When your drain is stopped or really slow, it is seldom the result of collapsed or defective pipes. Blockage in the lines is usually caused from many different things. Mostly from solid waste, small objects, hair, or clumps of soap and grease. What you need to do is isolate the problem. If one of the fixtures seems to drain slow or not at all, check and see if the other fixtures have the same problem. If only one fixture is the problem, fill the sink with water. If the water drains for two seconds or less before clogging, the problem is in the trap. If two or more fixtures are clogged, the clog may be in the branch line, the main line, or the vent stack. When you isolate the affected area, it will help you decide how to clean out the line-and whether you need to hire a professional.

Remember, drain lines are very fragile. They are probably more fragile than you would expect because of all the fixtures attached to them. You will need to be careful when using chemicals and augering. Some chemicals can weaken the walls of the drain lines, and augers can shatter porcelain fixtures. If either one of those don’t work, try to snake the line, but work slowly and carefully. There is a risk when you use chemicals. It is best to avoid them if possible. But if you do decide to use one, be sure that you FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS when using it. Never use a drain cleaner on a clogged drain or in a toilet, and never pour acid in standing water.

Only compression valves have valve seats. When repairing a compression valve, check to see if the valve seats need to be resurfaced. You will need to stick your finger down into the faucet body to feel if the valve seat is rough. If it is rough it will quickly damage a washer. You should either replace it or resurface the valve seat at the same time you are replacing the faucet washer.

Step1: TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY AND DISASSEMBLE THE FAUCET VALVE

Lower the sink stopper and cover it with a cloth to prevent loose parts from falling into the drain. Pry off the handle cap with a screwdriver. Remove the valve. Now loosen the compression valve with water-pump pliers and remove it. Make sure you keep any and all washers or O-rings with the valve and set them aside.

Step2: BACK OUT THE SEAT

Use a seat wrench to remove the valve seat. Now select an end that fits snugly into the seat. Insert the end of the wrench into the seat and tap the top to seat if firmly. The valve seat may be stuck, so the first turn should be quick and firm to release it without stripping the threads. When you have it loose, turn the wrench until you can remove the screw and take the seat out. You will need to take the old seat with you when you go to buy a new one. That way you will get the right one.

Step3: REPLACE THE SEAT

Install the new seat into the faucet. Apply pipe dope to the seat threads to seal them; insert the end of the seat wrench into the seat and set the seat in place. Now, screw the valve into place and assemble the compression valve, faucet handle, and handle cap. When you turn the water supply on make sure you go slow and check for leaks.

Shutoff valves let you turn on and off the water near your fixtures so you don’t have to shut off the water to the entire house to make repairs. They attach in different ways: by soldering, threading, or compression fittings. Compression fittings are the easiest to install and don’t require pipe dope, or compound. A metal sleeve makes the fitting watertight, as long as you install it right. Make sure you turn the water off before you start working. You will need to open the faucet you are working on and another one somewhere below it in the house so you can drain all the water out of  it.

Step1: DISCONNECT THE SUPPLY PIPE

Before you start, turn off the main water supply to the house. Unscrew the supply pipe at the wall. You will need to cut it with a mini-pipe tubing cutter or a mini-hacksaw if it is solder ti the wall. Make sure you are careful when cutting the tube. If it is out of round, the compression fitting will leak. Leave enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to install the fitting. Deburr the pipe with an emery cloth. Now slide the compression nut over the supply pipe as far back as you can.

Step2: PLACE THE COMPRESSION RING OVER THE END OF THE SUPPLY PIPE

The end should completely cover the end of the supply pipe. Thread the compression valve into the compression nut. The valve should slide snugly over the ring. Hand tighten the nut. If it doesn’t turn easily, add a tiny drop of oil to the threads. Don’t use pipe compound; the fitting doesn’t require it, and it can make the fitting leak.

Step3: TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION VALVE TO THE NUT BUT DON’T OVER TIGHTEN IT

You will need one wrench to hold the back of the valve and keep it square and another to turn the nut. Follow the same procedure you used to install the valve to attach the supply lines. Only turn the water on for a second and let it flow into a bucket to flush the lines before installing the fixtures.

Soldering copper pipe fittings isn’t hard, but you will need to practice to make perfect. It’s a good idea to gather some scraps of copper and solder a few joints until you get it right. Copper plumbing is appreciated for it’s professional look. Copper is a durable, clean functional connecting system.

Make sure that you get the L pipe instead of the M pipe. The M pipe has a thinner wall and is for heating systems. It may leak under greater pressure of a water supply system.

Step1: PREPARE THE INSIDE OF THE FITTING

You need to start with rimming the inside of each fitting with a round wire brush and sand the end of the fitting with an emery cloth. When the connections are clean it ensures a good seal.

