Siding installation is often touted as a DIY job. But without proper tools, materials, and information, there is a high likelihood that the average homeowner will make a few mistakes. Some errors are evident (like crooked or sagging panels). However, others are hidden and will only become evident over time. By then, a lot of damage may have occurred. Here are 3 common mistakes the amateur siding installer tends to make.

Measuring Too Perfectly

Both vinyl and aluminum siding products expand in hot weather. This means there has to be a little room left for the material to increase in size. Otherwise, the siding may buckle where it presses into the wooden frame of a door or window.

Pounding Too Hard

It can be tempting to nail siding down as hard as you can. However, since the material expands and contracts it needs to have a little wiggle room. Leaving a tiny gap between the nail head and the aluminum or vinyl permits enough movement to protect the integrity of the siding.

Choosing Cheap Materials

The underlayment for siding needs to be high quality. Furring strips over a foam board is one combination that some siding installers recommend to make the job easier. The specific materials used are very important. For example, using moisture permeable insulation with vinyl siding is not a good plan. It may trap and hold moisture under the siding and permit mold to colonize the interior of the home.

Stucco siding is beautiful in its own right. It also makes the perfect backdrop for artistic murals of all kinds. Some can be installed concurrently with the siding, others can be added after the stucco has dried. Tasteful murals that face the street can add curb appeal. Those in the back of the house near outdoor living areas can be even more expressive and imaginative. Here are just a few ideas for ways to make your house stand out as a work of art.

Sculpted Scenes

Adding texture to stucco siding is a typical final step. However, this texture doesn’t have to look random. The siding mixture can be stamped with a design that will show up in subtle relief whenever the sun strikes the wall at the correct angle. Scroll work, Aztec, or Classic designs can all be incorporated into a stucco surface with the right mold. Patterns can also be created by hand if you work quickly enough.

Tile Designs

Tile mosaics can be inset directly into the stucco material while it is wet or applied with a strong adhesive after it is dried. This is an ideal approach for matching a wall design to one featured on a patio or in a pool. The colorful glass or ceramic mural tiles can be used for geometric patterns or to create realistic depictions of various plants or animals.

Painted Murals

Stucco siding is a great canvas for a painted outdoor mural. This decorative effect can be applied to the home at any time. Trompe l’oeil (eye fooling) images can give the illusion of more space by creating “windows” that overlook a spacious courtyard or a scenic vista. Select paints that are intended for outdoor use so the mural will remain vibrant and attractive for many years.

Prior to the 1978 federal ban on the use of lead paint in residential buildings, many homes had their wood or brick siding coated in this toxic substance. Lead is a very efficient material for providing opaque coverage. This means it took only a thin layer of the paint to effectively coat siding well enough that the original surface color didn’t show through. This made it cheaper to use than other paints that didn’t provide the same level of coverage. Today, titanium is added to paints to achieve the same effect without the hazardous side effects of lead.

Of course, lead was still used well into the 1900s, so there are plenty of older homes that pose a problem for residents and communities. As the paint deteriorates, falling flakes can accumulate on window sills and other areas where they may drift into the interior living space. Lead will also contaminate the soil around the foundation of the home. This means leaving old lead paint exposed to the elements is not a viable solution.

Get Expert Help

The process of stripping off lead paint to refinish the underlying siding can release dangerous levels of lead-laden dust into the air. Special precautions must be taken in any kind of home improvement project involving sanding, cutting, drilling, or otherwise disturbing a lead painted surface. Having an environmental evaluation and cost analysis carried out by a certified abatement specialist is critical.

Such a professional can determine the best approach for refinishing siding. This may involve painting over the existing lead contaminated surface to seal it in place. Or, wet sanding techniques may be used in conjunction with personal protective equipment to remove the old paint while preventing contamination of the air, soil, and water in the surrounding area.

If you are investigating the pros and cons of aluminum versus vinyl siding for your home, consider this – you may get the best of both worlds by choosing vinyl coated aluminum. The aluminum is resistant to corrosion. When installed properly with sufficient flashing, it offers decent protection against moisture penetration.

However, there are problems with traditional aluminum siding. The original factory applied paint tends to become chalky with age. It also scratches off easily exposing the underlying metal to view. Aluminum is also highly susceptible to denting. This makes repairs and repainting an ongoing concern.

Adding a layer of vinyl to the aluminum can strengthen it slightly and reduce its tendency toward denting. Also, if the material does get scratched it won’t be as noticeable since the vinyl coating is thicker than enamel. The vinyl-clad aluminum won’t need to be painted and it will tend to retain a new appearance over the years if you choose a finish that is resistant to UV fading.

Potential Issues

It is possible to paint a vinyl surface, but you would need to apply a de-glosser first. Even then, there may be adhesion problems. If possible, install a siding color you will be happy with for a long time so repainting is unnecessary from an aesthetic standpoint. Vinyl clad aluminum siding is on the expensive side compared to aluminum or vinyl alone, so reducing your ongoing costs makes sense for realizing a faster return on your investment.

