CPVC is used for hot and cold water supply. It is cheaper to but than copper and it is just as durable. It also withstands high temperatures and pressure in the supply system. It’s easy to cut with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and connections are easy and quick to assemble. You can get one-step cements for CPVC and eliminate the purple primer. You need to make sure that one-step cements are allowed and that they meet your codes before you use them. Also, check the local codes carefully to determine whether or not you need to use primer.

Step1: DEBURR THE PIPE

Make sure you remove the burrs to ensure even coverage with the primer and cement. After you have deburred, sand lightly with an emery cloth, that way the pipe will sit in the bottom of the fitting.

Step2: COAT THE SURFACES WITH PRIMER IF REQUIRED

Apply an even coat of primer to the pipe and the fitting. Primer will soften the pipe to help seat it and reacts with the cement to make a permanent bond. Make sure you use a purple primer if you are required under code to primer. That way the inspector will be able to easily see it.

Step3: APPLY THE CEMENT AND ASSEMBLE THE PARTS QUICKLY AND CAREFULLY

You will need a dauber to apply an even coat of cement to the pipe and fitting and insert the pipe all the way into the fitting until it stops. Make sure you twist the pipe a quarter of a turn to spread the cement evenly. Hold the pipe for 30 seconds to prevent the heat made by the cement from pushing apart the connections. Wipe off the excess cement with a clean rag.

A pot rack is one of those upscale kitchens accoutrements that are frequently featured in the movies and in interior design magazines. The shiny set of a dozen or more burnished copper pots and pans are always perfectly flawless. That’s your first clue what you are seeing is a fantasy rather than a reality.

Take out your own pots and look at them. Do they have any scorch marks, stains, or mineral build up? That’s the authentic look of well worn cookware. You might not want to display them prominently in your kitchen. For the Southern Living kitchen look, you would need to buy a matched set specifically for show.

Your other option is to embrace the homey, eclectic look by mixing cast iron, stainless steel, and copper pieces. This is the way to go if you are more interested in the functionality of the pot rack than in the aesthetics. Either way, the placement of your pot rack will play an important role in how happy you are with this kitchen accessory.

Avoid Common Pitfalls

The #1 mistake homeowners make is installing the pot rack where it gets in the way of other activities. Hanging it over a center island may seem like a brilliant idea – until you actually add the pots and pans. Then, if you didn’t allow sufficient height you will end up banging your head on this suspended cookware. In contrast, a rack that is hung too high will make it difficult for you to reach items when you need them.

Putting a pot rack near the stove will mean you have to constantly wipe splatters off the saucepans. Instead, choose a low traffic area. Consider a wall rack rather than a suspended circular “chandelier” style rack if you have a smaller kitchen. This will minimize pans banging against each other and becoming dented if they are jostled.

Stippling is a subtractive finish. You apply the glaze and then you remove some of it. You do this by pouncing or bouncing the ends of a finely bristled stippling brush through wet glaze. It creates a more finely textured surface than sponging on or off. However, it does require more effort to pounce the brush over every inch of the glazed wall. A stippling brush has long bristles that cover a larger area than the end of a regular brush with each pounce. Stippling brushes are more expensive, but worth every penny to get the right effect. For the edges of the wall you should get the edge stippler. It has a narrow design that makes it easier to pounce along the edges.

You can also use stippling as an additive effect. You can dip a brush into the glaze mix and apply it to the wall lightly by slapping the bristles against the palm of your hand and splattering tiny drops of paint on the base coat.

Step1: PRACTICE AND PRIME

First apply a semigloss base coat. Brush short sections and then roll out as many of the brush strokes as possible. Finish rolling the area and paint more of the edges with the brush. Allow the base coat to dry. Mix the paint and the glaze with four parts glaze and one part paint. Only roll the section of the wall that you will be able to stipple before it begins to dry. Pounce or bounce the stippling brush on the glaze surface to create your effect. Brush on the glaze near the edges. Apply it elsewhere with a 3/8-inch roller or a foam roller. Use less glaze if you are looking for a lighter finish and apply it in random swirls with a paint brush.

