Do you want the look of wood veneer kitchen cabinets without the expense? Refacing the cabinets and replacing the doors and hardware is much easier and more cost effective than remodeling. You don’t even have to strip the paint off your existing cabinets. You can cover the paint with wood veneer or laminate panels.

First, remove and discard the old doors. Then, sand the boxes just enough to make the painted surface rough instead of slick. Fill in the holes where you removed the hardware with wood putty (scraping it even with the rest of the cabinet) and let it dry. Measure and write down where the holes were. That way, you can avoid installing the new screws in the same spot – they won’t hold well in putty.

Cut your selected veneer panels or self adhesive laminate sheets to the correct size and shape for your cabinet fronts. The end panels usually come in standard sizes, but you can also alter these if required. Glue or press the refacing materials in place over the sanded paint. Trim off any excess with a sharp utility knife. Sand down the edges just a little to make them smooth to the touch.

Stain the surface of your new cabinet doors to match the veneer. If you can’t get an exact match, consider going for contrast with a full shade darker or lighter. Take your time selecting the perfect hardware – all the money you saved on this project can be put to good use here. You will be able to afford ornamental handles and hinges in brass or other top quality materials.

Install the hinges no more than 1/2” from where the original hinges were – taking care not to drill into the old holes. Locate the handles at the bottom 1/3 of the door for upper cabinets and at the top 1/3 for lower cabinets.

Additional Tip:

Are you refacing the interior of your cabinet boxes too? Consider installing glass front cabinet doors to show off the wood grain on the interior. This will make your kitchen appear more open.

When you install granite countertops in your kitchen, you have lots of options for detailing. Since this material is generally thicker than standard laminate tops, the edge profile can be quite ornate. At the very least, the sharp corners will be slightly beveled or rounded down creating an eased radius. A steeper bevel is often used to add angular appeal to classic countertops.

For a smoother curved effect that looks good in any kitchen, you can choose from a variety of bullnose edges. The top edge can be curved and the bottom edge left straight for a half bullnose. Or, the top and bottom can be equally curved to create a half circle radius. This style is easy to keep clean since there are no creases where food crumbs or drips can collect.

Ogee Edge

Stair-stepped styles often couple a bevel with a half bullnose or an ogee (a shallow S curve) to create a fancier edge. These generally work best on a fairly thick slab of granite. That’s partly so the detailing won’t be too small; but making sure the edge is sturdy and won’t chip off under pressure is also important.

In the past, adding an elaborate edge profile could substantially affect the price of granite countertops. Today’s stone working technology makes it possible to get this extra detailing for a much more reasonable price. Make sure that your dealer has the right equipment to create the edge you want. Otherwise, you may have to hire a second contractor to handle that step.

If you are doing a kitchen remodel, this is a great time to do some basic pest proofing. Keeping this area free of food crumbs is just the start. Bugs and rodents have other reasons for visiting your kitchen – warmth, shelter, and moisture. Here are some tips for keeping pest problems to a minimum:

Remodeled Kitchen

Check the exterior of your home outside the kitchen. Seal any cracks or openings that may allow critters to infiltrate. Pay special attention to entry points for pipes. Use weather stripping or caulk to fix any gaps around windows or doors in your kitchen.

If your kitchen adjoins your garage, this is particularly important. Garages are usually not well sealed and pests can easily enter from outdoors. If you keep pet food or organic material like mulch in your garage, it is very likely that there are bugs present.

Check all the plumbing in your kitchen including the sink, dishwasher, and the water line to your refrigerator. Fix any leaks or drips to discourage pests. Replace any water-damaged or mold infested particle board.

When you repaint your kitchen or resurface the floor, take advantage of this opportunity to move all your appliances away from the walls. Check behind them for egg casings and rodent droppings that may indicate an infestation.

Are you installing new appliances? Choose built in models that don’t leave gaps between the countertop and the unit. That way you don’t have to worry about food crumbs or spills between the counter and the fridge or stove.

