One of the reasons replacement windows are such a popular home improvement item is that they have an impact on both the exterior and interior of a house. They really set the atmosphere in each room. For rooms that could feature a lovely view, replacing small windows with single larger window can add quite a bit of value and appeal to a home.

Picture

A large picture window is one option for enhancing a room with a view. The largest possible picture window you can buy for your home may depend on the type of frame you want. Some manufacturers of residential windows only offer sizes up to 5’x8’ or 6’x7’ in a single pane. Additional panes can be added in geometric shapes at the top or sides of the large pane to increase the overall size of the window. Of course, a local commercial glass company can usually custom make any dimension of double paned picture window glass you’d like.

Bay/Bow

Unlike picture windows, bay or bow windows are generally made in 3 separate pieces and come in standard sizes as large as 10.5’x6.5’. They can create a much more open feel for the interior of a room because they “bow” out from the wall. Plants or other decorative items that might otherwise take up space in the room can be placed in the sunshine and out of the way on the interior window ledge. So, a deep bay window creates the effect of adding more square footage to the home without the expense of building a new room.

Making a Choice

What style will match the existing architectural feel of your home? Bay windows with inset seats are a typical choice for Victorian styles. In contrast, a large picture window or a series of several picture windows may be more appropriate for the front façade of a more modern home. However, bay windows can still be installed for kitchen, dining, or living room spaces that overlook a back yard.

Homeowners frequently select vinyl window replacements because they do not require painting and they are easy to maintain. The better quality the window is made out of the higher the price for the windows. Some vinyl replacement windows are actually wood windows with vinyl cladding (the exterior of the window is coated in vinyl). Homeowners like these ones because you get the natural wood look on the inside, and the low maintenance features on the outside.

Wood replacement windows are also still very popular. They are much more affordable and the homeowners like the natural wood look. The downside of wood windows is do require you to maintain them and paint them. Also, over time the window sill splits.

Metal/Steel window replacements are also another good alternative. The only downside of these windows is that they can be dented resulting in permanent damage.

Paint is one of the cheapest and quickest fixes that you can do to your home. Your house will look better and if you are trying to sell, you will get back more money than you invested in the paint. There are many different types of paint to choose from. Oil, Latex, Sheen (Gloss), Color or Decorative Paint.

Oil vs. Latex: Latex is what most people use because it is water-based, durable, and easy to clean up. Oil (also known as alkyd) is still available in most parts of the country. It is a little harder to work with and it isn’t easy to clean up or dispose of, but it still have uses.

Sheen (Gloss): The glossier the paint, the easier it is to clean. The more flat or less glossy, the more it hides mistakes. You should use flatter sheens on most of the walls. Use glossier sheens on trim and in kitchens, and baths, all of which get a lot of splatters, fingerprints, and other abuse.

Color: Believe it or not, white is not the only color and white on white is not the only color scheme. Though it may seem “safe”, you can do so much more. Read literature and do some research and check which scheme would work best for you. When you are ready, buy a quart and put it in the section of the wall you want to paint, then paint the trim also and live in it for a few days and see if you still like it. If it’s a disaster, redo it. If you like, finish the house.

Decorative Paint: Sponging, dragging, stippling, texturing add a lot to a room and are easy to master. Before you start on your walls, get a piece of drywall and try different techniques and color schemes.

You should always use two people when wallpapering the ceiling. Make sure you use heavy duty adhesive and give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. If you are using the same paper on the walls, paper the ceiling first and make sure to match the seams from ceiling to walls.

Step1: PRIME AND PATCH THE CEILING

Lay out the paper on the ceiling so that the strips will overlap the wall by about ½ inch. When you lay out the strip, hold a roll of paper against the ceiling at one side of the room. Now, mark on the ceiling ½ inch from the end of the roll. Go the the other side and make a similar mark.

Step2: SNAP A CHALK LINE CONNECTING THE TWO MARKS.

You will want to use blue chalk because red chalk will bleed through the paper. Cut a strip of paper to the exact length and then apply wallpaper paste activator.

Step3: WORKING IN SMALL SECTIONS, POSITION THE STRIP AGAINST THE GUIDELINE

Make sure you overlap the side wall by ½ inch and the end walls by 2 inches. Take a smooth brush and flatten the strip as you work. If you are going to cover the walls with the same paper, trim the ceiling wallpaper so it overlaps the wall by ½ inch. If you are not covering the walls then trim the excess by holding a broad knife against the corner and cutting with a razor knife.

