Staining brick during masonry projects is a common practice among professional contractors. They usually only do this to individual bricks to make them match the others in a batch. This is sometimes required because it is difficult to get absolute consistency from one batch of manufactured bricks to the next. Staining brick already in place as part of a wall is more difficult and time consuming than painting, but the results are more elegant. The stains used are proprietary in nature and are brick specific. Consult a brick supplier when considering stain as part of masonry repair.

DIY Repair or Professional Help

A local brick supplier can recommend a base brick that comes close to one used for your home. If the brick used in your siding is still manufactured, they might be able to order you a very close match. They can also suggest a good stain product and a professional who knows how to apply it properly. Having a professional do the job for you and ensure that it looks right might be especially important for highly visible areas of the exterior facade of your home. You can perform the job yourself if there are only a few bricks that need to be stained to match the rest of the wall. If there is a large area that needs to be stained, this is more difficult. The masking required to protect the mortar can be very time consuming.

Wood and composite siding must generally be repainted or given a touch up every few years. Applying more than one layer of paint is usually a good idea. The first coat is more of an insulating layer, while the second is for resisting wear and tear. Some home improvement experts recommend that the primer, sealer and first layer of paint be brushed on. The finish coat can be sprayed.

Using a Brush

A brush allows the primer and paint to be thoroughly worked into the surface of the siding. This is a necessity for long-term durability. The problem with brush application is that the appearance of the paint can look uneven unless extreme care is taken. This greatly increases the amount of time necessary to do the job properly.

It is important not to overload the paint brush. Instead, it should be loaded lightly with paint at the tip of the brush hairs. The handle of the paintbrush should be held gently as if it were a pencil or pen. Most of the handle should be sticking up through the space in between the thumb and forefinger. Holding and working the paint brush like a writing instrument allows far greater control and creates less spillage.

Using a Spray Gun

Spray painting with an air compressor and nozzle is much faster than painting by hand. If this application mode is used for all coats, care must be taken to cover the siding’s surface completely. When done properly, the surface tends to dry evenly. A spray paint finish coat can make the entire paint job look much more professional.

Spraying should be done in a back and forth motion that overlaps portions already covered. Even motion must be maintained and should not be too slow. Too much paint applied in any one location will cause dripping. Because droplets are sprayed into the air, tiny paint particles can easily be breathed in. It’s best to wear a protective mask and protective clothing when spray painting. Overspray is likely with this method, so any areas that need to remain paint-free should be draped or masked.

Painting a brick house is not a project that should be done on a whim. It is a large undertaking that commits you to continued exterior maintenance throughout the lifespan of the house. Once you coat brick siding, you cannot go back and remove the paint unless you replace the affected masonry or use expensive sandblasters. Regardless, you are committed to a totally new look.

Prepare The Surface

Preparing the exterior brick surface is an extensive task. It includes the following: cleaning, repairing (includes sealing & caulking around windows), and priming. Removal of stains can be done with a spray washer at about 1,500 to 2,000 psi. Be careful not to damage any of the mortar or you will have more repair work to do. A stiff brush can sometimes help to remove debris and stains. The brick surface must be ultra clean for the primer to adhere properly.

Primer

After a thorough cleaning, use primer on any stained or repaired areas first. These spots may require a second coat after you’ve have primed the rest of the home’s exterior. Fast drying 100% acrylic primers are recommended.

Paint

Actually painting brick can be difficult. All the bumps, grooves and pits that are part of the natural surface of brick can impede the application of a consistent coat. While a paintbrush can be used, it requires more effort on brick than it would when painting a smooth surface. For this reason, painting with a compressor and a spray nozzle is recommended.

The versatility of fast-growing bamboo plants is just amazing. As a truly renewable resource, this woody substance is considered eco-friendly. Building materials made from high quality bamboo are strong and weather resistant. Entire homes have been built in some parts of the world using nothing but bamboo. Given these facts, it’s not surprising to hear that there is such a thing as bamboo siding. In modern construction, it is rare to see a whole home veneered with bamboo siding. More often, it is used for decorative purposes to accent parts of the home with a tropical feel.