The concept of universal design is used to create kitchens that offer the greatest degree of accessibility to the largest number of people (with or without disabilities). It’s a smart method to use during remodeling since it can increase the resale value of your home. A universal kitchen design may also permit you to “age in place” rather than moving to a retirement home. With cabinets in particular, having everything within easy reach minimizes the risk of injury.

Ideal Placement and Accessories

If you are having new cabinets installed, the lower ones should be set 6” off the ground. Put roll-out shelves in these cabinets so you don’t have to bend, twist and reach for cookware. Lazy-Susan rotating trays are an excellent accessibility option for corner cabinets.

Bonus tip: Replace round knobs with easy-to-grasp pull handles to make opening cabinet doors easier.

Pull Down Shelves

Upper cabinets should be no more than 10” deep and no higher than 48” above the floor. If yours are higher and you are just repainting but not replacing them, consider adding pull-down shelves. These metal shelves are hidden in the interior of the cabinet. They pull out and then down, locking into place so you can find what you need. A gas assisted device carries the shelf back inside the cabinet when you are finished.

Have you ever wanted to watch your favorite cooking show in your kitchen instead of on the sofa? You could try out the techniques those super-chefs demonstrate with all the utensils, ingredients and appliances you need in arm’s reach. Or, maybe you like to hang out at the breakfast bar with your friends instead of watching sports in the living room with the guys. Install a TV in the kitchen and you can choose whatever entertainment you want.

TV Lifts Save Space in your Kitchen

With counter top space at a premium, you will want your TV monitor tucked out of sight when not in use. This will also protect it from the occasional cooking accident that ends up with oil spatters or mashed potatoes on the walls. You have several choices for hiding your flat panel plasma TV.

Drop Down TV Lift

A rising TV lift can be incorporated into your center island. This is the best location if you want to install a large screen. The surface of your island will still be flush so it can be used as a workspace. The hinged section of marble, granite, wood, or laminate concealing your TV will simply open up with the press of a button from your remote control. A scissor or telescoping lift brings the monitor into view.

Drop down “lifts” operate in the opposite direction. You can mount this kind in the ceiling or have it drop down to counter level from inside a kitchen cabinet. These are a great solution for smaller screens. Here are some extra tips for making the right choice:

• Always choose a lift that is designed for the size and weight of your plasma screen
• Measure the inside dimensions of your island or cabinet twice before purchasing your TV and lift
• Avoid buying a lift that has plastic parts – these will break easily
• Have your lift professionally installed to preserve your warranty

Getting your pantry organized and making small improvements lets you stock more of the items you need without using up valuable cabinet space in your kitchen. Using air tight, stackable containers for storage is a good start. To really maximize your available space, you need to create unique shelving solutions.

Screw small wire organizer shelves (the kind with a lip to keep things from falling off) onto the inside of the pantry door. Or, install a hook. Here, you can hang your fly swatter or a plastic grocery bag holder. Since the door will swing opened and closed, don’t use this space to store anything breakable. Also be careful not to add too much weight.

Pantry with Unused Space

Use a lazy Susan for areas that are difficult to reach. This round, turning storage mechanism can give you easy access to items that you keep on high shelves. Instead of having to climb up a stepstool to see which jars or boxes are tucked in the shelf corners, you can simply turn the lazy Susan to present one item after another until you find what you need.

Install custom sliding or pull out shelving in other strategic places in your pantry. Often there is wasted space between items that are stored on one shelf and those on the next shelf above. This approach will help eliminate these unused areas.

One of the biggest dead spaces in a pantry is the center. This space needs to be open so you can walk in and out easily. However, you can hang baskets, dried herbs, and ropes of onions from the ceiling taking care to place them where you won’t bump your head.

Choosing a kitchen sink faucet that suits your needs can make food prep an enjoyable task and dishwashing less of a chore. Function and style are blended in modern faucet designs, so you don’t have to sacrifice one for the other. If you are replacing the basin at the same time, be sure to select one with the correct number and placement of openings to accommodate the faucet of your choice.

