There are many different Skylight options out there today. You can get Skylights made out of many different materials, sizes and styles and can be operational or fixed. You can even get them with integrated screens to help block out the sun if you wish.

In the beginning, skylight windows were only available in single pane glass. But today, skylights are available in multi-pane Low-E glass and also tinted coatings to reflect the suns rays and radiation block. That will help keep the home cooler.

You can also get ventilated skylights if you choose. You can open them with hand cranks, switch controlled motors, or you can even have them installed with an automatic temperature sense that is self controlled to open up to allow warm air to be vented out of a room. They also are available with insect screens.

All windows come with a selection of ultra-violet ratings and insulation for you to choose from. Normally, the better the skylight the higher U-values and R-values they have and they usually come with a much higher price tag. However, it is your home and it is always a good investment to go with the better product for the future.

Skylights are a really good natural lighting option and accent piece. You can always add this to a new home or make it a great home addition to your existing home. They are easily retrofitted into the home. So I suggest when you are thinking about adding a little light or brightness to your home, look into skylights and see if that’s an option.

If you add bay windows to your house, it can make the house feel brighter and more spacious. It will also add a touch of elegance to the home. Wooden shades in a bay windows are necessary to provide shade from sun rays and they also add a little privacy from the outside.

Measurements

You need to measure the bay windows before you buy any type of wooden shades to make sure that the size is correct. First measure the width of each of the window panes because some bay window panes are different sizes. Now measure the length of one of the window panes, the length of the window panes should be the same for each of them. You will need to add 2 inches to this measurement for the depth of the shades.

Hanging

When you hang them, measure 2 inches above the ceiling corners of one of the window panes and mark with a pencil. Next you will need to take the bracket and line it up with these marks. Now use a drill to lightly screw in the bracket. Keep doing this step with the other bay window panes. When you have finished with all the brackets and they have been lightly attached to the wall, use a screwdriver or drill to fasten them securely into place. When all the brackets are secured, the wooden shades can be attached to the brackets.

Whenever you install base cabinets you’ll find out that they are trickier to install than wall cabinets. This is because the floor is almost never level, so you have more shunning to do. You also work around plumbing lines and that is never easy. Here is how to install them step by step.

Step1: Find the floor’s highest point where the cabinets will be installed. Now measure up 341/2 inches from that spot, and make a mark on the wall. Make sure you use a level to carry that point around the walls where the cabinets will go.

Step2: Mark wall studs for base cabinets that were not marked for upper cabinets.

Step3: You always want to start in a corner. Corner cabinets aren’t able to support a countertop on their own, so first install permanent ledger boards along the mark.

Step4: Align the adjacent cabinet with the corner unit before fastening anything in place. The standard cabinet will help ensure that the corner cabinet is positioned properly. Clamp the vertical stiles of the two cabinets’ face frames together with C-clamps. Now, you will need to drill countersunk pilot holes, then fasten them together with wood screws.

Step5: Use the level to make sure you have a perfect vertical and perfect horizontal. If you do not, use shims to make adjustments. Now fasten them into the wall with the screws driven into the wall studs that you found and marked earlier. Keep doing these steps adding one cabinet at a time by first attaching the stiles, then level it, and then screw it into the wall studs.

Final Step 6: You will need to cut holes for the plumbing lines when you install the sink base. Measure the locations of the pipes from the edge of the neighboring cabinet and up from the floor. Now transfer the measurements to the back and base of the cabinet. Mark where the holes are and cut them out with a spade drill bit for holes less than 1 ½ inches and a saw bit for the larger holes.

Paint is one of the cheapest and quickest fixes that you can do to your home. Your house will look better and if you are trying to sell, you will get back more money than you invested in the paint. There are many different types of paint to choose from. Oil, Latex, Sheen (Gloss), Color or Decorative Paint.

Oil vs. Latex: Latex is what most people use because it is water-based, durable, and easy to clean up. Oil (also known as alkyd) is still available in most parts of the country. It is a little harder to work with and it isn’t easy to clean up or dispose of, but it still have uses.

Sheen (Gloss): The glossier the paint, the easier it is to clean. The more flat or less glossy, the more it hides mistakes. You should use flatter sheens on most of the walls. Use glossier sheens on trim and in kitchens, and baths, all of which get a lot of splatters, fingerprints, and other abuse.

Color: Believe it or not, white is not the only color and white on white is not the only color scheme. Though it may seem “safe”, you can do so much more. Read literature and do some research and check which scheme would work best for you. When you are ready, buy a quart and put it in the section of the wall you want to paint, then paint the trim also and live in it for a few days and see if you still like it. If it’s a disaster, redo it. If you like, finish the house.