Step2: STIPPLE THE GLAZE

Always work from top to bottom. Pounce the brush so that you feel a rebound from bending the bristles. Gently push to finely freckle the layer of glaze. The effect on the wall should be even. Turn your wrist between each application of the brush to avoid creating a pattern. You will need to remove excess glaze from the brush because a loaded brush won’t leave a finely textured surface. Use a rag to absorb excess finish from the bristles and to lighten the overall effect of the wall. Clean the brush after every five or six pounces. Stipple the corners. Move along the wall, rolling and stippling, section by section. In the corners use a small, stiff-bristled brush to stipple around the edges of the wall.

Windows take a good beating all the time. The finish degrades. The effects
of the sunlight and moisture make it necessary to sand and strip the window. Most windows installed before the 1950′s were done with clear finishes and they were shellacked. Then came lacquers and now polyurethane is the standard for homeowners. If you won’t be stripping the old finish,sand carefully to ensure that the new coats adhere well.  What about stripping a painted window and finishing it clear? You face the challenge of coaxing paint from the crevices of the trim, the window frame, and all the molding. It can be done, but it’s not easy. Take a good look and assess how much work you have ahead of you. You may want to send the woodwork out to a dip-and-strip shop.

Step1: SAND OR STRIP THE EXISTING FINISH

If your window is in good condition, you can sand it to smooth the finish and dull the sheen. Make sure you cover your work area with a cheap drop cloth. Start with 120-grit sandpaper; after most of the work is done,  finish sanding it with 180-grit sandpaper for a smoother surface. If the sash doesn’t just pop out, you may have to carefully pry off trim pieces. Brush paint and varnish remover onto the window sashes. Make sure there is good ventilation and wear rubber gloves and a vapor respirator. Scrape off the finish with a putty knife. Rinse with the right solvent that is  recommended for the remover.

Step2: FILL HOLES

You can use wood putty to fill the flaws. You will want to spot-sand those areas when you are done. If you are using an oil-based finish, go over the window with a tack cloth or damp paper towel if you are using a water-based finish. There is not a putty that will match the wood exactly.  You can stain the wood and use a stainable putty that will absorb the  stain and come close to a match. But keep in mind, it won’t be a perfect  match. Try different brands to see which works the best for you.

Step3: MASK PANES

Use masking tape so you don’t get the finish on the glass. The low-tack  tapes are easy to remove and they leave less residue. They will also work  when you mask off the trim too. The white and blue rolls stick better than  the brown so I suggest you use those. There are a lot of low-tack tapes  out there, so read the labels and find out which one will work best for  you. Mask the two side edges of the sash; they are usually left unfinished so the finish won’t stick when you open the window.

Step4: APPLY THE STAIN AND FINISH

If the window is stripped and you want to darken it or just stain it, do it now. The stain will only work evenly if you have throughly removed the old finish. If the window is made with a soft wood, you will have an additional problem staining it. Soft wood will absorb the stain unevenly and it will look blotchy. Apply a gel stain if the wood is soft, it won’t blotch because the gel doesn’t soak deep enough into the wood.  Apply at least two coats for best results. Sills take the worst of the weather so I would apply three coats there.

Step5: REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE

As soon as the finish begins to dry, remove the the tape from the glass to prevent adhesive residue. If you have residue on the windows, draw a sharp utility knife along the edges of each pane.

Screening is usually made from either fiberglass or aluminum. Aluminum is stronger than fiberglass, but it is subject to corrosion and harder to install. Make sure to use the same material and color as your other screens unless you are replacing all of your screens.  You can buy the screening in different lengths, either by the foot or in rolls. Purchase enough screening to cover the entire screen frame at with at least a 2-inch overhang on all sides.

The screen is held in place by a spline pressed into a groove in metal frames. Most of the splines are made from vinyl or rubber. As long as vinyl or rubber is still in good condition, you can reuse it. If the spline is dry or cracked, you will need to replace it. When replacing the spline, make sure you bring it with you to buy the new one. That way you can ensure a good fit.

If you have a wood frame, the screen is stapled directly to the frame it’s self. Use molding to cover the staples and the edges of the screen so it will have a neat appearance.

