If you add bay windows to your house, it can make the house feel brighter and more spacious. It will also add a touch of elegance to the home. Wooden shades in a bay windows are necessary to provide shade from sun rays and they also add a little privacy from the outside.

Measurements

You need to measure the bay windows before you buy any type of wooden shades to make sure that the size is correct. First measure the width of each of the window panes because some bay window panes are different sizes. Now measure the length of one of the window panes, the length of the window panes should be the same for each of them. You will need to add 2 inches to this measurement for the depth of the shades.

Hanging

When you hang them, measure 2 inches above the ceiling corners of one of the window panes and mark with a pencil. Next you will need to take the bracket and line it up with these marks. Now use a drill to lightly screw in the bracket. Keep doing this step with the other bay window panes. When you have finished with all the brackets and they have been lightly attached to the wall, use a screwdriver or drill to fasten them securely into place. When all the brackets are secured, the wooden shades can be attached to the brackets.

Whenever you install base cabinets you’ll find out that they are trickier to install than wall cabinets. This is because the floor is almost never level, so you have more shunning to do. You also work around plumbing lines and that is never easy. Here is how to install them step by step.

Step1: Find the floor’s highest point where the cabinets will be installed. Now measure up 341/2 inches from that spot, and make a mark on the wall. Make sure you use a level to carry that point around the walls where the cabinets will go.

Step2: Mark wall studs for base cabinets that were not marked for upper cabinets.

Step3: You always want to start in a corner. Corner cabinets aren’t able to support a countertop on their own, so first install permanent ledger boards along the mark.

Step4: Align the adjacent cabinet with the corner unit before fastening anything in place. The standard cabinet will help ensure that the corner cabinet is positioned properly. Clamp the vertical stiles of the two cabinets’ face frames together with C-clamps. Now, you will need to drill countersunk pilot holes, then fasten them together with wood screws.

Step5: Use the level to make sure you have a perfect vertical and perfect horizontal. If you do not, use shims to make adjustments. Now fasten them into the wall with the screws driven into the wall studs that you found and marked earlier. Keep doing these steps adding one cabinet at a time by first attaching the stiles, then level it, and then screw it into the wall studs.

Final Step 6: You will need to cut holes for the plumbing lines when you install the sink base. Measure the locations of the pipes from the edge of the neighboring cabinet and up from the floor. Now transfer the measurements to the back and base of the cabinet. Mark where the holes are and cut them out with a spade drill bit for holes less than 1 ½ inches and a saw bit for the larger holes.

Paint is one of the cheapest and quickest fixes that you can do to your home. Your house will look better and if you are trying to sell, you will get back more money than you invested in the paint. There are many different types of paint to choose from. Oil, Latex, Sheen (Gloss), Color or Decorative Paint.

Oil vs. Latex: Latex is what most people use because it is water-based, durable, and easy to clean up. Oil (also known as alkyd) is still available in most parts of the country. It is a little harder to work with and it isn’t easy to clean up or dispose of, but it still have uses.

Sheen (Gloss): The glossier the paint, the easier it is to clean. The more flat or less glossy, the more it hides mistakes. You should use flatter sheens on most of the walls. Use glossier sheens on trim and in kitchens, and baths, all of which get a lot of splatters, fingerprints, and other abuse.

Color: Believe it or not, white is not the only color and white on white is not the only color scheme. Though it may seem “safe”, you can do so much more. Read literature and do some research and check which scheme would work best for you. When you are ready, buy a quart and put it in the section of the wall you want to paint, then paint the trim also and live in it for a few days and see if you still like it. If it’s a disaster, redo it. If you like, finish the house.

Decorative Paint: Sponging, dragging, stippling, texturing add a lot to a room and are easy to master. Before you start on your walls, get a piece of drywall and try different techniques and color schemes.

When your drain is stopped or really slow, it is seldom the result of collapsed or defective pipes. Blockage in the lines is usually caused from many different things. Mostly from solid waste, small objects, hair, or clumps of soap and grease. What you need to do is isolate the problem. If one of the fixtures seems to drain slow or not at all, check and see if the other fixtures have the same problem. If only one fixture is the problem, fill the sink with water. If the water drains for two seconds or less before clogging, the problem is in the trap. If two or more fixtures are clogged, the clog may be in the branch line, the main line, or the vent stack. When you isolate the affected area, it will help you decide how to clean out the line-and whether you need to hire a professional.

