Are you considering replacing your gutters? One alternative option developed by an MIT engineer is called the ‘Rainhandler’. Its design diverts rainwater from the roof over an area 2 to 4 feet beyond the eaves. There are no downspouts in this aluminum system. The rain is dispersed through specially designed slits upon reaching the edge of the roof.

One of the biggest advantages of this design is that it rarely gets clogged. It can be easily cleaned with a water hose and sprayer operated from ground level. This means you don’t have to worry about falling off a ladder while cleaning your gutters.

This rain handling system also prevents a ‘cutline’ from developing on the ground along the perimeter of the roof. This erosion feature is an ‘eyesore’ commonly seen in residential landscaping under traditional gutters that have become clogged or overloaded during a storm. Besides being unsightly, these depressions can permit pooling of water that will eventually damage a home’s foundation.

The only way a Rainhandler system could be overloaded is when three sloping roof sections meet to collect water at a single point. This might occur for a short span along the roofline of a U-shaped building. In such a unique circumstance, installing a very limited section of  traditional guttering is recommended. However, the rest of the building can still be adequately handled by the Rainhandler. 

A different alternative system called ‘RainbreakerZ’ features tiny perforations in stainless steel plates that are configured much like those of the Rainhandler. It works in a similar fashion - but the RainbreakerZ attempts to make a single large raindrop disperse through 19 separate holes. Theoretically this reduces the impact on the soil and vegetation below.

If you redo the trim on your house, you will probably want to paint your gutter system to match. The paint on galvanized materials often gets chipped over time. Vinyl gutters can become discolored as they age. A good coat of fresh paint can make these older gutters look like new again.

Basic Tips For Gutter Painting

For best results, disassemble the gutter system prior to cleaning and painting it. Vinyl gutters often come in lengths that will fit inside your garage. Extruded metal pieces generally run the length of your house and will have to be laid out and painted outdoors. Place all gutter sections on a flat surface away from dust and other debris.

Clean the gutters and downspouts thoroughly. All residue and grit must be removed from the surface so that the paint can adhere properly without peeling.

Get rid of all rust on metal surfaces. Use a wire brush and/or sandpaper when necessary. Paint remover may help in some circumstances. Finish cleaning any galvanized surfaces by wiping them down with mineral spirits or a similar solvent.

Use soap and a sponge to removed caked dirt from vinyl. Then, rinse the vinyl gutters thoroughly with water and let them air dry.

Metal gutters and downspouts need a layer of primer to treat the surface and ensure the paint sticks. Allow the primer coat to dry overnight. Vinyl parts don’t need primer, so you can skip this step for plastic gutters.

Use weather resistant exterior latex paint for vinyl parts. Galvanized metal gutters should be covered with an oil based paint designed for outdoor use. Allow plenty of time for each section to dry completely before reassembly.

There is no such thing as maintenance free gutters. They need to be regularly cleaned regardless of what type of anti-clogging device you install. The biggest difference in the various types of gutter protection systems is how easy they are to maintain. Certain gutter protection devices can help keep debris out. However, fancy screening equipment may also make cleaning your gutters even more difficult once they do eventually get clogged.

Meshes or Screens: This is a just mesh or screen installed as a cover on top of any type of traditional gutter. “Gutter Guard” is a well-known brand. While these do help marginally, smaller leaves and debris can still build up and impede the drainage system. Regular cleaning is a must.

Solid Covers with Open Edge Slots: These rely on water’s tendency to adhere to surfaces to direct the liquid into the slots. Debris simply falls off the edge onto the ground. “Gutter Helmet” is an example of this type of system. In a perfect world, this works. However, in a heavy downpour this can change. Torrents of water may direct small debris into the slots and cause drainage problems.

Gutter Filters: With a filter system, sponge-like foam is used to fill the gutter space. This allows water to drain through while preventing leaves and debris from getting into the system. “Gutter Filter” is one popular brand name. While these work well for a while, any filter will eventually clog. Generally, very small dirt and debris fill up the pores of the filter. This type of debris is difficult to flush out.