Step4: CUT OUT A SMALL WEDGE OF WALLPAPER IN THE CORNER SO THAT THE STRIP WILL LIE SMOOTH.

Press the wallpaper into the corner with a broad knife.

Preparing the walls is as important as hanging the paper. If the surface is greasy or dirty, the paper won’t stick. Also, if there are irregularities in the wall, they may be visible on the paper’s surface. So be prepared: Wash, patch, fix, prime, seal, and size before you paper. The good thing is primers, sealers, and sizing are combined into a single product. Paint and plaster companies market many wall repair kits.

Step1: PATCH AND PRIME THE WALLS BEFORE YOU START

Primer can be white, clear, or tinted slightly to match the paper. When you have finished priming, look at the paper you selected. The pattern type determines how the strips are cut and glued on the walls. On straight-match and random-match papers, patterns along the left and right edges of the paper are the same, and the installation is straight forward.  On drop-match papers, the elements are staggered along both edges.  Aligning the pattern results in an uneven top edge, which get’s trimmed.  This will take more time and you will waste more paper but results in a  more interesting and fun patern. Cutting alternating strips from two rolls  of wallpaper will cut down on some of the wallpaper waste.

Step2: BEGIN IN THE LEAST-CONSPICUOUS INSIDE CORNER OF THE ROOM

You should position the first strip so that most of the paper is on the first wall to be pampered, with about 1/2 to 2 inches of the strip wrapping around the corner onto the adjoining wall. This helps hide the cracks they may develop in the corners. When you measure the strip, you will need to lay out the strip and measure it from the corner by the width of the paper minus the wrap. Draw a plumb line at this point, guided by a level.

Step3: CUT THE FIRST STRIP OF PAPER

You will need to cut it about 4 inches longer than needed so that it can temporarily overlap the ceiling baseboard. Then roll out the paper on a long work surface and cut the strip to length with scissors.

Step4: APPLY ACTIVATOR OR PASTE

It’s recommended to use a paste activator instead of soaking prepasted paper: It’s a stronger bond and it takes longer to dry so you can continue to move the paper around on the wall. Brush or roll on the activator. Make sure you follow the directions for the activator as well. Also, make sure you get paste ACTIVATOR not paste!

Step5: GENTLY FOLD THE ENDS TOWARD THE MIDDLE,

glued sides together with the patterned side out. The term used for this is “booking the strip”. Try not to crease the paper. Wait at least 1 minute so the paste has a chance to activate before hanging it.

Step6: HANG THE FIRST STRIP ALONG THE PLUMB LINE WITH A GENTLE BUT FIRM HAND

Start by positioning the middle of the strip, and work your way up to the top, sliding the paper to align it. Align the bottom and work it gently against the wall. Now, start from the top and work your way down the wall and smooth the paper onto the wall with a brush or a flexable plastic smoother.

Step7: HANG THE SECOND STRIP AND THEN TRIM THE FIRST

Allow the glue to dry on the first strip while you hang the second one. Then when you are done hanging it, you can go back and trim the first strip.

Step8: BUTT SUBSEQUENT STRIPS AGAINST EACH OTHER

When you have finished hanging a few strips, go over the seams between them with a seam roller to fix the edges in place. Be careful not to force too much paste out from under the strips or your seams will loosen. Use clean warm water and a sponge to remove excess paste from the wall. Do not use a roller on foils, flocked, or embossed papers because it may damage it. Instead, press along the seams with a smoothing brush.

Step9: PAPER OVER ELECTRIC SWITCHES AND OUTLETS

Cut away excess paper. Before you cut around an electrical box, make sure you turn the power off to the room. Make four diagonal slices, starting at the center of the box and working toward corners. Trim and make a rectangular opening, leave enough paper for the cover plate to conceal the edges.

Wouldn’t it be nice if a fresh coat of paint over a good primer would cover over stains, water marks, and mildew? When the paint is still wet it may appear to cover, but as it dries these stains will seep through and you’ll end up with a fresh coat of stained paint.

Before you prime or paint, remove all stains and mildew. It will take some elbow grease, but cleaning it before hand will save you time in the long run because you won’t have to repaint it. The best thing to use to destroy the spores that cause mildew is regular household bleach diluted with water. You will need to fix water stains at the source before you repair the wall or ceiling.

Water leaches chemicals from wood and drywall. When the mixture seeps through a wall or ceiling, it stains. Mildew is a spore in the air. Given food (paper or paint) and moisture, mildew flourishes on walls.