Basics

Single Lever Faucet

A long necked faucet that arcs high over the sink is probably the most popular style for today’s kitchens. It is easy to maneuver even large pots under this type of fixture – especially if you have a double basin sink. This type of faucet can be installed with ornate hot and cold temperature knobs to the right and left of the central fixture.

If you like one-handed temperature and flow control, pick a faucet with a single adjustment lever incorporated into its base. For an old fashioned look with a modern finish, consider a pump handle style in oil rubbed bronze. Matte black and ivory are other alternatives to stainless steel and chrome on some high-end brands.

Accessories

A sprayer is a must-have for cleaning your sink and prepping soiled dishes for your dishwasher. You can install a separate retractable sprayer. Or, choose a faucet that features a pulldown sprayer head for a more streamlined look.  A soap dispenser can be hidden under the sink with a push nozzle located by the faucet for easy dispensing. Choose a standard sized faucet if you plan to install a water filter or want to hook up a carpet shampooer.

A wet bar is a very useful addition to your home if you entertain regularly. The best spot for your wet bar depends on where you have an available water supply. That’s why kitchens are an optimal location – you can simply extend an existing line to bring water to the bar sink. This makes installation simple and relatively inexpensive.

You can make your wet bar a free-standing island or build it onto the end of a counter. Installing it as an extension to your breakfast counter is another option. Just be sure to leave enough room for a walkway at the end. Otherwise the flow of traffic into and out of your kitchen may be impeded – something you definitely don’t want during a party.

To maintain consistency, it is best to apply the décor theme from the rest of your kitchen to your wet bar. You may also add a few more exotic touches. Try an ornate chrome faucet, drawers with vintage glass pull knobs, or a marble counter top to give the area a sophisticated look.

Wet Bar Essentials

Besides a sink, there are a few things you should definitely include in a fully functional wet bar. An icemaker, a refrigeration unit, and storage space for glasses are must have items. Depending on your beverage preferences, you may also want a wine rack or a full-fledged liquor cabinet. 

Don’t feel like you have to add an ice bucket, espresso machine, and other accessories unless you have enough room. You don’t want your wet bar to be cluttered.

Contact paper is a useful item for redecorating kitchens. It can be used in cabinets and on pantry shelving to provide semi-permanent protection from scratches and stains. High quality contact paper can be easily wiped down and sanitized. It can be installed in old or new cabinets on top of the bare particle board or over a coat of paint.

You can choose contact paper in a wide variety of patterns and colors. If your cabinet exteriors are painted white, a bright gingham or flowered contact paper provides a surprising contrast. There also specialized types of film lining that are skid resistant or have bug repellant properties.

Removing/Replacing Old Contact Paper

Is there already contact paper in place that you don’t really like? You aren’t stuck with it. A few removal tricks can make redecoration quick and painless. Use a hair dryer to warm the surface of the old contact paper and restore some flexibility in the plastic film.

The heat will also melt the underlying adhesive just enough so that a corner will easily peel back. From that corner, you can work the hair dryer gradually over the entire surface. Pull the contact paper off at the same time with your other hand. Work slowly so that the old paper is less likely to split into fragments as you peel it off. Once the paper is removed, residual adhesive needs to be wiped away. Use ‘Goo Gone’ or another citrus type cleaner.

Let the surface dry completely before attempting to put in the new contact paper. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation. Use a soft cloth to smooth the surface of the paper with gentle pressure from the palm of your hand.

Once all the bubbles are gone from underneath the paper, carefully trim away any excess with a pair of sharp scissors. A nice even edge on the contact paper will make your kitchen cabinets look professionally redone.

Whenever you install base cabinets you’ll find out that they are trickier to install than wall cabinets. This is because the floor is almost never level, so you have more shunning to do. You also work around plumbing lines and that is never easy. Here is how to install them step by step.