Step2: CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE.

To do this use an emery cloth or steel wool. Use a deburring tool or the handle of a pair of pliers to deburr the inside of the pipe. If you don’t deburr the pipe a burr can cause a hum once the water starts running through the pipe. You’ll need to be careful because the edges may be sharp.

Step3: APPLY FLUX TO THE PIPE

Apply a layer of flux (lead-free soldering paste) to the end of the pipe using a flux brush. You will need to cover about 1 inch of the pipe with the flux. When you insert the pipe into the fitting make sure it is tight against the bottom of the fitting. Twist the fitting slightly to spread the flux.

Step4: UNWIND THE SOLDER WIRE

You will need at least 8 to 10 inches of the wire extended from the spool. You will need to bend the first 2 inches to a 90-degree angle.

Step5: HEAT THE FITTING

Put the pipe in both sides of the fitting so soot from the torch won’t contaminate the joint. You will need to hold the flame against the center of the fitting for 4-5 seconds or until the soldering paste begins to sizzle.

Step6: TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE PIPE

Move the flame to the low end of the fitting. Now remove the flame and touch the solder against the pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is ready to solder.

Step7: APPLY MORE HEAT IF NECESSARY

After the solder melts when you touch it against the pipe, remove the flame and quickly melt ½ to ¾ inch of solder into the joint. Capillary attraction will draw the liquid solder into the joint. If your joint is properly soldered, it will show a thin bead of solder around the fitting.

Step8: CLEAN THE FITTING

Some of the plumbers will reapply flux and briefly heat the pipe to clean it further. You should always wipe away the excess solder with a rag. Be careful when handling the pipe because it will be hot. You can cool the pipe and fitting with a damp rag. Now turn on the water and check for leaks. If the joint leaks, take it apart and re-solder it.

CPVC is used for hot and cold water supply. It is cheaper to but than copper and it is just as durable. It also withstands high temperatures and pressure in the supply system. It’s easy to cut with a hacksaw or tubing cutter and connections are easy and quick to assemble. You can get one-step cements for CPVC and eliminate the purple primer. You need to make sure that one-step cements are allowed and that they meet your codes before you use them. Also, check the local codes carefully to determine whether or not you need to use primer.

Step1: DEBURR THE PIPE

Make sure you remove the burrs to ensure even coverage with the primer and cement. After you have deburred, sand lightly with an emery cloth, that way the pipe will sit in the bottom of the fitting.

Step2: COAT THE SURFACES WITH PRIMER IF REQUIRED

Apply an even coat of primer to the pipe and the fitting. Primer will soften the pipe to help seat it and reacts with the cement to make a permanent bond. Make sure you use a purple primer if you are required under code to primer. That way the inspector will be able to easily see it.

Step3: APPLY THE CEMENT AND ASSEMBLE THE PARTS QUICKLY AND CAREFULLY

You will need a dauber to apply an even coat of cement to the pipe and fitting and insert the pipe all the way into the fitting until it stops. Make sure you twist the pipe a quarter of a turn to spread the cement evenly. Hold the pipe for 30 seconds to prevent the heat made by the cement from pushing apart the connections. Wipe off the excess cement with a clean rag.

The biggest reason people don’t like to use this type of sink is it doesn’t offer any type of storage area.   First off, they are mounted in two ways. The more expensive ones are hung in the manner of wall-hung sinks. But the pedestal sinks have the structure built into it so it can do most of the bearing on it’s own.  But for those of you that do like the way it looks here is how you would install a pedestal sink:

Step1: Install 2 x 4 blocking between the wall studs, behind the area where you want the sink. Make sure you cover the wall with “water-resistant” drywall.

Step2: Make sure you set the basin and pedestal in the position you want and brace it with 2 x 4′s.  Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the base of the pedestal on the floor.  Also, make sure you mark your reference points on the wall and the floor through the mounting holes that are in the back of the sink and bottom of the pedestal.

Step3: Put the basin and pedestal to the side.  Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor where you marked your reference holes then reposition the pedestal.  Now anchor the pedestal to the floor with lag screws.

Step4: Attach the faucet, then set the sink on the pedestal. Make sure the holes in the back of the sink line up with the pilot holes you drilled in the wall, then put lag screws and washers into the wall brace with a ratchet wrench. Make sure not to overtighten the screws.

Final Step

Step5: Time to hook up the drain and add fittings. Don’t forget to caulk between the back of the sink and the wall when you are done with all of the installation.

Now that concludes includes our lesson for the day. Make sure to check with us daily for all of your do-it-yourself needs. Happy installing!!!!