When residential aluminum siding was first invented in 1947, it represented a giant leap forward in ease of maintenance for the average homeowner. Before that point, a wooden façade was the most common option. The downside of using wood was the constant maintenance required to keep it in good repair. Moisture could cause the siding to swell and contract making nails come loose. Infestation with termites and other bugs was common, paint peeled and flaked, and rot was a constant threat.

Aluminum changed all this. It is impervious to insects and can’t be damaged by water. However, this type of siding isn’t completely maintenance free. Besides the occasional dent repair, homeowners must repaint their siding after it has been in service 20+ years. The initial paint job will have faded and/or become chalky by this point. It may even be worn away completely in some places.

Prepping and Painting Aluminum Siding

A good power washing is the best way to clean aluminum siding prior to painting. This gets rid of dirt, bird droppings, tree sap, and other types of gunk. Any dents should be fixed during the prep phase. Gutters should be repaired as well.

After this, a coat of primer must be applied. If the previous coat of paint is chalky, a primer that contains oil may be used to provide better adhesion. When there is bare aluminum showing, latex primers that contain ammonia should be avoided. They may cause bubbling as the ingredients interact with the oxidized metal. It’s a good idea to get a professional opinion when choosing a primer since the results will affect how well the paint goes on.

After the primer has dried, apply high quality latex paint. Invest in the best paint you can afford – it will last longer than cheap products. You can use a roller or brush to apply this final coat; but a pressure sprayer offers the smoothest coverage. It does take a skilled hand to minimize overspray with this equipment. If you aren’t experienced with using a compressor and spray gun, it’s a good idea to leave this job to a professional

Do you have dents in your aluminum siding? This type of damage can happen at any time – even with brand new siding. To keep your home looking new longer, fix damaged areas as soon as you notice them. Check your siding after any extreme weather event such as hail or windstorms that may have driven objects into your siding at high speed.

Here’s a quick step by step guide to fixing indentations in your aluminum siding:

Use a power drill with a 1/8” bit to create a hole near the center of the dent. For large dents, you may need to make multiple holes.

Thread a machine screw into the drilled hole. It should be a snug fit. Leave 1/2” of the screw shaft and the head sticking out.

Grip the screw with a pair of pliers and pull in a smooth, firm motion. This should pop the dent out. Remove the screw completely.

Use an automotive putty to fill in the screw hole and level out any remaining dip in the aluminum. Let it dry completely. This step may take more than one application – it’s better to put in too little than too much at one time.

Sand the putty so it is completely even with the surface of the siding. Prime the repaired area and allow it to dry again.

Apply two coats of paint, allowing it to dry between applications. Now, the formerly dented patch will match the rest of the aluminum siding on your home.

You know that horizontal stripes aren’t usually flattering as a fashion statement. They make you look fatter than you really are. These lines can do the same thing to your home. Traditional beveled siding wraps your home in overlapping horizontal layers that can make the entire building look short and squat.

What if you want a façade that draws the eye upward toward lovely scalloped trim or a specialty roof? In that case, you might choose vertical siding. You can purchase this style of exterior in vinyl, cedar, or fiber cement varieties; so there is a product for every budget.

Manmade

Board and batten style vertical siding is available in cement fiber sections from manufacturers like HardiePanel. This look features wide flat panels (boards) interrupted by, thin raised strips of trim (battens) at regular intervals. Fiber cement can be pre-coated at the factory with a baked on finish or painted on-site. This material is very durable and resistant to wind, hail, and sun.

Vinyl siding offers even more vertical design options with fancy beaded and triple batten patterns. It come in preselected colors and doesn’t have to be painted. This option is cost effective from a maintenance standpoint. Just hose it down a couple of times a year and check the caulking around joints.

Natural

Red cedar is kiln dried in preparation for use outdoors. This pre-shrinks it by removing moisture so that it won’t contract as much after installation. Lapped, tongue and groove, board and batten, and other joining methods can be used for vertical installation to add visual interest.

Cedar that is properly primed and painted is resistant to weathering and can last for several decades with proper maintenance. If you select this wood, install a different façade material for the bottom 6”. Cedar that comes into contact with the soil is prone to decay.

Stucco siding is fairly resistant to stains from fungus, rot, and exposure to the weather. However, staining and discoloration may still occur. The complexity of the removal process depends on what kind of stain you are dealing with. The age of the stain and whether it has set also play a part. Because of this, you should always address discoloration as soon as you notice it.

Stained Stucco Siding

What to Use

There are many products that purportedly work to remove stains on stucco. However, the preferred method generally includes the use of a dilute solution of the following:

1 cup of TSP (trisodium phosphate)

1 quart of bleach

1 gallon of water

Apply the solution with a pump sprayer for large areas or just pour it on for smaller stains. Rigid brushes could potentially damage some stucco surfaces. Always use a soft bristled brush for scrubbing.

For the rinsing stage, use a fairly gentle spray of water from a garden hose. If you decide to use a high pressured sprayer, don’t exceed a PSI of 1500. The durability of stucco varies from one manufacturer to the next, so don’t assume that yours will stand up to pressurized spraying.

Additional Information

Protect the surrounding ground from chemicals whenever possible. Soil may not sustain plants for several years after being soaked with TSP. Vegetation may be harmed or killed by exposure to this solution.

