Natural lighting for bathrooms can come from two different sources. The first is a window in an exterior wall. The alternative is a skylight. These can look like a window in the ceiling; or they can be a bit more inconspicuous, such as a solar tube.

It’s often simply inconvenient to have a normal window in the bathroom. It takes up too much wall space that can be used for other things such storage, mirrors, etc. For a bathroom that is centrally located, a window isn’t an option at all. In contrast, skylights are out of the way and do not require an exterior wall.

Some people suggest installing skylights with venting units that can be opened to increase airflow and reduce humidity in the bathroom. Often, such systems are inconvenient to operate. They simply don’t get opened nearly as often as they should. A completely sealed, fixed skylight unit is usually a better choice. A separate vent fan unit should be installed to control the ventilation in the bathroom properly.

Additional Considerations in Skylight Selection

If a roof has load bearing trusses in the area over the bathroom, a large skylight can be a significant problem to install. While conventional rafters can be adjusted, trusses should be left alone. An improper redistribution of the loads could cause the roof to eventually warp or even collapse. A possible solution to avoid this is to install several small skylights instead of just a single large one.

Tubular skylights can be more efficient at capturing the sunlight from any angle and diverting it into an interior bathroom. They’re typically easier to install than rectangular types and will fit into most tight spaces.

Don’t buy the cheapest brand. Over several years seals can break. Condensation can build up on the glass. Rain can seep into an already humid environment. It’s best to buy a brand with a lengthy warranty that is durable enough to last for most of the lifetime of the house.

It is always a good idea to install GFCI outlets in bathrooms for the highest level of safety. These ground fault circuit interrupter outlets provide an added level of protection from short circuits in areas that may get damp. These are essential for reducing the risk of electrical shock. Many newer homes have these in place already, but older houses require an upgrade.

Along with your GFCI outlet terminal, purchase a circuit tester plug or analyzer. These are available at hardware or home improvement stores. You will use this device to check for any potential problems with the existing wiring. If you find that an outlet has been incorrectly wired, you need to fix it before installing a new GFCI outlet. Most GFCI outlets have test and reset buttons for periodic maintenance. These are not the same thing as the circuit analyzer and don’t serve the same purpose.

Replacing a Receptacle

1. Test the existing outlet with the analyzer to make sure it’s wired correctly
2. Turn off the power to the receptacle at the circuit breaker box
3. Remove the outlet cover
4. Unscrew the receptacle plug from the electrical junction box
5. Pull it out of the junction box to gain easy access to the wiring
6. Mark all wires so that you know which ones are which. There should be 3 types of wires: positive, negative, and ground. Additionally, there might be 2 or more sets of these in the box. It will depend on whether there are additional outlets on the same circuit. Keep track of which are line wires and which are load wires too.
7. Disconnect the marked wires from the old receptacle’s terminal screws
8. Connect those wires onto the new GFCI outlet terminals. The line wires coming directly from the circuit breaker box should be connected to the appropriate line terminals. All other wires need to be connected to the matching ones that are marked ‘load’.
9. Mount or screw on the new receptacle to the junction box
10. Install a new electrical outlet gasket that fits over the receptacle
11. Reinstall the cover
12. Turn the power back on
13. Retest the outlet with the analyzer
14. Test all outlets on the same circuit to make sure they all work properly too

When you upgrade your bathrooms, don’t forget to consider putting in a fancier door as well. Bathroom doors need not be a simple 24” white painted wooden construction. There are a variety of choices and themes available.

Accessibility

The door frame can be expanded to make the room fully accessible. This requires some carpentry and drywall experience, but can be completed in a weekend. Additionally, the bathroom door can be hung in reverse so that it opens outward into a hallway rather than inward. This sometimes allows more space to get in and out. A swing away door hinge can also be installed to add an extra 2” of clearance.

A Distinctive Look

The door itself can have frosted glass insets to give it an entirely new feel. This affords privacy, but the light shines through. It is also easy to tell whether the room occupied. Stain glass in particular turns the bathroom door into artwork.

Hardware can also be updated to change the look of an existing door. Install a new handle or door knob that is decorative and functional for an affordable makeover. Or, you could consider painting the side of the door that faces into the bathroom to make it match or compliment your new wall coverings.

A Practical Approach

Accessories can be added onto existing doors or built into a new door. This includes door hooks for hanging your bathrobe, clothes, or an extra towel. A storage rack can be added for other bathroom accessories as long as the unit doesn’t keep the door from opening fully. Remember to ensure the hinges are screwed in place tightly since added weight on the door can place strain on the hinge mechanisms.

There are plenty of different types of wall coverings for bathrooms. But tile has definitely stood the test of time for its versatility and attractive finish. You can tile the area around the tub, put in a backsplash behind the sink, or cover the whole wall with tile. It all depends on the effect you want and how much time/money you are ready spend.

Getting It Right

An enormous range of sizes are available, but walls generally feature smaller tiles than floors. If you can find tiles that will fit edge to edge across a wall exactly, that’s perfect. If that’s not possible, a larger tile size will usually look better cut in half than a small tile. If you do use very small tiles, pick ones that come fixed in a matrix in prefabricated sections. This makes installation faster and more accurate.