Real Bamboo

Bamboo can be carefully processed to simulate hardwood flooring and real wood siding. The material must be specially treated with several chemicals and sealed with polyurethane before it can be used as a reliable siding material. It’s often sold in prefabricated interlocking panels for easy installation. Not all authentic bamboo products are created equal. Bamboo harvested too early in its life cycle is generally substandard and easily damaged. In contrast, bamboo harvested from mature stock tends to be extremely durable. If you can dent the material with your thumbnail, it is poor quality and shouldn’t be used for interior or exterior home improvement projects.

Faux Bamboo

Some of the bamboo siding on the market is not really bamboo at all. Also, not all imitation bamboo is the same. The cheap stuff can be less expensive than real bamboo, but is not nearly as durable. On the other hand, high quality faux bamboo is made entirely from a polyurethane veneer and is artfully sculpted to look like the real thing. The accurate color and textural details make this product difficult to distinguish from actual bamboo even on close inspection. It has to be custom made which adds to the price, but it is actually tougher than bamboo. It can better withstand heat, moisture, cold, and sunlight without ever cracking or fading. Polyurethane is also lightweight. Faux bamboo siding also comes in interlocking panels for quick and easy installation for a DIY project.

Technically it’s not a good idea to paint vinyl siding. However, if you move into a house and the one thing you can’t stand is the color of the vinyl (and you can’t afford new siding) you might choose to paint it anyway. Once painted, vinyl siding is no longer maintenance free. It may need repainting in about ten years. Ordinary exterior paint simply won’t work for this job. An exterior latex paint that has a mixture of urethane and acrylic resins is a better option. These special paints were recently developed specifically to adhere to vinyl siding.

Vinyl tends to expand and contract a great deal over a range of temperatures. Alternating periods of sunlight and darkness quickly cause the bond between regular paint and the surface of the vinyl to fail. A successful coat of paint must tolerate these changes without peeling or cracking. One additional way to minimize this problem is to use a shade of paint that is as light as or slightly lighter than the existing vinyl. In other words, try to match the degree of darkness of the color as closely as possible (even when using an entirely new color scheme).

Prep and Paint Tips

The best paint bonds are created on a clean and dry surface. Use a sponge and soapy water to physically wipe away any dirt and residue from the vinyl. Do not use a pressure washer. These washers will soak the area behind the vinyl and cause problems later. They also do not remove dirt as well as advertised. There simply is no substitute for a little bit of hard work in preparing the surface by hand.

Bleach based on oxygen release (such as Oxy-Boost) can be used to get rid of mold or mildew on any existing surface to be painted. This shouldn’t hurt the siding or any surrounding vegetation. Do not use chlorine based bleach. Let the surface dry completely before painting. Apply two coats for best results.

Common tree species used for residential siding include cedar, pine, spruce, redwood, cypress, and Douglas firs. Sometimes plywood is also used. The wood is graded for quality. Clear heartwood is considered the premium wood siding material. Below that, lesser grades include A Clear, B Clear, Select Knotty, Quality Knotty, Proprietary, and Standard. Each type of wood can be used to make various styles of siding.

Clapboard – These are long rectangular boards that are squared off. They are installed horizontally in an overlapping manner. Clapboard is one of the oldest types of wood siding. You see it on many historic homes.

Bevel – Beveled siding is installed horizontally much like clapboard. The major difference is that one edge is thinner than the other on the opposite side. It’s sort of like a wedge shaped clapboard and is just a modern version of that time-honored design. One face of each board is generally saw-textured. On some products both sides are textured.

Wood Plank – Wood plank is installed vertically and can come in a variety of styles and shapes. Some of these include board on board, channel-groove, or tongue and groove.