Decorative Paint: Sponging, dragging, stippling, texturing add a lot to a room and are easy to master. Before you start on your walls, get a piece of drywall and try different techniques and color schemes.

When your drain is stopped or really slow, it is seldom the result of collapsed or defective pipes. Blockage in the lines is usually caused from many different things. Mostly from solid waste, small objects, hair, or clumps of soap and grease. What you need to do is isolate the problem. If one of the fixtures seems to drain slow or not at all, check and see if the other fixtures have the same problem. If only one fixture is the problem, fill the sink with water. If the water drains for two seconds or less before clogging, the problem is in the trap. If two or more fixtures are clogged, the clog may be in the branch line, the main line, or the vent stack. When you isolate the affected area, it will help you decide how to clean out the line-and whether you need to hire a professional.

Remember, drain lines are very fragile. They are probably more fragile than you would expect because of all the fixtures attached to them. You will need to be careful when using chemicals and augering. Some chemicals can weaken the walls of the drain lines, and augers can shatter porcelain fixtures. If either one of those don’t work, try to snake the line, but work slowly and carefully. There is a risk when you use chemicals. It is best to avoid them if possible. But if you do decide to use one, be sure that you FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS when using it. Never use a drain cleaner on a clogged drain or in a toilet, and never pour acid in standing water.

You should always use two people when wallpapering the ceiling. Make sure you use heavy duty adhesive and give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. If you are using the same paper on the walls, paper the ceiling first and make sure to match the seams from ceiling to walls.

Step1: PRIME AND PATCH THE CEILING

Lay out the paper on the ceiling so that the strips will overlap the wall by about ½ inch. When you lay out the strip, hold a roll of paper against the ceiling at one side of the room. Now, mark on the ceiling ½ inch from the end of the roll. Go the the other side and make a similar mark.

Step2: SNAP A CHALK LINE CONNECTING THE TWO MARKS.

You will want to use blue chalk because red chalk will bleed through the paper. Cut a strip of paper to the exact length and then apply wallpaper paste activator.

Step3: WORKING IN SMALL SECTIONS, POSITION THE STRIP AGAINST THE GUIDELINE

Make sure you overlap the side wall by ½ inch and the end walls by 2 inches. Take a smooth brush and flatten the strip as you work. If you are going to cover the walls with the same paper, trim the ceiling wallpaper so it overlaps the wall by ½ inch. If you are not covering the walls then trim the excess by holding a broad knife against the corner and cutting with a razor knife.

Step4: CUT OUT A SMALL WEDGE OF WALLPAPER IN THE CORNER SO THAT THE STRIP WILL LIE SMOOTH.

Press the wallpaper into the corner with a broad knife.

Preparing the walls is as important as hanging the paper. If the surface is greasy or dirty, the paper won’t stick. Also, if there are irregularities in the wall, they may be visible on the paper’s surface. So be prepared: Wash, patch, fix, prime, seal, and size before you paper. The good thing is primers, sealers, and sizing are combined into a single product. Paint and plaster companies market many wall repair kits.

Step1: PATCH AND PRIME THE WALLS BEFORE YOU START

Primer can be white, clear, or tinted slightly to match the paper. When you have finished priming, look at the paper you selected. The pattern type determines how the strips are cut and glued on the walls. On straight-match and random-match papers, patterns along the left and right edges of the paper are the same, and the installation is straight forward.  On drop-match papers, the elements are staggered along both edges.  Aligning the pattern results in an uneven top edge, which get’s trimmed.  This will take more time and you will waste more paper but results in a  more interesting and fun patern. Cutting alternating strips from two rolls  of wallpaper will cut down on some of the wallpaper waste.

Step2: BEGIN IN THE LEAST-CONSPICUOUS INSIDE CORNER OF THE ROOM

You should position the first strip so that most of the paper is on the first wall to be pampered, with about 1/2 to 2 inches of the strip wrapping around the corner onto the adjoining wall. This helps hide the cracks they may develop in the corners. When you measure the strip, you will need to lay out the strip and measure it from the corner by the width of the paper minus the wrap. Draw a plumb line at this point, guided by a level.

Step3: CUT THE FIRST STRIP OF PAPER

You will need to cut it about 4 inches longer than needed so that it can temporarily overlap the ceiling baseboard. Then roll out the paper on a long work surface and cut the strip to length with scissors.

Step4: APPLY ACTIVATOR OR PASTE

It’s recommended to use a paste activator instead of soaking prepasted paper: It’s a stronger bond and it takes longer to dry so you can continue to move the paper around on the wall. Brush or roll on the activator. Make sure you follow the directions for the activator as well. Also, make sure you get paste ACTIVATOR not paste!