When it comes to picking out new gutters for your house, you have several materials from which to choose. Aluminum, steel (galvanized or stainless), and vinyl are the most common choices. Vinyl is the cheapest material and is available in thicknesses from 1.7-2.2 mm. Durability is fairly low regardless of which gauge you choose; this material tends to turn brittle over time.

With metal gutters, the gauge does make a big difference. Thicker is better with .032 considered optimal. Steel doesn’t dent easily and aluminum is corrosion proof. Stainless steel is resistant to rust, but is more expensive than aluminum or galvanized steel. Copper is another option, but few homeowners choose this material because of its high upfront cost.

Profiles

There are 3 basic profiles for gutter channels. The basic U shape (also called the half round) is an open design that is easily accessible for cleaning. The K or ogee shape is one of the most common gutter profiles. It doesn’t have the highest capacity, but the indent along the front edge offers a little more structural support for thin gauge materials.

Fascia style rain gutters are designed to blend in with the trim on your house. They are one of the most attractive options. For any profile, you can choose a 5”, 6” or 7” size. Downspouts are generally either round or rectangular in cross section and may be smooth or corrugated. The amount of rainfall in your area plays a role in how large your gutters and downspouts need to be.

Gutter maintenance is not a favorite household task for many homeowners – especially those who have a fear of heights. However, learning to inspect and clean your gutters now can save you plenty of money down the road. How? Clogged gutters allow water to spill over the edges and pool near the foundation of your home.

Soaker hoses that keep the soil around your foundation from drying out are a good thing. A flood of water that turns the entire area into mud can be very bad. Unstable soil conditions may cause your foundation to shift – repairs can cost thousands of dollars. To avoid this, follow these simple steps:

• Trim your trees so that the branches end 3 feet from the edge of your roof. This will limit the amount of leaf and twig debris that falls into your gutters.
• Put on your rain coat and do a full inspection of your gutters during your next heavy rain storm. Note areas where water is running over the sides instead of down the spouts. These are indications of clogging. Also, look for seams that are not properly sealed. These will be dripping.
• Set up your ladder and test it for stability before climbing up to look in your gutters. Have a friend or family member standing by just in case you fall. Only climb up far enough to peek over the edge of the gutter.
• Some home maintenance specialists recommend using a hose with a spray nozzle to wash clogged material out. Others say this can cause leaves and twigs to lodge in the drain pipes where they will be difficult to remove. Try to scoop out most of the debris by hand and then rinse the rest of it out with the hose.
• Use gutter caulk to fix any seams that need sealing. For more complex repairs or if you aren’t sure how to do this, call a handyman. The cost of repairing (or even replacing) your gutters is not high if you shop around.

Learn to professionally fabricate and properly install aluminum rain gutters.
First, load the roll of coil stock aluminum right to the gutter extruding machine. Then turn on the machine and allow the machine to form about 4 feet of gutter, then immediately turn off the machine. Apply silicone adhesive around inside edge of the aluminum end cap. Use hammer if necessary to lightly tap end cap onto end of gutter for tight fit.

Pinch the end cap onto the gutter using a crimping tool. Now run a bead of silicone along seam where end cap joins the inside of the gutter. Turn the gutter-extruding machine back on to produce the desired length of gutter. Turn off machine and mark the location of the downspout outlet on the inside of the gutter. Use hammer to punch out downspout hole using manual downspout cutter.

Spread silicone adhesive generously around flange of downspout outlet. Wipe dry the area around the hole in the gutter, after which install the downspout outlet. Cut the gutters length by using the machine’s forward-pull guillotine cutter. Install the other end cap onto the remaining gutter end, again using the silicone adhesive and finally the crimping tool.

Place aluminum drop on clips by spacing them every 2 to 3 feet. Holding the gutter against the house fascia, making sure it pitches down toward the downspout ½ inch for every 10 feet of gutter. Fasten gutter to the house with hex-head screws through the hole in the drop-on clips attaching them to the fascia.