Step1: MIX THREE PARTS WATER TO ONE PART LAUNDRY BLEACH

You will want to mix this two solutions in a bucket. If you are sensitive to bleach, protect your eyes and hands.

Step2: APPLY LIBERALLY WITH A SPONGE

Apply again after 20 minutes even if the mold has disappeared.

Step3: RINSE OFF THE BLEACH AND DEAD MILDEW WITH CLEAN, FRESH WATER

Allow it to dry throughly before cleaning with TSP substitute. Then prime with a stain-blocking primer and paint.

Soldering copper pipe fittings isn’t hard, but you will need to practice to make perfect. It’s a good idea to gather some scraps of copper and solder a few joints until you get it right. Copper plumbing is appreciated for it’s professional look. Copper is a durable, clean functional connecting system.

Make sure that you get the L pipe instead of the M pipe. The M pipe has a thinner wall and is for heating systems. It may leak under greater pressure of a water supply system.

Step1: PREPARE THE INSIDE OF THE FITTING

You need to start with rimming the inside of each fitting with a round wire brush and sand the end of the fitting with an emery cloth. When the connections are clean it ensures a good seal.

Step2: CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE.

To do this use an emery cloth or steel wool. Use a deburring tool or the handle of a pair of pliers to deburr the inside of the pipe. If you don’t deburr the pipe a burr can cause a hum once the water starts running through the pipe. You’ll need to be careful because the edges may be sharp.

Step3: APPLY FLUX TO THE PIPE

Apply a layer of flux (lead-free soldering paste) to the end of the pipe using a flux brush. You will need to cover about 1 inch of the pipe with the flux. When you insert the pipe into the fitting make sure it is tight against the bottom of the fitting. Twist the fitting slightly to spread the flux.

Step4: UNWIND THE SOLDER WIRE

You will need at least 8 to 10 inches of the wire extended from the spool. You will need to bend the first 2 inches to a 90-degree angle.

Step5: HEAT THE FITTING

Put the pipe in both sides of the fitting so soot from the torch won’t contaminate the joint. You will need to hold the flame against the center of the fitting for 4-5 seconds or until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

Step6: TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE PIPE

Move the flame to the low end of the fitting. Now remove the flame and touch the solder against the pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is ready to solder.

Step7: APPLY MORE HEAT IF NECESSARY

After the solder melts when you touch it against the pipe, remove the flame and quickly melt ½ to ¾ inch of solder into the joint. Capillary attraction will draw the liquid solder into the joint. If your joint is properly soldered, it will show a thin bead of solder around the fitting.

Step8: CLEAN THE FITTING

Some of the plumbers will reapply flux and briefly heat the pipe to clean it further. You should always wipe away the excess solder with a rag. Be careful when handling the pipe because it will be hot. You can cool the pipe and fitting with a damp rag. Now turn on the water and check for leaks. If the joint leaks, take it apart and re-solder it.

Stippling is a subtractive finish. You apply the glaze and then you remove some of it. You do this by pouncing or bouncing the ends of a finely bristled stippling brush through wet glaze. It creates a more finely textured surface than sponging on or off. However, it does require more effort to pounce the brush over every inch of the glazed wall. A stippling brush has long bristles that cover a larger area than the end of a regular brush with each pounce. Stippling brushes are more expensive, but worth every penny to get the right effect. For the edges of the wall you should get the edge stippler. It has a narrow design that makes it easier to pounce along the edges.

You can also use stippling as an additive effect. You can dip a brush into the glaze mix and apply it to the wall lightly by slapping the bristles against the palm of your hand and splattering tiny drops of paint on the base coat.

Step1: PRACTICE AND PRIME

First apply a semigloss base coat. Brush short sections and then roll out as many of the brush strokes as possible. Finish rolling the area and paint more of the edges with the brush. Allow the base coat to dry. Mix the paint and the glaze with four parts glaze and one part paint. Only roll the section of the wall that you will be able to stipple before it begins to dry. Pounce or bounce the stippling brush on the glaze surface to create your effect. Brush on the glaze near the edges. Apply it elsewhere with a 3/8-inch roller or a foam roller. Use less glaze if you are looking for a lighter finish and apply it in random swirls with a paint brush.

Step2: STIPPLE THE GLAZE

Always work from top to bottom. Pounce the brush so that you feel a rebound from bending the bristles. Gently push to finely freckle the layer of glaze. The effect on the wall should be even. Turn your wrist between each application of the brush to avoid creating a pattern. You will need to remove excess glaze from the brush because a loaded brush won’t leave a finely textured surface. Use a rag to absorb excess finish from the bristles and to lighten the overall effect of the wall. Clean the brush after every five or six pounces. Stipple the corners. Move along the wall, rolling and stippling, section by section. In the corners use a small, stiff-bristled brush to stipple around the edges of the wall.