Wear protective equipment to keep the stain remover from coming into contact with your skin or eyes.

Other potential cleaning products include muriatic acid (another name for hydrochloric acid), CLR, stone wash, Jomax, lime wash and a variety of specially designed stucco wash. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and safety precautions when using any of these products. Light sand blasting of especially difficult stains should only be used a last resort.

If you are replacing siding on your home, there are a number of factors to consider. You will want to balance durability, functionality and practicality with cost for this project. Fiber cement siding is a viable option. It is made from sand, cement, and cellulose fiber.

Pros

Fiber cement siding is available in many different textures and sizes to imitate other types of home exterior materials. It can come in planks or sheets that look similar to wood or stucco. It is more fire resistant than most other siding products. It requires very little maintenance, and it will not rot or corrode.

Many manufacturers offer a 50 year warranty on fiber cement siding (with proper installation). Usually, only one coat of acrylic paint is required for full coverage over this surface. You can expect the paint to last at least 10-15 years.

Cons

Although the manufacturers provide installation and handling instructions, working with this material requires intermediate to advanced skill level. The pieces can be difficult to maneuver because of their extreme weight. Special saw blades are needed to cut the siding sections to the correct size.

The dust created by cutting through the siding can be hazardous if inhaled. Air filtration devices may be required for optimal safety and health. Dust collecting power tools are recommended. If you are uncomfortable with the idea of working with this material yourself, hire a qualified contractor.

Do you love the thought of having lovely green vines growing over the siding on your home? Your romantic ideas about living in a quaint, ivy covered cottage can be shattered when you learn the truth about the damage it can cause. Heavy plant growth provides an ideal environment for moisture to collect and cause permanent staining on your siding.

Permeable surfaces like brick and stucco offer a foothold for the root-like tendrils of vines. These don’t just cling to the surface, they work their way into the façade materials – especially mortar. As the tendrils grow and expand, they can cause these types of siding to deteriorate. Ivy can also work its runners between vinyl and wood siding panels, gradually separating them.

Ivy Removal

If you already have ivy growing on your siding, removing it can be difficult. The suckers cling tenaciously to any surface. Start by cutting all the vines off where they root into the ground. Allow several weeks for the plants to die back. Keep checking these roots since the ivy will try to send runners back down to the soil to re-root.

Pull off as much of the vines as you can. This will expose the dense network of runners and sucker pads still clinging to your siding. Power washing can remove some of these, but be prepared to do some heavy duty scrubbing by hand too.

Refinishing Your Siding

Sand and repaint wood siding as a final step. You may be able to scrub stains off vinyl siding using a weak bleach solution. Just check for color fastness in a non-conspicuous area first. Brick will probably require mortar repairs. Stucco may need to be patched and painted.

Was the brick siding on your house painted over by the previous owner? Very occasionally, this improves the look of the home. Usually, it turns out to be a regrettable mistake. If you want to remove paint from the façade of your home, you need to do this without causing additional damage to the underlying surface. Here are some Dos and Don’ts.

Blast Off

Sand blasting may seem like a quick and efficient way to strip paint. However, this technique can permanently damage brick by, well, blasting it to pieces. Save your sandblaster for taking rust off of metal. You need to be gentler with your brick siding.

Power Up

A power washer poses the same problems as a sand blaster but adds a new twist. The pressurized stream of water can work its way into the pores of the brick. This will erode your siding faster than you think.

Strip It Down

Chemical stripping agents are your best bet for removing paint. That doesn’t mean every formula is created equal. Some are ineffective while others are corrosive. Test a small area before applying a treatment to an entire wall.

Start by washing down the siding with a sprayer on a regular garden hose. Next, apply the paint-dissolving chemical. For latex, you can use Smart Strip or Peel Away 7. Spray again to remove the paint after the stripping agent has softened it up. Use a brush with very stiff bristles to scrub any remaining residue off the bricks.

Wood siding is popular with homeowners because of its low initial cost for materials and installation. However, many consumers end up being disappointed at how quickly this material degrades. This often happens because the siding was not installed with an eye toward length of service. A wood exterior can actually last for several decades if it is properly installed and maintained.

There are several things you can do during the installation process to significantly increase the lifespan of your wood façade. Keeping moisture out is the #1 challenge. Prime and paint each piece of siding (including the cut edges) before nailing them to your house. This ensures the full surface is more resistant to water – not just the part you can see.

Ongoing Maintenance

Check caulking, flashing, and nailed areas a couple of times per year for signs of deterioration. Basically, any area where bare wood might exposed to moisture or insects can pose a problem. Keep tree branches pruned away from the sides of your house as well as the roof. Even small twigs can tear up wood siding when the wind blows them against your home.

Unlike vinyl, wood siding has to be repainted regularly. That could mean every 4-5 years depending on how much wear and tear the weather causes in your area. Choose a high quality exterior paint that is designed for the type of wood you have installed. Clean your siding and allow it to dry before you apply new paint. If the former coat is glossy, use sandpaper to add some texture. This will help the fresh coat of paint adhere properly.