Step5: GENTLY FOLD THE ENDS TOWARD THE MIDDLE,

glued sides together with the patterned side out. The term used for this is “booking the strip”. Try not to crease the paper. Wait at least 1 minute so the paste has a chance to activate before hanging it.

Step6: HANG THE FIRST STRIP ALONG THE PLUMB LINE WITH A GENTLE BUT FIRM HAND

Start by positioning the middle of the strip, and work your way up to the top, sliding the paper to align it. Align the bottom and work it gently against the wall. Now, start from the top and work your way down the wall and smooth the paper onto the wall with a brush or a flexable plastic smoother.

Step7: HANG THE SECOND STRIP AND THEN TRIM THE FIRST

Allow the glue to dry on the first strip while you hang the second one. Then when you are done hanging it, you can go back and trim the first strip.

Step8: BUTT SUBSEQUENT STRIPS AGAINST EACH OTHER

When you have finished hanging a few strips, go over the seams between them with a seam roller to fix the edges in place. Be careful not to force too much paste out from under the strips or your seams will loosen. Use clean warm water and a sponge to remove excess paste from the wall. Do not use a roller on foils, flocked, or embossed papers because it may damage it. Instead, press along the seams with a smoothing brush.

Step9: PAPER OVER ELECTRIC SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

Cut away excess paper. Before you cut around an electrical box, make sure you turn the power off to the room. Make four diagonal slices, starting at the center of the box and working toward corners. Trim and make a rectangular opening, leave enough paper for the cover plate to conceal the edges.

Wouldn’t it be nice if a fresh coat of paint over a good primer would cover over stains, water marks, and mildew? When the paint is still wet it may appear to cover, but as it dries these stains will seep through and you’ll end up with a fresh coat of stained paint.

Before you prime or paint, remove all stains and mildew. It will take some elbow grease, but cleaning it before hand will save you time in the long run because you won’t have to repaint it. The best thing to use to destroy the spores that cause mildew is regular household bleach diluted with water. You will need to fix water stains at the source before you repair the wall or ceiling.

Water leaches chemicals from wood and drywall. When the mixture seeps through a wall or ceiling, it stains. Mildew is a spore in the air. Given food (paper or paint) and moisture, mildew flourishes on walls.

Step1: MIX THREE PARTS WATER TO ONE PART LAUNDRY BLEACH

You will want to mix this two solutions in a bucket. If you are sensitive to bleach, protect your eyes and hands.

Step2: APPLY LIBERALLY WITH A SPONGE

Apply again after 20 minutes even if the mold has disappeared.

Step3: RINSE OFF THE BLEACH AND DEAD MILDEW WITH CLEAN, FRESH WATER

Allow it to dry throughly before cleaning with TSP substitute. Then prime with a stain-blocking primer and paint.

Only compression valves have valve seats. When repairing a compression valve, check to see if the valve seats need to be resurfaced. You will need to stick your finger down into the faucet body to feel if the valve seat is rough. If it is rough it will quickly damage a washer. You should either replace it or resurface the valve seat at the same time you are replacing the faucet washer.

Step1: TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY AND DISASSEMBLE THE FAUCET VALVE

Lower the sink stopper and cover it with a cloth to prevent loose parts from falling into the drain. Pry off the handle cap with a screwdriver. Remove the valve. Now loosen the compression valve with water-pump pliers and remove it. Make sure you keep any and all washers or O-rings with the valve and set them aside.

Step2: BACK OUT THE SEAT

Use a seat wrench to remove the valve seat. Now select an end that fits snugly into the seat. Insert the end of the wrench into the seat and tap the top to seat if firmly. The valve seat may be stuck, so the first turn should be quick and firm to release it without stripping the threads. When you have it loose, turn the wrench until you can remove the screw and take the seat out. You will need to take the old seat with you when you go to buy a new one. That way you will get the right one.

Step3: REPLACE THE SEAT

Install the new seat into the faucet. Apply pipe dope to the seat threads to seal them; insert the end of the seat wrench into the seat and set the seat in place. Now, screw the valve into place and assemble the compression valve, faucet handle, and handle cap. When you turn the water supply on make sure you go slow and check for leaks.

Shutoff valves let you turn on and off the water near your fixtures so you don’t have to shut off the water to the entire house to make repairs. They attach in different ways: by soldering, threading, or compression fittings. Compression fittings are the easiest to install and don’t require pipe dope, or compound. A metal sleeve makes the fitting watertight, as long as you install it right. Make sure you turn the water off before you start working. You will need to open the faucet you are working on and another one somewhere below it in the house so you can drain all the water out of  it.