Shingles & Shakes – Wood shingle siding is very similar to roofing shingles except these are installed over the sides of the building. Red cedar is a favorite material for shake siding. The shingles are wedge shaped. Installation is done with a nail gun and the shingles overlap vertically. Shakes are basically the same, except they are much thicker than shingles.

Wood Composite – Compressed mixtures of glue, wood chips and other types of debris are used to make sturdy boards. In some respects a composite is similar to plywood, except it does not have a nice wood finish. This material tends to be far less expensive than any other kind. It can be cut to look like any type of traditional siding.

Termite damage is more common than most people think. Often, infestations go undetected until heavy damage has already occurred. It is important to inspect your home perimeter regularly for castings and other evidence of termites. The best protection is prevention. This may include laying down ‘termiticides’ prior to pouring the foundation of a new home.

Any wood attached to the house should be at least 6 inches from the soil (18” is ideal). Termites are attracted to wet environments near wood, so proper drainage is a priority. Reduce moisture accumulation from around the foundation and within crawl spaces. Wood siding should be painted every 2 to 5 years to maintain a barrier against these insects.

Act Quickly

Homeowner’s insurance generally will not cover termite damage, so you are on your own if an infestation occurs. If you suspect any wood siding damage is the result of termites, consult professional pest control immediately. Don’t wait. The problem will quickly get worse and serious structural damage may be the result of procrastination. It is also important to note that termite damage can occur no matter what preventive steps you have taken.

First, get rid of the cause of the damage through pest control. Then, concentrate on fixing the actual damage.  You can do small jobs yourself, but large projects beyond the replacement of a few boards will require professional help. The true extent of the damage may not be discovered until the obviously deteriorated wood siding is removed. A close inspection around and underneath the work area should be done to identify hidden defects that could pave the way for further damage from the elements.

Soffits are the sections of siding that line the underside of your roof overhang. This part of your wood siding  may be suffering from neglect and wear. Why does this area pose such a problem?

First, it is kind of difficult to work on. You have to climb up a ladder and lean back in an awkward position to install these pieces. Soffits should really be painted before they are installed – especially any end seams where moisture can get in. Of course, this is a step that often gets skipped when a harried construction crew is just trying to get the job done. When the soffits are painted after installation, there may be spots that are missed. That’s not something that is apparent unless you are looking for it; but it can cause real problems with weathering.

Second, the soffits are very close to the gutter system. Anytime your gutters get clogged and overflow (or if they leak), water can seep out along the fascia. Since water has a high level of surface tension, it can creep from the fascia onto the soffits. Again, this damage is easy to miss and often goes unrepaired for many years.

Repair & Replacement

Damaged soffit sections can be replaced just like any other part of your siding. You can use a Phillips head screwdriver to poke the soffit boards to determine which areas are rotten. You may need to remove the fascia (trim) so you can rip out the damaged soffit section. Cut your new soffit section to the correct length; paint and prime the entire board or use a sealer. Cover all the surfaces including the edges. Nail the new section in place along the eave line. You can use a silicone caulk intended for outdoor use to help seal any gaps where two edges meet. Reattach the fascia, and you are done.

If you are having your home’s old wooden siding replaced with vinyl, the question of what to do about the fascia and soffits is bound to come up. The fascia is the trim that is located just under the edge of the roof and caps the ends of the rafters. It can be just plain lengths of wood or it can be ornate. The gutters are often attached directly to the fascia. The soffits cover the area on the underside of the eave overhang. They usually contain vents to the attic and are designed to keep birds and other animals from entering the attic space.

These components are often weather damaged and in need of repair and a fresh coat of paint. Since they are in close contact with the gutter system, any leaks or overflowing water can cause extensive damage. All maintenance work required in these areas should be done before the new siding is installed. Of course, this is a lot of work and not something many homeowners look forward to doing.

