygiene supplies. Make sure the cabinet is positioned so the doors can be opened without obstruction.

Finishing Options

White and ivory are lovely, classic choices for the exterior of a linen cabinet. Use a deep rose, cobalt blue, or lime green for the interior for a surprising burst of color. Don’t use contact paper to line the shelves – it may bubble and peel. Use moisture resistant latex paint instead.

A rich wood exterior is another great look – especially if it ties in with furnishings in your master bedroom. Choose wrought iron or glass drawer pulls and handles for eye catching accents. Make sure any wood veneers are well sealed since bathrooms tend to be humid.

What to Avoid

Some people like to use the bottom half of a floor to ceiling linen closet as a clothes hamper. However, soiled clothing and wet towels can cause unpleasant smells and mildew if they are allowed to sit in an enclosed space for more than a day or so.

That’s one good reason to have a separate, portable laundry hamper in your bathroom (canvas on a wood frame is a nice choice). You can simply transfer the contents to your washer/dryer utility room for sorting at the end of each day.

Bathrooms present a challenge to homeowners in the ongoing battle to keep mold at bay. Using a vent fan to pull moisture out of the room only does so much to reduce humidity.

The materials you use in your bathroom play an important role in keeping this area of your home as dry as possible. Starting with a base of moisture resistant drywall is best. Then, you can choose from any of the following options as a finish.

Waterproof

Ceramic tile, glass, and laminate panels come closest to being fully water repellent. These are good materials to use for areas in your bathroom that will be splashed with water. When it comes to using glass, don’t assume you can only choose mirrored squares. Instead, look into stained glass tiles and other colorful, artistic styles.

You can mix and match any of these options in the same area. For example, use tile blocks to create a tiny mosaic trim around a laminate panel. This is easier than tiling an entire shower stall; you have the edge of the laminate to guide you in keeping the tile border straight.

Water Resistant

Vinyl wallpaper and glossy paint are somewhat resistant. They can be used in moist areas that don’t get hit directly with water. Paint and wallpaper that are suitable for use in a bathroom are usually labeled accordingly.

The paper should be thick vinyl with a canvas or other water resistant backing. Paint should be semi or high gloss. If you find a latex paint you like that isn’t specifically formulated for bathrooms, you can mix in an additive to make it resistant to water. This inhibits the growth of mold and prevents water spotting.

The most common home plumbing problem is a leaky faucet. The leaks happen when the washers, O-rings, or seals inside the faucet get dirty or worn out. It’s not hard to fix a leak, but the techniques vary depending on the type of faucet you have. Determine the faucet design and the  replacement parts before you begin your work.

There are four basic designs: ball-type, cartridge, disc, and compression. Many can be identified easily just by their outer appearance, but there are some that you have to take apart before it can recognized.

Many double-handled faucets use the compression design. From time to time you have to replace the washers or seals in the compression faucets.  These are very easy to make, and the replacement parts are not expensive.

The ball-type, cartridge, and disc faucets are known as washerless faucets.  Many of the washerless faucets have a single handle, but some do have two handles.  These faucets will make less trouble for you than the compression faucets will, and they are designed for quick repair.

Make sure the replacement parts match the original parts before you install them. The replacement parts for the more popular washerless faucets are identified by their brand name and model number. Bring the worn parts with you when you go to the store to get ones. It will help you identify the parts you need.

Nothing is quite as relaxing as a long, hot soak in a whirlpool tub at the end of the day. If you have upgraded your bathroom by adding a jetted bathtub, here are some maintenance tips to keep it in good working condition.

Surface Cleaning

If your tub has an acrylic or fiberglass surface, you must be very careful not to scratch it. Stay away from abrasive scrubbing powders. Also, don’t use Scrubbing Bubbles® or other chemical cleaners that may degrade the plastic surface.

All you really need is dishwashing soap and a soft rag. Diluted Clorox (chlorine) is also safe for acrylic. However, it may cause bleaching on darker surfaces. Ammonia based glass cleaners like Windex are also recommended for maintaining acrylic. Always read bathroom cleaning product labels so you don’t accidentally mix ammonia (or other acids) with chlorine!

Internal Cleaning

With water jets, the internal plumbing is where the real maintenance problems can occur. That’s why manufacturers recommend not adding aromatic oils to your whirlpool tub water. It will coat the pipes and is difficult to remove. Soaps, minerals, and your natural body oils will create deposits in the plumbing regardless.

Keep this buildup to a minimum by dosing the used water with a specially formulated cleaner after you bathe. Run the jets for 10 minutes prior to draining. Have your whirlpool tub professionally cleaned once a year to remove any tough deposits that your regular cleaning regimen can’t touch.

The biggest reason people don’t like to use this type of sink is it doesn’t offer any type of storage area.   First off, they are mounted in two ways. The more expensive ones are hung in the manner of wall-hung sinks. But the pedestal sinks have the structure built into it so it can do most of the bearing on it’s own.  But for those of you that do like the way it looks here is how you would install a pedestal sink:

Step1: Install 2 x 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the area where you want the sink. Make sure you cover the wall with “water-resistant” drywall.

Step2: Make sure you set the basin and pedestal in the position you want and brace it with 2 x 4′s.  Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor.  Also, make sure you mark your reference points on the wall and the floor through the mounting holes that are in the back of the sink and bottom of the pedestal.

Step3: Put the basin and pedestal to the side.  Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor where you marked your reference holes then reposition the pedestal.  Now anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws.