Step1: DISCONNECT THE SUPPLY PIPE

Before you start, turn off the main water supply to the house. Unscrew the supply pipe at the wall. You will need to cut it with a mini-pipe tubing cutter or a mini-hacksaw if it is solder ti the wall. Make sure you are careful when cutting the tube. If it is out of round, the compression fitting will leak. Leave enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to install the fitting. Deburr the pipe with an emery cloth. Now slide the compression nut over the supply pipe as far back as you can.

Step2: PLACE THE COMPRESSION RING OVER THE END OF THE SUPPLY PIPE

The end should completely cover the end of the supply pipe. Thread the compression valve into the compression nut. The valve should slide snugly over the ring. Hand tighten the nut. If it doesn’t turn easily, add a tiny drop of oil to the threads. Don’t use pipe compound; the fitting doesn’t require it, and it can make the fitting leak.

Step3: TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION VALVE TO THE NUT BUT DON’T OVER TIGHTEN IT

You will need one wrench to hold the back of the valve and keep it square and another to turn the nut. Follow the same procedure you used to install the valve to attach the supply lines. Only turn the water on for a second and let it flow into a bucket to flush the lines before installing the fixtures.

Soldering copper pipe fittings isn’t hard, but you will need to practice to make perfect. It’s a good idea to gather some scraps of copper and solder a few joints until you get it right. Copper plumbing is appreciated for it’s professional look. Copper is a durable, clean functional connecting system.

Make sure that you get the L pipe instead of the M pipe. The M pipe has a thinner wall and is for heating systems. It may leak under greater pressure of a water supply system.

Step1: PREPARE THE INSIDE OF THE FITTING

You need to start with rimming the inside of each fitting with a round wire brush and sand the end of the fitting with an emery cloth. When the connections are clean it ensures a good seal.

Step2: CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE.

To do this use an emery cloth or steel wool. Use a deburring tool or the handle of a pair of pliers to deburr the inside of the pipe. If you don’t deburr the pipe a burr can cause a hum once the water starts running through the pipe. You’ll need to be careful because the edges may be sharp.

Step3: APPLY FLUX TO THE PIPE

Apply a layer of flux (lead-free soldering paste) to the end of the pipe using a flux brush. You will need to cover about 1 inch of the pipe with the flux. When you insert the pipe into the fitting make sure it is tight against the bottom of the fitting. Twist the fitting slightly to spread the flux.

Step4: UNWIND THE SOLDER WIRE

You will need at least 8 to 10 inches of the wire extended from the spool. You will need to bend the first 2 inches to a 90-degree angle.

Step5: HEAT THE FITTING

Put the pipe in both sides of the fitting so soot from the torch won’t contaminate the joint. You will need to hold the flame against the center of the fitting for 4-5 seconds or until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

Step6: TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE PIPE

Move the flame to the low end of the fitting. Now remove the flame and touch the solder against the pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is ready to solder.

Step7: APPLY MORE HEAT IF NECESSARY

After the solder melts when you touch it against the pipe, remove the flame and quickly melt ½ to ¾ inch of solder into the joint. Capillary attraction will draw the liquid solder into the joint. If your joint is properly soldered, it will show a thin bead of solder around the fitting.

Step8: CLEAN THE FITTING

Some of the plumbers will reapply flux and briefly heat the pipe to clean it further. You should always wipe away the excess solder with a rag. Be careful when handling the pipe because it will be hot. You can cool the pipe and fitting with a damp rag. Now turn on the water and check for leaks. If the joint leaks, take it apart and re-solder it.

Composite shingles are the usual choice for new and replacement roofs on most U.S. homes. These shingles are cheap to make and easy to install. However, they don’t last as long as other materials such as metal or slate. This shorter life cycle means the production and disposal of each roof places a strain on the environment. However, there is a way to reduce this impact – by ensuring that the composite shingles contain a high percentage of recycled material.

Products Used in Recycled Shingles

A number of plastic and rubber items can be incorporated into shingles. These include post-consumer waste like milk jugs and tires. The leftover scraps from the manufacture of baby diapers are another popular source of plastic for roofing materials.

One Canadian waste management company is currently developing plans to offer collection services that pick up used baby diapers for recycling as a roofing component. Of course, these “nappies” have to be sterilized (probably using a waste autoclaving process) to break them down into usable, germ free material. Knowaste already has the technology to make this possible. It’s just a matter of getting the public involved in this new recycling effort.

Quality and Variety Included

These composite shingles don’t look second hand. They can actually be formed to mimic slate and other high-end roofing options and are available in many colors. You can also buy shingles made with recycled fiberglass. These are advertised as being particularly energy efficient. So, the next time you go roof shopping, keep an eye out for recycled products. The more you know the more you can do to buy “green”.