Tips & Know How

• Dry surfaces are required. Give the entire bathroom space time to dry out completely before starting. After the project is completed, you will need to allow another 48 hours of drying time.
• Include proper spacing between the tiles for grout during the initial measuring process.
• Insert spacers to help keep the tile in alignment while the adhesives dry. These are especially important for wall tiles because gravity tends to make them shift downward.
• Use a good grout sealer as a final step once everything else has been cleaned up and dried out.

Faucets and sinks shouldn’t be overlooked when considering accessibility, safety, and ease of use for bathrooms. The height of a sink and how far the user has to reach to operate the handles is something to think about when installing facilities. If someone is using a wheelchair or a walker, they shouldn’t be forced to lean too far forward to use a sink. Small children should be able to reach a high sink using a sturdy step stool that will not shift or tip over. A step stool that slides out from under the sink is one option to consider since it can be stored out of the way when not in use.

Faucet Considerations

Certain types of faucets are more difficult to use than others. For someone with limited muscle control, chronic hand pain, or severe arthritis, twisting a knob can be a challenging task. Traditional faucet handles that have to be gripped and twisted can be replaced by lever style handles that make it easier to turn the water on or off.

Streamlined single touch faucets that respond to light hand pressure are available for both kitchen and bathroom sinks and are simple for pretty much everyone to use. In certain circumstances, it might be best to install an infrared motion sensor that automatically turns the water on and off as needed.

Adding an anti-scald temperature controller is another great idea. This makes the bathroom sink safer for small children. It also makes sense for individuals with limited sensation in their hands who may not be aware that the water is hot enough to cause injury.

Modifying the bathrooms in your house to make them more accessible is actually a smart idea even if you don’t currently have someone with a disability in your family. It’s wise to keep in mind that each one of us is only temporarily able-bodied. If you love your home and plan to “age in place” or if you anticipate bringing an elderly parent into your household at some point, it’s a good idea to make modifications now. This will be an additional benefit if you or a family member experiences an unexpected injury or illness. Here are the top factors to take into consideration when planning this type of home improvement project.

Wider Door

Many architects and contractors fail to realize the problems associated with a 24” bathroom door for elderly and disabled home owners. That’s the standard residential size and is entirely too small for a wheelchair to get through. While some bathroom doors are a bit larger, they are rarely the 32” minimum needed for access. If there is a corner that must be navigated, then a minimum of 36” of clearance width is required. A project like widening a bathroom door takes two people with moderate carpentry and drywall skills about 8 hours to finish.

Bathtub & Toilet

High tub walls can make it extremely hazardous for someone struggling to get in or out. The slightest amount of moisture can create slick surfaces that increase the risk of falling. Both showers and tubs can be difficult to maneuver without hand holds. Consider installing grab bars in these areas to increase safety for all users. Also, consider adding a seat option in the shower or choosing a walk in tub with a door that eliminates the need to step in and out over the side. Grab bars near the toilet can make it easier for a person in a wheelchair to transfer to and from the seat. Most of these items can be readily installed by anyone with the proper tools and a good set of instructions.

The existing look and feel of ceiling textures in your bathrooms was probably determined at the time your house was built. Different builders tend to create their own unique patterns based on their preferred technique. The end result depends on what kind of trowel is used to spread the “mud” and exactly how it is applied. Some contractors use a spray gun for quick applications such as a popcorn style ceiling. Others create a combed look by swirling motions with a special comb style trowel. Textures can also be “painted” on to the ceiling with a roller.

When you are doing repairs, you want to try to match the texture that is already present. However, it may be simpler to start over. If you are removing an old ceiling texture to make way for a new look, be aware that popcorn coatings installed before the early 1980’s sometimes contained asbestos. A licensed professional may be needed to remove this material for safety reasons.

Tips for Ceiling Refinishing

Bathrooms are humid environments. The drywall joint compounds and mud that you use to create the ceiling and wall textures should have some sort of fungicide mixed in to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Also, the paint covering the ceilings should be safe for use in wet areas. This is especially true near any shower. A semi-gloss paint is usually a good choice.

Mud comes premixed and should be very wet when purchased so that it can be easily manipulated. If you must add water, make sure you know exactly what you are doing. Any inconsistency will cause cracks during the drying phase. Work fast and spread the material thin. This will help ensure a consistent layer over the entire drywall

Are you planning to replace the faucets in your bathrooms? Consider installing new drains as well. Matching the style and material of the drain to the faucet is a design detail that is often overlooked. Sometimes replacing a drain seems to be more trouble than it’s worth. That may be the case when the old drain flange or cover is corroded or damaged – making it difficult to remove with a wrench.

In such cases, you may be tempted to simply buy a plug or stopper to fit over the drain instead of replacing it altogether. This cheap fix costs only a couple of dollars and is a viable short term solution. However, with an “inside out” wrench you can usually remove any stuck parts easily making this home improvement project simpler than it first appeared. Then, a new flange and drain cover can be installed without much risk of damaging the threads on the existing drainage pipes.