This is a task that is easily handled.  You only need a few supplies and a little bit of time.  If you have any small holes in your walls that have been bothering you-here’s how you handle them:

Get yourself over to the home improvement store in your neighborhood, pick up a 1″ knife, and a 3′ putty knife.  You will also need some lightweight spackle.  If you have textured walls you may want to get some spray texture as well.This is what I used the last time I did this project.  You will need a sanding block, I prefer to use “fine” grade. You may also want to get a mouth and nose covering of some sort to avoid the dust you’ll create when sanding.

When you get home be sure to move any valueables out of the way, you won’t want to get them covered in the dust from the spackle nor would you want to drop any spackle on them. 

Begin by sanding down the area around the hole to make it as close to smooth as possible as well as removing any chipped or peeling paint.

Put a generous amount of the spackle on the big putty knife, using the small knife to get it out of the bucket.  I like to drip just a tad of water onto the pile of putty, mix it in with the small knife.  Once you have a nice soft paste apply that to the area around the hole and get some in the hole as well, the types of holes I am talking about are no bigger than a quarter, for example, maybe the door knob slammed into the wall in the bathroom and created an indent and a partial hole, well this is a place that you would be able to use this technique.

Once you have coated the area make sure and smooth it out using the large putty knife.  Once smoothed, allow to dry, I like to wait overnite but usually you can start sanding in as little as a couple of hours, just follow the guidelines on the spackle that you purchased. 

Once dry, sand the spackled area down as smooth as possible then re-apply another coat of the spackle, allow this coat to dry.

Apply the spray texture as appropriate, most residential walls that use texture use a “knock down” method of application.  What this means is that once you have sprayed the texture on the wall you will use your large putty knife to “knock down” the texture by lightly running the knife’s flat edge over the texture.  I suggest you practice this outside on a piece of old cardboard to get the right texture pattern down that will match your walls.

Now, once you have double coated and textured the wall, you are ready to paint it, get the paint matched to your current color and cover the entire area, I would suggest two coats of paint as well, now voila! You’re finished!

Most people have experienced trouble when opening up their windows due to swollen wood or painted channels.  Or, their windows won’t stay open due to a broken sash cord or chain. Regular maintenance is very important to avoid these problems.  Here is how to adjust your windows:

1. For Spring Loaded Windows

Make sure you have an adjustment screw on the track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and open and closes smoothly.

2. Spring Lift Windows

These replacement windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded lift rod that’s inside a metal tube.  To adjust these type of windows unscrew the top end of the tube from the jamb. then twist the tube to change the spring tension: if you turn it clockwise you will get more lifting power; and counterclockwise for less.  Keep a good strong grip on the tube so you don’t unwind it.

Hope this helps with you fussy windows…

Galley kitchens are a common feature in many smaller homes. This type of layout is designed to put everything within easy reach and take up as little square footage as possible. However, a narrow kitchen is the bane of existence for couples who love to cook together. Even with the recommended 48” walkway for a two person work area, you will find yourself bumping into one another. If you are holding a knife or a pot of boiling water when this happens, it can spell the end of a happy relationship.

Is there is an adjoining wall separating your kitchen from a living area? Take it down – assuming it isn’t a load bearing wall. Relocate the appliances to one side of the new, larger area to form an L shaped layout. Or, if your dining room is larger than your kitchen, simply swap rooms. Both of these remodeling options will require rewiring and plumbing updates, but you can incorporate your existing appliances into the new layout.

Upgrading Offers Decent ROI

Sometimes, homeowners use a kitchen remodel (including new, energy efficient appliances) as a way to increase the resale value of their home. According to the 2008-2009 Cost versus Value report, most of the cost of this type of major remodeling job can be recaptured during a sale. Of course, this varies depending on the condition of the real estate market in your area. Whatever your reasons for upgrading your kitchen, you can’t go wrong with more space and better appliances.

In the world of prefabricated sunrooms, the most basic options are simple glass boxes that enclose a patio or deck. These structures accomplish the job of allowing sunlight in. However, they don’t offer a great deal of aesthetic appeal. This is one reason many homeowners choose to spring for a slightly more customized design like those created by TEMO and Four Seasons.

The conservatory is a good example of a home addition that offers grace and elegance as well as light filled space. Unlike a traditional sunroom with a flat or low vaulted ceiling, a conservatory sunroom rises to a dome or a steep apex. The ceiling is often paneled with clear or frosted glass rather than being opaque.