Remember, drain lines are very fragile. They are probably more fragile than you would expect because of all the fixtures attached to them. You will need to be careful when using chemicals and augering. Some chemicals can weaken the walls of the drain lines, and augers can shatter porcelain fixtures. If either one of those don’t work, try to snake the line, but work slowly and carefully. There is a risk when you use chemicals. It is best to avoid them if possible. But if you do decide to use one, be sure that you FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS when using it. Never use a drain cleaner on a clogged drain or in a toilet, and never pour acid in standing water.

You should always use two people when wallpapering the ceiling. Make sure you use heavy duty adhesive and give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. If you are using the same paper on the walls, paper the ceiling first and make sure to match the seams from ceiling to walls.

Step1: PRIME AND PATCH THE CEILING

Lay out the paper on the ceiling so that the strips will overlap the wall by about ½ inch. When you lay out the strip, hold a roll of paper against the ceiling at one side of the room. Now, mark on the ceiling ½ inch from the end of the roll. Go the the other side and make a similar mark.

Step2: SNAP A CHALK LINE CONNECTING THE TWO MARKS.

You will want to use blue chalk because red chalk will bleed through the paper. Cut a strip of paper to the exact length and then apply wallpaper paste activator.

Step3: WORKING IN SMALL SECTIONS, POSITION THE STRIP AGAINST THE GUIDELINE

Make sure you overlap the side wall by ½ inch and the end walls by 2 inches. Take a smooth brush and flatten the strip as you work. If you are going to cover the walls with the same paper, trim the ceiling wallpaper so it overlaps the wall by ½ inch. If you are not covering the walls then trim the excess by holding a broad knife against the corner and cutting with a razor knife.

Step4: CUT OUT A SMALL WEDGE OF WALLPAPER IN THE CORNER SO THAT THE STRIP WILL LIE SMOOTH.

Press the wallpaper into the corner with a broad knife.

Wouldn’t it be nice if a fresh coat of paint over a good primer would cover over stains, water marks, and mildew? When the paint is still wet it may appear to cover, but as it dries these stains will seep through and you’ll end up with a fresh coat of stained paint.

Before you prime or paint, remove all stains and mildew. It will take some elbow grease, but cleaning it before hand will save you time in the long run because you won’t have to repaint it. The best thing to use to destroy the spores that cause mildew is regular household bleach diluted with water. You will need to fix water stains at the source before you repair the wall or ceiling.

Water leaches chemicals from wood and drywall. When the mixture seeps through a wall or ceiling, it stains. Mildew is a spore in the air. Given food (paper or paint) and moisture, mildew flourishes on walls.

Step1: MIX THREE PARTS WATER TO ONE PART LAUNDRY BLEACH

You will want to mix this two solutions in a bucket. If you are sensitive to bleach, protect your eyes and hands.

Step2: APPLY LIBERALLY WITH A SPONGE

Apply again after 20 minutes even if the mold has disappeared.

Step3: RINSE OFF THE BLEACH AND DEAD MILDEW WITH CLEAN, FRESH WATER

Allow it to dry throughly before cleaning with TSP substitute. Then prime with a stain-blocking primer and paint.

CPVC is used for hot and cold water supply. It is cheaper to but than copper and it is just as durable. It also withstands high temperatures and pressure in the supply system. It’s easy to cut with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and connections are easy and quick to assemble. You can get one-step cements for CPVC and eliminate the purple primer. You need to make sure that one-step cements are allowed and that they meet your codes before you use them. Also, check the local codes carefully to determine whether or not you need to use primer.

Step1: DEBURR THE PIPE

Make sure you remove the burrs to ensure even coverage with the primer and cement. After you have deburred, sand lightly with an emery cloth, that way the pipe will sit in the bottom of the fitting.

Step2: COAT THE SURFACES WITH PRIMER IF REQUIRED

Apply an even coat of primer to the pipe and the fitting. Primer will soften the pipe to help seat it and reacts with the cement to make a permanent bond. Make sure you use a purple primer if you are required under code to primer. That way the inspector will be able to easily see it.