Step1: Find the floor’s highest point where the cabinets will be installed. Now measure up 341/2 inches from that spot, and make a mark on the wall. Make sure you use a level to carry that point around the walls where the cabinets will go.

Step2: Mark wall studs for base cabinets that were not marked for upper cabinets.

Step3: You always want to start in a corner. Corner cabinets aren’t able to support a countertop on their own, so first install permanent ledger boards along the mark.

Step4: Align the adjacent cabinet with the corner unit before fastening anything in place. The standard cabinet will help ensure that the corner cabinet is positioned properly. Clamp the vertical stiles of the two cabinets’ face frames together with C-clamps. Now, you will need to drill countersunk pilot holes, then fasten them together with wood screws.

Step5: Use the level to make sure you have a perfect vertical and perfect horizontal. If you do not, use shims to make adjustments. Now fasten them into the wall with the screws driven into the wall studs that you found and marked earlier. Keep doing these steps adding one cabinet at a time by first attaching the stiles, then level it, and then screw it into the wall studs.

Final Step 6: You will need to cut holes for the plumbing lines when you install the sink base. Measure the locations of the pipes from the edge of the neighboring cabinet and up from the floor. Now transfer the measurements to the back and base of the cabinet. Mark where the holes are and cut them out with a spade drill bit for holes less than 1 ½ inches and a saw bit for the larger holes.

When your drain is stopped or really slow, it is seldom the result of collapsed or defective pipes. Blockage in the lines is usually caused from many different things. Mostly from solid waste, small objects, hair, or clumps of soap and grease. What you need to do is isolate the problem. If one of the fixtures seems to drain slow or not at all, check and see if the other fixtures have the same problem. If only one fixture is the problem, fill the sink with water. If the water drains for two seconds or less before clogging, the problem is in the trap. If two or more fixtures are clogged, the clog may be in the branch line, the main line, or the vent stack. When you isolate the affected area, it will help you decide how to clean out the line-and whether you need to hire a professional.

Remember, drain lines are very fragile. They are probably more fragile than you would expect because of all the fixtures attached to them. You will need to be careful when using chemicals and augering. Some chemicals can weaken the walls of the drain lines, and augers can shatter porcelain fixtures. If either one of those don’t work, try to snake the line, but work slowly and carefully. There is a risk when you use chemicals. It is best to avoid them if possible. But if you do decide to use one, be sure that you FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS when using it. Never use a drain cleaner on a clogged drain or in a toilet, and never pour acid in standing water.

Only compression valves have valve seats. When repairing a compression valve, check to see if the valve seats need to be resurfaced. You will need to stick your finger down into the faucet body to feel if the valve seat is rough. If it is rough it will quickly damage a washer. You should either replace it or resurface the valve seat at the same time you are replacing the faucet washer.

Step1: TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY AND DISASSEMBLE THE FAUCET VALVE

Lower the sink stopper and cover it with a cloth to prevent loose parts from falling into the drain. Pry off the handle cap with a screwdriver. Remove the valve. Now loosen the compression valve with water-pump pliers and remove it. Make sure you keep any and all washers or O-rings with the valve and set them aside.

Step2: BACK OUT THE SEAT

Use a seat wrench to remove the valve seat. Now select an end that fits snugly into the seat. Insert the end of the wrench into the seat and tap the top to seat if firmly. The valve seat may be stuck, so the first turn should be quick and firm to release it without stripping the threads. When you have it loose, turn the wrench until you can remove the screw and take the seat out. You will need to take the old seat with you when you go to buy a new one. That way you will get the right one.

Step3: REPLACE THE SEAT

Install the new seat into the faucet. Apply pipe dope to the seat threads to seal them; insert the end of the seat wrench into the seat and set the seat in place. Now, screw the valve into place and assemble the compression valve, faucet handle, and handle cap. When you turn the water supply on make sure you go slow and check for leaks.