Removing wallpaper goes one of two ways, incredibly easy or very difficult. Be prepared for a tough job and be surprised if it’s not.

Removing wallpaper is an inexact science, get the right tools and give yourself plenty of time. Removal is the only way to guarantee the best results but if the surface is in good condition, professionals often paper or paint right over the top of the wallpaper. Make sure your decision about the condition of the wall objectively and honestly before you proceed. If you have any doubts, remove the paper. In any case repair and priming are essential. Removing non vinyl coated papers the same way you clean painted walls.

Preparation
1. Turn off the power at the circuit breaker panel, then remove all switch and outlet covers on the walls you are stripping. Cover switches and outlets with blue painter’s masking tape. Cover the floor with moisture proof drop cloth. Then apply 12 inch baseboard masking and painters tape to the baseboards. Allow it to overlap the drop cloth for complete coverage.

2. Perforate the wallpaper for water penetration. A perforation tool is available at most hardware stores. Apply just enough pressure to perforate the wallpaper without damaging the underlying drywall.  

Here is a great do it yourself home upgrade option. When painting interior bricks for greater beauty and ascetics, first scrub thoroughly with a TSP solution and a brush with firm, synthetic bristles. Wear goggles and protective gloves. Rinse at least twice. TSP is a suds free cleaner you may not see residue, but it will interfere with adhesion. Allow the surface to dry thoroughly. Second, repair joints with thinset mortar and small trowel, called a tuck pointer. Brush wet mortar off bricks with a stiff brush as you go. For a finished edge, smooth joints and corners with a tool called a jointer or with a copper pipe. Allow to dry completely. Mask adjacent surfaces with painters tape. Spread drop cloths to help keep paint spatter and drips off adjacent surfaces. And third finally, apply latex primer specially formulated for brick, masonry and stucco using a roller with a one inch nap. Let the primer dry and roll on a semi-gloss or gloss latex paint. Touch up corners, cracks and crevices with a one inch brush. This up grade can be the difference in a buyers opinion of a property by simple seeing that even the small parts of the home are of importance in the overall maintenance and upkeep.

There are so many different paint choices on the market today, that it can be difficult to find the one that would best fit your needs. Color choices can alone be overwhelming not to mention what type of paint. Do you use flat, glossy, or semi-gloss?

When choosing what kind of pain that you want, you will want to think about how you want the finished product to look. Do you want something that will shine, or do you want a nice matte finish? A flat paint will give the matte finish. This kind of paint is great for hallways and bathrooms. Flat enamel paint will hold up well to the occasional cleaning. Flat paint is ranked high among homeowners who have small children.

A semi-gloss finish, also often referred to as a satin finish, will give any room a nice glow. This is often recommended for family rooms or bonus rooms. You will want this paint to be enamel paint. Enamel paint holds up best to all the wear and tear a home is put through. Many homeowners choose this paint for the warmth that it can add to a home.

High gloss paint is mainly recommended for large areas. Using a glossy paint in a small room can become over powering though rooms that are dark can handle the sheen of the glossy paint. Many homeowners will use this paint in low lighted areas such as basements and closets areas. It is also more commonly used on cabinets and furniture to give it a high shine appearance.

You are vulnerable to particulate and fumes when you are sanding, painting or working with solvents. To protect your skin, wear cotton gloves when using sharp or abrasive tools. Wear latex gloves when working with paint, or handling solvents, strippers and harsh chemicals. To protect your eyes always wear safety glasses when working with tools. To protect against aerosol droplets when sanding, spraying or painting over you head you should protect your eyes with safety goggles.

To protect your lungs you should sand, paint or strip outside or in a cross ventilated area with a minimum of two open doors or windows. If there is a danger of breathing dust, aerosols or solvent fumes, filter the air with a respirator. Be sure to check the product labels for the recommended type. There are two types of respirators: dust masks, also called particulate respirators, filter out dry particles and most non oil based liquid droplets. Cartridge respirators contain both particulate filters and chemically active canisters for absorbing solvent vapors.  Use a cartridge respirator when spraying solvent based paints and working with solvents and strippers. Most importantly accept no substitutes for safety. To avoid toxic fumes wear masks that the manufacturer has expressly recommended for you particular job.