Step3: APPLY THE CEMENT AND ASSEMBLE THE PARTS QUICKLY AND CAREFULLY

You will need a dauber to apply an even coat of cement to the pipe and fitting and insert the pipe all the way into the fitting until it stops. Make sure you twist the pipe a quarter of a turn to spread the cement evenly. Hold the pipe for 30 seconds to prevent the heat made by the cement from pushing apart the connections. Wipe off the excess cement with a clean rag.

Windows take a good beating all the time. The finish degrades. The effects
of the sunlight and moisture make it necessary to sand and strip the window. Most windows installed before the 1950′s were done with clear finishes and they were shellacked. Then came lacquers and now polyurethane is the standard for homeowners. If you won’t be stripping the old finish,sand carefully to ensure that the new coats adhere well.  What about stripping a painted window and finishing it clear? You face the challenge of coaxing paint from the crevices of the trim, the window frame, and all the molding. It can be done, but it’s not easy. Take a good look and assess how much work you have ahead of you. You may want to send the woodwork out to a dip-and-strip shop.

Step1: SAND OR STRIP THE EXISTING FINISH

If your window is in good condition, you can sand it to smooth the finish and dull the sheen. Make sure you cover your work area with a cheap drop cloth. Start with 120-grit sandpaper; after most of the work is done,  finish sanding it with 180-grit sandpaper for a smoother surface. If the sash doesn’t just pop out, you may have to carefully pry off trim pieces. Brush paint and varnish remover onto the window sashes. Make sure there is good ventilation and wear rubber gloves and a vapor respirator. Scrape off the finish with a putty knife. Rinse with the right solvent that is  recommended for the remover.

Step2: FILL HOLES

You can use wood putty to fill the flaws. You will want to spot-sand those areas when you are done. If you are using an oil-based finish, go over the window with a tack cloth or damp paper towel if you are using a water-based finish. There is not a putty that will match the wood exactly.  You can stain the wood and use a stainable putty that will absorb the  stain and come close to a match. But keep in mind, it won’t be a perfect  match. Try different brands to see which works the best for you.

Step3: MASK PANES

Use masking tape so you don’t get the finish on the glass. The low-tack  tapes are easy to remove and they leave less residue. They will also work  when you mask off the trim too. The white and blue rolls stick better than  the brown so I suggest you use those. There are a lot of low-tack tapes  out there, so read the labels and find out which one will work best for  you. Mask the two side edges of the sash; they are usually left unfinished so the finish won’t stick when you open the window.

Step4: APPLY THE STAIN AND FINISH

If the window is stripped and you want to darken it or just stain it, do it now. The stain will only work evenly if you have throughly removed the old finish. If the window is made with a soft wood, you will have an additional problem staining it. Soft wood will absorb the stain unevenly and it will look blotchy. Apply a gel stain if the wood is soft, it won’t blotch because the gel doesn’t soak deep enough into the wood.  Apply at least two coats for best results. Sills take the worst of the weather so I would apply three coats there.

Step5: REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE

As soon as the finish begins to dry, remove the the tape from the glass to prevent adhesive residue. If you have residue on the windows, draw a sharp utility knife along the edges of each pane.

There so many different home improvement stores around. They all want you to come in and purchase things for a major remodel. Often time’s people do not realize that there are small simple things that can be done, that will really help modernize their home. Replacing fixtures, door knobs, painting, and simply organizing can really have a major impact on your home. You do not have to rip down walls or add a new room to help create a newer feel to your home.

If you are looking for something different all over your home, you should try painting and replacing door knobs. I know that this does not sound like much, but you would be surprised at how a simple change can have such an impact. A new door knob can change the entire appearance of the door. It can go from looking old fashioned to a more modern look. If you have a room that seems small and uninviting, you can try a new paint color that will make the room seem larger. Light, bright colors can make a room more inviting as well.

Replacing fixture in the bathroom can really change the look of this room as well .There is many different options available that you will not be limited to a certain time period. That can be a problem among homes that were built 20 to 30 years ago. Everyone has the same thing. This is a simple fix that can make your home stand apart from all the others. It does not take major remodel to really update a home. The simple little changes can have a major impact as well.