Fortunately, siding installation companies offer vinyl versions of these critical components. If the contractor can replace all the exterior wood with vinyl, this eliminates the need for constant maintenance. Unlike wood, vinyl doesn’t rot away, mold, or get attacked by insects. Of course, if your original quote did not include the soffits and fascia, you may not be happy with the increase in the total price. This is one reason to always get an all inclusive quote up front so there are no surprises later.

Many homeowners who are interested in stone siding but don’t want to pay full price end up purchasing faux products to achieve the desired look. However, going with a molded cement or composite product is not the only option. There are plenty of quarries that cut all types of stone into thin veneer pieces for easy installation. Stone veneer is much lighter than stone that is cut at standard thickness. Since you are paying for less material, the pricing is also more affordable.

The visual and tactile effect of natural stone veneer is undetectable from that of full thickness stone. Most new homes aren’t built with actual stone walls – the rock is added as a layer of siding over a wood frame, insulation, and drywall. So, it makes sense to go with a thin layer of stone siding. All you will see is the exterior surface anyway.

Natural stone veneer siding is available in many materials including:

• Limestone
• Sandstone
• Granite

The stones will vary in color depending on what quarry they come from. Many colors are often mixed in a single veneer to create a mosaic effect. The stones are cut in rectangles, squares, or non-geometric shapes of different sizes and fitted together like a jigsaw puzzle. Different sealers or grout may be used to add more visual interest to the veneer. As a rule, these products are low maintenance and stand up well to the elements. Some thin stone veneer distributors even offer a lifetime warranty on their products.

HardiePlank is one of the most recognized names in the fiber cement siding industry. Their products are reportedly installed on over 4 million homes in the U.S. While HardiePlank is somewhat more expensive than vinyl, it is comparable in price to hardboard siding and less costly than brick or synthetic stucco. The company advertises that it carries siding that is suitable for all climates, but the handling requirements and product specifications do vary by zone.

A 30 year warranty is offered for the HardiePlank lap siding. However, this warranty can be voided by improper installation. This is one of the main drawbacks of using fiber cement siding – improper handling by inexperienced contractors is a fairly common complaint.

Keeping the product dry prior to and during installation is very important. So is making sure the boards are fully supported during transportation so they don’t bend and crack. Some homeowners report having their warranty voided because the delivery company unloaded the siding from the pallet onto their property. The pallet should be left in place and the planks removed one by one across the top (not vertically down each stack) to prevent damage.

Using the correct equipment for cutting and following the manufacturer’s instructions for nailing are important steps in ensuring satisfactory performance. Proper safety precautions must also be followed to prevent inhalation of cement fiber dust when power tools are used. The general view seems to be that this product is:

• Fragile and very heavy – making handling a challenge
• Difficult to cut without specialized equipment
• Not a job for a crew that lacks skill and experience with putting up HardiePlank
• Easy to paint, resistant to weathering, long lasting, and well worth the money if installed correctly

KlipTech™, the manufacturer of EcoClad siding, originally got its start in the skateboard ramp building industry before moving on to creating a green countertop material called PaperStone. After this, the company “went vertical” with the EcoClad product for commercial and residential buildings. This durable and eco-friendly cladding is made of post-consumer recycled wood and paper fiber mixed with bamboo (a readily renewable plant source).

Unlike vinyl, which contains ethylene derived from crude oil, EcoClad contains no petroleum products. It also gives off no VOCs (volatile organic compounds). Instead, the fibers are bound together with a resin that is water based. This means it does not off gas toxic fumes as it cures. The siding is currently produced in a number of natural-looking wood grain designs and solid colors. This bamboo/recycled wood siding is resistant to moisture, fire, impact damage, and microbe growth.

KlipTech currently warrants its products to be free from defects for a period of 10 years. This covers only the siding itself, so make sure you get a separate warranty from your contractor to cover any damage or errors during installation. The company currently doesn’t offer a list of preferred installers. This means it’s may be up to customers to locate a dealer who has experience working with the EcoClad product. The siding can be purchased directly from the manufacturer at this time.