Step4: Attach the faucet, then set the sink on the pedestal. Make sure the holes in the back of the sink line up with the pilot holes you drilled in the wall, then put lag screws and washers into the wall brace with a ratchet wrench. Make sure not to overtighten the screws.

Final Step

Step5: Time to hook up the drain and add fittings. Don’t forget to caulk between the back of the sink and the wall when you are done with all of the installation.

Now that concludes includes our lesson for the day. Make sure to check with us daily for all of your do-it-yourself needs. Happy installing!!!!

Small guest bathrooms are a favorite location for pedestal sinks. The narrow silhouette of this sink style offers additional room to maneuver in cramped spaces. However, this type of fixture has no under-sink cabinets. A wall mounted medicine cabinet isn’t large enough to hold towels and extra toilet paper, so you will need to create storage space. Over commode shelving is the perfect complement for a pedestal sink. It makes use of an area in the bathroom that is usually left blank or fitted with a single towel rack.

Remodeling Considerations

It is possible to install a pedestal sink yourself. However, hiring a professional is by far the easiest approach. The interior of the column doesn’t offer much space to work when you are trying to run the pipes through it.

The sink is not fully supported by the pedestal – it also bolts into the wall for greater stability. If the studs aren’t at the correct distance, install an additional cross piece in the wall for support. This will require cutting into the drywall, so watch out for wires and water lines.

Decide which is more important to you from an aesthetic standpoint: the sink – or the faucets. Do you have your heart set on a particular 3 piece faucet set? If so, you will need to buy a sink that has three holes correctly spaced to accommodate the faucet style you selected.

When you replace your existing wall mounted or cabinet sink with a pedestal sink, you will have to refinish the wall to cover up the outline left by the old unit. This is a good time to put in new wallpaper or apply a different paint color.

Fancy Options

Pedestal sinks may be small, but they can be an elegant accent for any bathroom if you pick the right materials. Instead of plain porcelain, try concrete art pieces or contemporary glass for a touch of class.

Wainscoting. I picture something in a home out of the 1700s, say, Ben Franklin’s era. Would this work in my home?  Wainscoting (often mispronounced Wains-coating) is a facing or paneling, usually of wood, applied to the walls of a room.

The lower part of an interior wall, finished in a material different from that of the upper part. This is topped with a chair rail. It looks smart, and Wainscoting can add style to any room in your home.. Selecting the style, design and materials can be dizzying. There are so many options.

Choices range from simply cutting wall panel to the height specifications with a chair rail along the top, to fancier, pre-cut  hardwoods or the very durable, maintenance-free synthetic materials.

If you plan to DIY, you will need these tools:
combination square, level, tape measure, clamps, utility knife,  chop saw, hammer,  radial arm saw,  circular  or table  saw. Or use a coping saw, hand saw and miter box.

You’ll also want to have dividers, a cordless drill–driver, pneumatic nailer and jig-saw. There’s more: wood glue, construction adhesive, 8d and 4d finish nails, wood shims and wood filler Better to have these tools at the ready, rather than making extra runs to the hardware store during the project.

Sounds like a real chore, doesn’t it? Fear not! Variations on this process: paint the lower portion of the wall, instead of installing wood panels. Sponge painting that portion of the wall, with a chair rail dividing that and the upper wall, is a unique effect.

Otherwise, spend a Saturday afternoon selecting wallpaper, rather than paint. Line the lower wall with your choice of wallpaper. You may want to paint the chair rail to match one of the colors in the wallpaper.

Most people have heard about the Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean. This products claim to clean all hard to clean stains in a quick easy fashion. On the commercials, the stain is removed in one swipe with very little scrubbing and hardly any effort at all. This is not very convincing to a person who cleans a lot of the time, but the company has sold millions. The question is does this little sponge really work for household cleaning jobs?

The answer is, yes. After many different tests on this little magic sponge, the results speak for themselves. Clean just about anywhere in your home with this eraser and you are sure to have a dirt free space to live in, at least for a little while. The magic eraser really did remove ground in dirt and stains on counter tops, bathtubs, sink, and refrigerators. This is where most of the testing was done.

There are only a few problems with this magic eraser and that is it does not last for long, especially if you are doing some scrubbing. It does take quite a bit of elbow grease, but it does effectively remove the blemish. It is not recommend using on flat paint walls. It will remove markings on your walls, but it will also remove the paint along with it.

The magic eraser really does work like it says. All those hard to reach spaces with a dish rag is not a problem for the magic eraser. You may need more than one because it does crumble after using it for a while, but it is great when you really need some deep down cleaning.

A bathroom can be a source of endless repairs for some people. A recent survey should that bathroom repairs rank in the top three home repairs. This can be due to the amount of plumbing in such a small area. There are many things that can go wrong with plumbing that it can either be overwhelmingly difficult or extremely easy to fix. It just depends on what area of the plumbing you are going to need to fix.

The toilet is a common problem area for many home owners. A running toilet is a big problem if you continue to leave it running. It can really be a problem if you have a septic system instead of city sewer. This is because it can cause your septic system to feel up rather quickly. A running toilet can also cause a large or expensive water bill.

Fixing a running toilet can mean just replacing a few pieces on the inside. One way to fix a leaking toilet is to test and see if you lift the bulb in back of the toilet, does this make the water stop running? If so you may be able to bend the bar down to lower the bulb into the water. This often times will help with the running toilet. If this does not work, then you may need to buy some replacement parts.