Only compression valves have valve seats. When repairing a compression valve, check to see if the valve seats need to be resurfaced. You will need to stick your finger down into the faucet body to feel if the valve seat is rough. If it is rough it will quickly damage a washer. You should either replace it or resurface the valve seat at the same time you are replacing the faucet washer.

Step1: TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY AND DISASSEMBLE THE FAUCET VALVE

Lower the sink stopper and cover it with a cloth to prevent loose parts from falling into the drain. Pry off the handle cap with a screwdriver. Remove the valve. Now loosen the compression valve with water-pump pliers and remove it. Make sure you keep any and all washers or O-rings with the valve and set them aside.

Step2: BACK OUT THE SEAT

Use a seat wrench to remove the valve seat. Now select an end that fits snugly into the seat. Insert the end of the wrench into the seat and tap the top to seat if firmly. The valve seat may be stuck, so the first turn should be quick and firm to release it without stripping the threads. When you have it loose, turn the wrench until you can remove the screw and take the seat out. You will need to take the old seat with you when you go to buy a new one. That way you will get the right one.

Step3: REPLACE THE SEAT

Install the new seat into the faucet. Apply pipe dope to the seat threads to seal them; insert the end of the seat wrench into the seat and set the seat in place. Now, screw the valve into place and assemble the compression valve, faucet handle, and handle cap. When you turn the water supply on make sure you go slow and check for leaks.

Shutoff valves let you turn on and off the water near your fixtures so you don’t have to shut off the water to the entire house to make repairs. They attach in different ways: by soldering, threading, or compression fittings. Compression fittings are the easiest to install and don’t require pipe dope, or compound. A metal sleeve makes the fitting watertight, as long as you install it right. Make sure you turn the water off before you start working. You will need to open the faucet you are working on and another one somewhere below it in the house so you can drain all the water out of  it.

Step1: DISCONNECT THE SUPPLY PIPE

Before you start, turn off the main water supply to the house. Unscrew the supply pipe at the wall. You will need to cut it with a mini-pipe tubing cutter or a mini-hacksaw if it is solder ti the wall. Make sure you are careful when cutting the tube. If it is out of round, the compression fitting will leak. Leave enough room between the escutcheon plate and the cut to install the fitting. Deburr the pipe with an emery cloth. Now slide the compression nut over the supply pipe as far back as you can.

Step2: PLACE THE COMPRESSION RING OVER THE END OF THE SUPPLY PIPE

The end should completely cover the end of the supply pipe. Thread the compression valve into the compression nut. The valve should slide snugly over the ring. Hand tighten the nut. If it doesn’t turn easily, add a tiny drop of oil to the threads. Don’t use pipe compound; the fitting doesn’t require it, and it can make the fitting leak.

Step3: TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION VALVE TO THE NUT BUT DON’T OVER TIGHTEN IT

You will need one wrench to hold the back of the valve and keep it square and another to turn the nut. Follow the same procedure you used to install the valve to attach the supply lines. Only turn the water on for a second and let it flow into a bucket to flush the lines before installing the fixtures.

The most common home plumbing problem is a leaky faucet. The leaks happen when the washers, O-rings, or seals inside the faucet get dirty or worn out. It’s not hard to fix a leak, but the techniques vary depending on the type of faucet you have. Determine the faucet design and the  replacement parts before you begin your work.

There are four basic designs: ball-type, cartridge, disc, and compression. Many can be identified easily just by their outer appearance, but there are some that you have to take apart before it can recognized.

Many double-handled faucets use the compression design. From time to time you have to replace the washers or seals in the compression faucets.  These are very easy to make, and the replacement parts are not expensive.

The ball-type, cartridge, and disc faucets are known as washerless faucets.  Many of the washerless faucets have a single handle, but some do have two handles.  These faucets will make less trouble for you than the compression faucets will, and they are designed for quick repair.

Make sure the replacement parts match the original parts before you install them. The replacement parts for the more popular washerless faucets are identified by their brand name and model number. Bring the worn parts with you when you go to the store to get ones. It will help you identify the parts you need.

If you are just replacing the sink and not the countertops, you need to make sure that the new sink is the same size or larger. Remove all old silicone caulk residue with either acetone or denatured alcohol. If you don’t remove the old stuff the new stuff won’t stick.

You will need:

caulk gun, spud wrench, screwdriver, sink, sink frame, plumber’s putty or silicone caulk, mounting clips, jigsaw, pen or pencil

Ok, let’s get started!!!

Step1. Turn the sink upset down and trace around the edges so you have a reference for making the sink cutout cutting lines, they will be parallel to the outlines, but 1″ inside of them to create a 1″ ledge.

Step2. Drill a starter hole and cut out the opening with a jigsaw. Cut right next to the line. The opening doesn’t have to be perfect because the sink’s flange fits over the cutout.

Step3. Do your best to attach as much of the plumbing as you can before you set the sink. It’s much easier to do it now then after it is installed.

Step4. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the edges of the sink opening. Since the sink flange won’t be flat, try and apply the caulk in the area that will touch the flange.

Step5. Insert the sink. Do your best to get the sink centered right away so the caulk doesn’t get disturbed because that can break the seal around it.

Now that does it. I hope this has been a helpful tool. Have fun installing!!!