Room Structure

The room itself may be hexagonal or octagonal offering a panoramic view. This shape blends well with Victorian architecture. Rectangular conservatories are also available that more closely match Georgian style homes. Laminated aluminum generally forms the exterior, but the interior can be finished in wood or other materials to match the rest of your home. White is one of the most popular exterior colors for this type of sunroom – it matches the trim on many houses.

Possible Uses

Historically, conservatories have been used as attached greenhouses for upscale homes and public buildings. This is still a great way to use your own, modern sunroom. The climate is somewhat controlled while letting in plenty of natural sunlight. You can also furnish this area as a parlor, music room, or library.

Wainscoting. I picture something in a home out of the 1700s, say, Ben Franklin’s era. Would this work in my home?  Wainscoting (often mispronounced Wains-coating) is a facing or paneling, usually of wood, applied to the walls of a room.

The lower part of an interior wall, finished in a material different from that of the upper part. This is topped with a chair rail. It looks smart, and Wainscoting can add style to any room in your home.. Selecting the style, design and materials can be dizzying. There are so many options.

Choices range from simply cutting wall panel to the height specifications with a chair rail along the top, to fancier, pre-cut  hardwoods or the very durable, maintenance-free synthetic materials.

If you plan to DIY, you will need these tools:
combination square, level, tape measure, clamps, utility knife,  chop saw, hammer,  radial arm saw,  circular  or table  saw. Or use a coping saw, hand saw and miter box.

You’ll also want to have dividers, a cordless drill–driver, pneumatic nailer and jig-saw. There’s more: wood glue, construction adhesive, 8d and 4d finish nails, wood shims and wood filler Better to have these tools at the ready, rather than making extra runs to the hardware store during the project.

Sounds like a real chore, doesn’t it? Fear not! Variations on this process: paint the lower portion of the wall, instead of installing wood panels. Sponge painting that portion of the wall, with a chair rail dividing that and the upper wall, is a unique effect.

Otherwise, spend a Saturday afternoon selecting wallpaper, rather than paint. Line the lower wall with your choice of wallpaper. You may want to paint the chair rail to match one of the colors in the wallpaper.

Fall is the time of year where all your beautiful green leaves turns brown and scatter on your lawn. This can be a very frustrating thing when you are trying to stay on top of keeping your lawn looking nice and clean. Leaves can create a huge problem in this area. The question is what is the most effective way to keep your yard looking nice? There are so many different methods to removing leaves, but which one is the best for you.

If you are someone that does not want to spend hours doing yard work, then one of the best option for you is going to be an attachment for your lawn mower that will collect the leaves quickly and efficiently. These attachments are great because you just ride you lawn mower like you are mowing and the leaves are instantly picked up and placed in either a regular trash bag or a cloth bag. This makes it easier to get rid of them. You don’t have to rack them into a pile and then place them in a bag to throw them away. You are instantly save a step.

A leaf blower is great for people who have a small amount of leaves. If you live in an area where you do not get a lot of leaves in your yard, then purchasing an inexpensive leaf blower may be the best option for you. This will save you time in collecting the leaves and removing them from your yard.

There is also the standard traditional rake. If you are person that enjoys working in your yard, then this may be your best option. It is extremely inexpensive and for some can be a very relaxing project. A rake is also great for very small yard where lawn mower attachments or leaf blowers would not be very economical to use.

Starting a home repair project can be a bit nerve racking if you are unsure about how to complete the project. There are so many things that can go wrong in repairs that can cause problems later on in your home. For example, if you are trying to repair a whole in your wall, but you don’t really have the tools that you need, then you can actually make the whole spot worse possible causing a bigger and more noticeable hole. A great home repair book can really help in situations like this one.

The Black and Decker Home Repair book has received very high reviews. This home repair book is full of great information that will help anyone attempting to repair over 350 different projects. Each project comes with pictures of how the finished project should look as well as shots of how it should look during the process. This is really very helpful because it can help you prevent any confusion during the repair process.

This book also comes with a detailed tools list. It shows what a standard tool set should have. There is also a complete tool list at the beginning of every project. This will help ensure that you have every tool that you need before you begin the repairs. It will also save you from starting a project that you did not have the proper equipment to begin. This is a very frustrating time consuming mistake that you can make in home repairs.