If you are installing a basin or a tub, a new drain is a must. It is just a whole lot easier to work with all new parts including drain pipes, traps, and tail piece rather than trying to make the old components fit together with the new. If the drain in question is in the bath or shower, you must find a way to gain access to the pipes behind the tub. Most homes built in the last 30 years have an access panel hidden in a closet, hallway, or garage (some place that is not noticed very often). If your home doesn’t have one, it best to find a way to build an access panel so that maintenance in the future will be a whole lot easier.

Glass blocks are an ideal medium to create custom shaped, semi-private windows, room dividers, and walls (especially in bathrooms). A series of prefabricated glass blocks in the form of a panel can be used to replace any traditional window. Used as building blocks, these glass cubes add a nice finishing touch to modern construction. In fact, they are much more versatile than many other types of building materials.

Glass blocks refract light and obscure the view – creating plenty of privacy. At the same time, up to 80% of all light freely passes through them. This vastly reduces need for additional interior lighting during the day. They also maintain much greater security than plate glass windows.

Glass blocks are tough. They are water proof and will not easily break, chip or scratch. If damage does occur, an individual block can be readily replaced instead of the entire window. This is true even for individual blocks pre-cast in a panel. They are mortared together with a latex and acrylic mix that creates a superior water resistant seal and protects against thermal shock.

Many shapes and sizes of blocks are available. Modern styles include beveled edges that allow the construction of curved surfaces. They are available in a vast array of colors and designs. This creates an opportunity for introducing inventive architectural concepts in your bathroom.

Believe it or not, hardwood floors are a viable option for many bathrooms. You’ve heard the old mantra that “water and wood don’t mix”. Many people shy away from having wood flooring in their bathrooms because of fears about water damage and/or mold growth. Yet, today’s polyurethane finishes make wood products particularly moisture resistant.

Plasticizers, synthetic resins, and film-forming transparent sealers create very effective protective barriers. These modern surfacing products expand and contract along with the underlying wood. So, the watertight seals they create remain intact. Modern hardwood floors can withstand most humid environments with the exception of the most saturated conditions. This means that the occasional splash of water and the average humidity found in most bathrooms don’t necessarily pose an insurmountable problem.

It’s a good idea to make sure that you actually install a hardwood. Softer woods such as pine are much more susceptible to water absorption and should be avoided. Some of the best hardwood floors for a bathroom are made from maple, oak, walnut, cherry, ash or hickory. These tend to not absorb much moisture in the air even without sealers. Once you install hardwood floors in your bathroom, add one or more decorative bathmats to prevent significant amounts of water pooling on the floor. If water does come in contact with the wood, simply wipe it off with a dry towel.

Despite the fact that the era of the McMansion is drawing to a close, homeowners still want spacious luxury and convenience built into their master bathrooms. This can sometimes be accomplished by integrating certain traditional elements of the bathroom into the master bedroom. Creating the illusion of space is all about making intelligent use of what you have available. You might consider remodeling this area of the house to include a layout that blurs the distinction between the bathroom and the bedroom.

A pedestal sink can be installed in the open space of the bedroom in a style reminiscent of an old fashioned wash basin. Separating the different spaces within the bathroom can also increase the efficient use of space. For example, locating the commode inside a separate water closet (with its own door or screen for privacy) allows one person to use the toilet while someone else is showering.

Some people want their entire vanity and sink placed conveniently near their walk-in closet, dresser, or perhaps near their bed. Others prefer their walk-in closet to be an extension of the actual bathroom because that’s where they tend to get dressed after a morning shower. The point is that you don’t have to group all the features associated with “bathroom” together. You can change things around so that their placement is more convenient for your daily hygiene habits.

As discussed in part 1 of this series, if you spot a water leak in one of your bathrooms, it is important for you to act promptly. This means you need to know where the main water valve is located ahead of time. That way, you can shut it off as soon as possible to prevent extensive damage. The main line shut off valve is usually outside of the house near the water meter. Make sure you have access to this area in case of an emergency. Auxiliary shut off valves are usually behind the toilet and under the sink basin. Once the water is turned off, clean the area and follow the water trail. You should be able to identify the general vicinity where the leak started.

Moisture Detection Tip

There should be a clear dripping pattern or stain in the area of the leak. This can often be observed from underneath the basin of a sink. If it seems to be dry, then use a paper towel to probe the entire area. If the towel soaks up any moisture, then you know where the leak is.

If you suspect that the leak is coming from elsewhere in the bathroom, that’s OK. The same paper towel trick can be used along any pipe connection, valve, or handle. You can also confirm the specific spot by temporarily turning the water back on. That way you can tell if the water is coming from a pipe under pressure or if it is leaking from a drain.

Additional Bathtub Drain Check

Tub drainage pipes can become dislodged or a seal might break. To confirm a bathtub drainage leak, you will need to fill up the tub with water using buckets filled from another location such as the bathroom sink. This is inconvenient but necessary. That’s because you need to isolate whether the leak is a drain, faucet, or showerhead. If you run water from the tub faucet, this will make it more difficult to identify where the water is coming from.